no, they are independent brakes.. when the module kicks in it pulses on and off to keep traction.

 

Thanks. Well, I think the Honda C-ABS system (solution ) works more save and better IMO.
http://www.ashonbikes.com/content/honda-c-abs

 

Combined braking is rare in the motorcycle world, very few bikes have this. In theory it sounds great, but when riding a bike sometimes you only want to use the front or the back brake (for instance when trail braking) so this may not be ideal. I'm not saying one is better than the other, but each system has pro's an con's.

 

Yep, you're right but in my opinion combined braking is more "stright" at the moment one need it and the technic decided how balance it. But again it's just my opinion.

 

*brake

 

OP is describing linked braking system.

ABS is where the rotation of the tires is monitored, and if one locks while the other spins, the offending brake is pulsed to allow some rotation. Not sure what happens if both tires lock simultaneously. The ECU must take last known speed into consideration.

 

Yes. Linked braking system ABS vs combined ABS braking system were exactly what I meant ( didn't find the proper names in my previous post- my poor english ). Your inputs here are very interesting but whatever one think I suppose that Honda's combined C-ABS seems to be more innovative and easy ( no two push two independent breaks needed )one IMO. And I dare to claim it will be implement by others companies pretty soon.
@MoFetti How many times did you have a flat on the tires during the ride ? Nothing personal here . I'm just curious.

OT. New Yamaha models to be show today.

 

The linked ABS systems are actually getting phased out as they're older technology from a day when that was the only way to do ABS. Only Honda and I think maybe BMW does the linked system. Also, like I said in my above post, combined brakes used in the ABS system is partially biased. Not fully linked. Using the front brake only engages the rear brake partially. You still have to use the rear brake to get full braking effect.

 

theres some videos in my signature below in tipe for new riders about ABS and how it works

 

There are so many variations of everything, there is no one statement that holds true for all cases. I would hardly take Wikipedia as the final word -- it's a great starting point for further research.

 

Hey 300 guys I have a question for you. I am in the process of swapping a 2014 ninja 300 abs engine into a Z-125. I am not altering any of the wire harness except for the lights and turn signals. I am gearing the smaller wheel to a 32tooth 520pitch sprocket so the speed/gearing ratio will be identical to the stock 300 wheel. My question has to so with the ABS. Does anyone know if the ABS brain receives a speed signal from the ECU? (off the output shaft from the engine) I assume the hydraulic module itself has accelerometers in it, but I need to know if the two are linked. If they are I will have to cnc machine new abs rings that go from the factory 50 slots down to 37 slots so the abs brain knows the actual speed of the bike due to the smaller tire diameter. I assume I'll throw a CEL or fault code if this is the case. If they do not talk I will just leave the factory ones in and let the brain think the bike is traveling faster than actual speed. But that leads to me my last question as to how the brain knows at what speed to stop the pulsing, such as when your stopped at a light the system is not continuing to pulse the calipers. Thanks to anyone who understands this particular system better than I do!!!

 

Hi colleague. I`m swapping ABS unit into Honda Hawk GT 650 (Bros 650)
ABS doesn`t take any signal from ECU or engine - it have even two sets of sensors to measure the speed.And i`m not sure if it has accelerometers on ninja 300 - it`s
simple ABS design, not controlling lean/wheelies at all, it has two speed sensors..
About your wheel size example - for example your wheels total diameter is twice smaller than Ninja 300 , so you if you will put same rings as on it . they reach 20km/h (when ABS , assume, start working) on 10 km/h actually and all way ABS will think you move twice faster then you actually are.
But if you reduce number of slots on ABS rotor two times (as well as wheel size reduced twice) ABS will know actual speed correctly.
So main idea - keep same amount of impulses during movement as it`s generated on Ninja 300, No errors if front/rear impulse amount RATIO is correct , if amount of pulses on front and rear for any reason (number of slots or speed) increases on same multiplier - abs works fine, just thinks you moving faster than you actually are.

PS: Can you share how you wire up ABS unit ?
I`ve wired it , but it does not generate any signal to ABS LED indicator after powering on, and only have power on rear sensor, nothing on front. I`m think unit is broken, so trying figure out how it works on same conditions - without connection to original meter unit etc.