Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forums banner

Gear Guide for Noobs/Rookies

52K views 68 replies 33 participants last post by  Storrm  
#1 · (Edited)
Before you read this. Remember, this list is not exhaustive, and is also a reflection of my own values of not skimping on gear, as well as ATGATT (all the gear, all the time). You should calculate the cost of gear into the bike purchase price. You can spend as little as $400, but if you want the best protection, be prepared to spend at least $800. I myself wear over $1,500 of gear, every time I ride. A typical medical bill, depending on severity, can be $20,000 and up, don't be that guy riding in flip flops and a wifebeater.


Here is a extensive guide on what gear to get, WHY you should wear gear, and where to get your life saving clothing.

Let's start off with the basics. You will want to following pieces of gear:

  1. Full Face Helmet - Don't even question this, full face or say goodbye to your chin. Your noggin' is the most important part of your body, do you want to risk reduced mental capacity or death for a few bucks or a little comfort? All helmets are DOT rated, the price difference comes in the form of comfort, airflow, and noise reduction. Another consideration is the fit of the helmet, any helmet, whether it is DOT or SNELL rated cannot protect your noggin as well if you don't have the right size! Refer to the size chart here. If you are between sizes, go for the next one down, it should break in slightly, and if not, you can always get different cheekpads. A well fitted helmet should not be able to move on your head, both laterally and side to side, and when you talk, your teeth should be rubbing against your cheek! FOR THOSE IN TEXAS AND OTHER STATES THAT DO NOT REQUIRE A HELMET, PLEASE, JUST WEAR ONE. Here are some recommended brands/models:
    • Scorpion EXO
    • HJC
    • Anything Arai or Shoei
    • DO NOT GET A HALF OR 3/4 HELMET. DO NOT GET A HALF OR 3/4 HELMET. Did you get it yet? DO NOT GET A HALF OR 3/4 HELMET. We call half helmets "brain buckets" for a reason.. Take a look at this chart, and think about whether that helmet you are looking at with protect you in those areas.
    Image
  2. Jacket - Leather is best, but textile and mesh are pretty good as well. Make sure the jacket has CE rated armor in both elbows and shoulders. A CE rated back protector is also highly recommended as the foam pad that comes with jackets is completely useless. Another thing about jackets are the fit. If it doesn't fit correctly, it will be less effective in protecting you. Sure, that jacket may be the best deal that's come along in a long time, but buying a XL when you need a M isn't the smartest choice. The armor can move around, and in case you go down, you want them to be in the right place. To determine the right fit of a jacket, put the jacket on, and cross your arms, you should have freedom of movement, but it doesn't be too loose as well. The following brands are all very good:
    • Alpinestars
    • Dainese
    • Fieldsheer
    • Cortech
    • AGV Sport
    • Joe Rocket
    • Spidi
  3. Boots - Always wear a boot that at least covers the ankle bone, work boots work, but don't be that guy with a pair of Converse, please. Lateral ankle protection (prevents ankle from twisting) and calf protection are even better. Remember, $400 for a pair of boots is better than $10,000 for surgery and rehab. They can also last you for a couple years at least, and the higher end models allow resoles so you can wear them even longer. Just don't skimp on boots, your feet are pretty important. These are all full length race style boots, feel free to go for low cut boots, but keep in mind they will not protect as much, nor offer crush protection or lateral ankle protection:
    • Sidi Vertigo, ST, and Vortice
    • Alpinestars SMX Plus and Supertech R
    • Cortech Latigo
    • Teknic Chicane
    • Dainese TRQ
    • Puma 1000 v3
  4. Pants - As pointed out, even denim jeans stand no chance against pavement. At the very least, Kevlar jeans should be worn. Then comes textile, and then leather. They all offer good abrasion resistance, but leather is best, albeit very warm in the summer. Textile is more in the middle, offering moderate abrasion resistance and 4 season capabilities. You WILL want knee pads/sliders for impact protection. Recommended brands are same as jackets, if you get the same brand, they will probably be able to be zipped together to make a two piece suit for the track (some tracks required 2 piece suits to be able to be zipped together). Some examples of pants are:
    • Draggin' / Drayko Kevlar lined jeans (I believe these jeans are actually CE certified)
    • AGV Sport Willow leather pants
    • Fieldsheer Mercury textile pants
  5. Gloves - You want gloves. Hell, a pair of Mechanix gloves are better than nothing. However, I would highly recommend a glove with hard knuckle and wrist protection. I recommend the gauntlet style with hard wrist protection instead of the short street cuff style. Remember, if you drop the bike at speed, your hand WILL try to stop your body from moving, and you want something to protect your hand when it does that. Try to get a glove that is made out of leather so you get the most abrasion resistance. Most major brands have good quality gloves, such as:
    • Dainese
    • Held
    • Alpinestars
    • Cortech


A little aside on different motorcycle brands.. Dainese and Alpinestars are widely regarded as the top 2 brands of gear. Some prefer Dainese, some prefer Alpinestars, but the truth is you will not go wrong either way. I personally use a Dainese jacket, and Alpinestars boots. They are both top notch, and it really is a "Chevy vs Ford" debate. Just remember to get gear that fits correctly, and is comfortable, because if you don't want to wear the gear, it will never protect you sitting in your closet.



