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Steering wobble, head bearings

82K views 197 replies 55 participants last post by  cadd  
#1 · (Edited)
So, steering head came loose at around 1000 miles. I dove in to see what was up. Loose ball bearings. Really? 2013, a bike that defines your company to thousands of riders entering the sport and this is what you do Kawasaki? Shame on you!

Not soon after I noticed a decel wobble in the front with no hands on the bars at 50-40 MPH. Great, had the same thing on 2 different ZZR1200s. Time to research. Turns out many times this wobble is caused by the poor contact points of ball bearings and the steering stem basically deflecting along those points from top to bottom races.

I reset the tension a few times and added some Bel-Ray WP grease to no avail. I "suffered" with these bearings and the sloppiness for almost 1000 more miles and it drove me nuts!

All Balls sells a kit for the 250 so I ordered one up and dropped it in today.

Wobble is gone, steering precision is WAY up!!!

Do this bearing replacement. It makes the bike feel so much more stable and smooth, no comparison to stock. Absolutely excellent mod.

Under $40 and 2 hours of slow paced wrenching start to finish.
 
#195 ·
I went to my shop that I purchased the bike from the issues I had they acted like I was being to picky. not enough oil ; its ok. kickstand was loose; regrease it. wobble slowing from 50 down to 40; they said, do take my hands off the bars. mirror an the left I have to reposition it when I get on bike ; he rolled his eyes. I'am a mechanic that is responsible for a lot of different types of vehicles, I have never had been exposed to this poor of costumer service before. when I call Kawasaki and told them about there dealership, there response was to take it to a dealership.
 
#8 ·
Kawasaki uses the same bearings as Huffy right??

Whats involved for the install? Do you need a front stand for the bike?

You got your kit from ebay right?? I plan on hainvg the 300 for a LONG time.. So this may be a nice cheap mod for me..

I don't think even Huffy would use this crap anymore!

You need to lift the bike from under the engine as the entire front triple must come off. I use a floor jack with a piece of wood under the exhaust and the sidestand.

A hammer and drift to knock out the old races, a big socket + extension to tap in the new ones or a race press kit, a slow hand to tap on the lower stem bearing or a press is nice. Pretty basic wrenching, oh, and waterproof grease to pack them full.

Setting the tension is a feel you develop, you want no looseness but not too tight to be binding. I usually try to bind them slightly then just back off but the kawi tension nut sucks and I didn't have a good tool to torque it so I went in on it and just made sure the steering didn't bind. I'll recheck it in 500 miles anyway.
 
#5 · (Edited)
#6 ·
Gotta agree with cbz....to this day it still blows our minds that the Manufacturers still put that 70's inspired setup on 21st century bikes. And yeah, we understand their "save a nickel save a million" concept, but another $32 worth of sealed bearings in the stem would make more sense, beit, Kawi, Yami or any of the brands.. And pretty sure no one is going back with the ball/race system they have on it now.

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#9 ·
Of course we do, AB still has them listed for the 250R though..

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#13 ·
They are a direct replacement / upgrade, so no changes should occur in height.

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#16 ·
They told me to keep my hands on the bars with my ZZRs. :mad: New OEM ball bearings would be the same crap and I wouldn't want them anyway so no. Nothing the dealer or Kawi would do would solve this "issue".

No reason to even report it cause like the rubber brake lines, the tires, the shock and the bearings, they were working normally. None were up to the standards I have so they are gone.

I'm still shocked the bike had these bearings, they are what was used in the 1960s and 70s by Japanese builders. Cheap to use but they have no other positive qualities.
 
#20 ·
On the other hand, there is almost nothing on the bike that could not be improved. It's a little like buying a house, then rehabing it. In the end you would have been better off buying a more expensive bike. My Triumph is much faster than my 300, sounds better, better steering, better brakes, suspension, more comfortable seat, smoother-running, better tires, etc. It also sold for $9600. If you did every possible upgrade on the 300, you would still have a 300. I ain't touchin nothin unless it's broke.
 
#21 ·
What you are missing is the light flywheel effect of the 300 allowing much easier manipulation of the machine by the rider. The Ninja 250/300 doesn't feel light because it is, in fact for what it is, it is heavy. It is the lower gyroscopic mass that makes it so easy to flip from full right to full left. You can buy a faster bike but only a supermoto, or a small bore under 500cc 2t will have as light a feel to the handling.
 
#22 ·
You could buy a better off bike, but then what are you going to do.. Rip it apart and still mod everything, because there are ALWAYS aftermarket parts that are better that stock..

Every mod I am doing to my 300 I would do to ANY CC bike I own... So really I am still saving a TON of money.. I would trick out a Geo Metro if I had one.. I would trick out a Ferrari if I had one.. Its just in my blood.. Its not about the money, its about what I like to do as hobbies :)
 
#23 · (Edited)
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#27 ·
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We made it a little bigger.

And RED. :)

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#29 ·
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No Problem.

Glad we could help you guys out.


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#31 ·
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Good Call.

For those considering upgrading their Fork Internals... Wait to install your head bearings, at the same time.

Less Labor.

But, you can still order the bearings Now. :D


Just wait to install them at the same time.


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#32 ·
I wouldn't wait. The front wheel, fender, caliper and fork tubes are actually really easy to pull off. The longest part of the job is removing the old lower bearing and driving in the races. I can have the forks off in my hand in under 20 minutes easy.

Wait if you want but every time you take it apart you get better at it and the bearing alone is worth the trouble.

I have about 100 miles on them now and I am amazed how much better the bike feels in rough pavement and expansion joints or frost heaves. Solid and stable. Turns better too.

Pulling it apart to do the forks is an easy task and you can leave the triple clamps in. You should not have to pull them out for 30k miles if you pack the bearings well.
 
#33 ·
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Good info.

Thanks for the post.


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