Now you're asking yourself, where do I buy this gear?! Here are a few places, with great customer service, prices, and selection:

Sportbiketrackgear.com (Site Vendor!) (Jason @ Ext. 210)
Hardracing.com (Site Vendor!)
Ridersdiscount.com (Site Vendor!)
Revzilla.com
Motorcyclegear.com (lots of closeouts to be had here)


You don't have to wear all the gear listed, but a hospital bill and rehab are a lot more painful than a slightly smaller bank account. Besides, most of this gear can be used for YEARS to come, so think about it more as a long term investment. Thanks for reading, go out and ride, and be safe whether you are ATGATT or in shorts!



I've been in an ACCIDENT, what do I do?!?
Not taking into account your bodily injuries, some of your gear may be rendered useless. If your helmet took some impact, it is done, do NOT use it again, it's time for a new one. The reason for this is because the impact protection in a helmet is ONE TIME USE ONLY. If it takes some force from the impact, the styrofoam inside crushes to lessen the effect on your head, and it does NOT return back to where it was. If your clothes took a beating and they are ripped, they are usually done (not sure how strong restitching is, do you want to risk it?). Inspect and replace armor if needed, especially if you know you landed on the armor.


There is some really good info on motorcycle riding gear in this PDF from the Queensland Government Motorcycle Safety
 
#7 · (Edited)
Jacket - Leather is best, but textile is good as well. Make sure the jacket has CE rated armor in both elbows and shoulders. A CE rated back protector is also recommended, but not as important.
I beg to differ and would say that it is a top priority to replace the useless foam back protector that typically comes in jackets with a proper CE rated back protector. Probably should note that CE back protectors are rated either lv 1 or 2.

Pants - At the very least, wear a pair of denim jeans
Jeans are basically useless though. Don't want to give people a false sense of security.

For gloves I would recommend Held gloves :)
 
#8 ·
Do NOT trust regular, every day jeans to protect you from road rash or crush protection. I know this from experience and road rash is fucking awful, especially from a fall going any faster than 35 MPH.

Another good thing to know is that all gear you buy is only good for ONE crash. All protective padding is useless after one accident, so be sure to replace it if you do end up in an accident, especially your helmet!
A rule of thumb that I've heard and read about is: If you drop your helmet from the height of your bike, it's no longer going to offer proper skull protection.

I'm not saying you should live by these rules, but it's a good way to guarantee the most protection in the event of an accident.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#9 ·
Do NOT trust regular, every day jeans to protect you from road rash or crush protection. I know this from experience and road rash is fucking awful, especially from a fall going any faster than 35 MPH.

Another good thing to know is that all gear you buy is only good for ONE crash. All protective padding is useless after one accident, so be sure to replace it if you do end up in an accident, especially your helmet!
A rule of thumb that I've heard and read about is: If you drop your helmet from the height of your bike, it's no longer going to offer proper skull protection.

I'm not saying you should live by these rules, but it's a good way to guarantee the most protection in the event of an accident.
Higher quality gear, with the exception of helmets, is designed to take more than one crash.
 
#12 ·
Gear Protection

Hi everyone! :)
I have a few questions on gear protection. I feel like I have most of my gear, a Shoei RF-1100 helmet, A pair of SIDI Vertigo Lei boots, a pair of Motolisa Boots (yes 2 pairs of boots lol I couldn't decide so I got both :D ), gloves, and an Alpinestars leather jacket. I thought I was good with this gear but a friend of mine recommend me to get a back, chest and knee protectors. I've been looking around at all the types but I'm confused. Do I get a insert back protector? Or do I buy a separate vest (back) protector? What about the chest? and knees? Do I just buy pants with knee protection? Can all of this go over my work/school clothes so I can take of the gear once I get to work/school?
I'm sorry for all the questions lol
I'm just confused
 
#13 ·
Does your jacket have an insert slot in the back? If it does you could just buy an insert and put that in.

If you want knee protection get a pair of pants with knee pads on em.

But. consider this. safety is number one. but do you want to be lugging around all that much gear to school at work?

Stick to the main areas of protection, helmet, jacket, gloves, you should be ok. But if you want to go all out, get pants. more is better than less if you end up needing it.... hopefully not.

buy your pants a bit larger than you need in the waste and that way they'll fit over your school cloths. but keep the length what you need

oh also. you dont really need a chest protector... areas of impact are going to be your back legs, arms, hands, feet. think of yourself rolling on the pavement, thats pretty much what you wanns protect.
 
#14 ·
Thank you! I think I will just buy an insert because it does have a slot in the back and pants with knee protection :)
I don't mind carrying everything around but if I do then I'll just put it in a locker at school and at work its ok because I have my own "closet". I'd rather be well protected then not be.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I personally would recommend a good solid pair of textile or leather over pants. Many of them include knee and hip protection and you wont have to worry about being burned after a scrape across the ground like you'd get from kevlar. Kevlar is also very HOT. It's propensity to absorb energy(heat) means it'll feel quite a bit warmer than a vented textile over pant with regular pants on underneath. A good pair of kevlar pants will also cost you a bit more than a textile over pant or even some of the vented leather pants. Also, stay the hell away from kevlar jeans that use kevlar panels instead of a kevlar weave. Those panels are going to disappear the moment the denim it's attached to deteriorates. Which will be fairly soon in the sliding process.

Btw, those armor rigs that you see are aimed more towards the motor cross and stunting guys. Riding where impacts will be much greater than abrasions. For street riding, you're going to have a higher chance of abrasion over impacts. Which is why you see a lot of street gear with basic padding but really focus on abrasion protection (sliders everywhere and leather.) You GENERALLY don't have to worry about coming off and hitting your chest on a stomp or rock or find your way down a hill the hard way. Not that it can't happen on a street bike. Anytime your body becomes a projectile is a bad day where anything can happen. It's just a much greater occurrence for motor crossers, trail bikers, and stunters. Relatively low speed but high variable altitude changes. If they have an off, they really aren't going to do be doing 100'+ slides like you will on a street bike. Most of what they do will be a fall vs a slide. Which is why I find it really odd when I see squids in nothing but t-shirt and shorts but wearing a chest rig for padding. I guess someone forgot to tell them that you can die from shock from having your skin ripped off your body. It is a very important organ too. Hell, at least with an impact it could potentially be a very quick death. Getting your skin ripped off and dieing from shock or even from losing your contaminant barrier and dieing from infection sounds way worse to me.

Most street jackets come with pockets for upgrading the padding in them. Sliding in CE pads into these is well worth doing and it wont require modification or carrying around a bunch of extra gear. If you jacket has the pockets for it, then get the pads to put in them.
 
#17 ·
I was under the impression that Kevlar Jeans (like Dragging Jeans) were great. Based on your post, they aren't all that much.

That being said...can you link some products (pants) that are SAFE and look good? Laugh at/flame me if you want, but I want to look at least somewhat good while riding.
 
#18 ·
Get a lock. Protect the gear that protects you.
 
#20 ·
I want something like jeans (which is why I'm looking at Draggin) so when I ride 20 minutes to a friends party, I don't need to change/take stuff off/put stuff on and I don't need to spend 6hrs in riding pants (while not riding). Ya know?

This is why finding gear is so hard. Other than jackets, pretty much ALL of it is not stylish in ANY way other than riding jeans (which evidently aren't worth it).
 
#24 · (Edited)
Disregard....wrong thread.
 
#26 ·
I have a spare Dainese G2 back protector if you want it. Came with my old Dainese jacket. Never used.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lizette
#29 · (Edited)
I go that way every week. No inconvenience. Try it. If it works...it's yours.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Don't discount the protection of kevlar. They offer more protection against abrasion than people are giving it credit for. It all comes down to preference, comfort and risk you're willing to take. I have fully lined kevlar jeans with reinforced kevlar at the knees, butt and hips. They are heavy, but comfortable and I don't find them hot at all. Been wearing them in 80-90 degree weather and they feel just fine. Keep in mind that no material offers protection from initial impact.

Take a look at this abrasion test and video...

http://youtu.be/6u_1yPMwQL8

http://www.trainwreckstudios.net/abrasion/road.html

Or if you want the the best protection you should wear this...

http://youtu.be/mo9Vlt5tGwY

Or

http://youtu.be/rQr8YkzEEWQ


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#37 ·
i know my draggin jeans/jacket are way over due for replacement.been busy spending my money on family & putting them infront of me when it comes to priority’s in life.having said that, they have been washed no more then 6 times in the last 17 years, i kid you not.

this video i posted a few days ago is pretty damn good

 
#38 ·
i know my draggin jeans/jacket are way over due for replacement.been busy spending my money on family & putting them infront of me when it comes to priority’s in life.having said that, they have been washed no more then 6 times in the last 17 years, i kid you not.

this video i posted a few days ago is pretty damn good

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUKzAORD35I
The problem I have with those videos is that they are all on clean and managed specially prepared tracks and have the guy under a controlled drag with zero impact factors at all. The problem is, that the great amount of friction and damage that occurs to a fabric are all the little impact moments as the fabric first hits the ground while moving in a direction as well. That's where MOST of the damage will come from. I've seen guys pulled behind horses and their jeans are just dirty after that but the moment they do a 0 mph fall their put a hole right where they land at scraping their knee. The huge spike in friction at the moment of impact is what I'm mostly worried about kevlar being able to hold up to. You then compound that with the common sharp road debris and I don't think kevlar will hold up well unless you get really lucky and manage to miss all the nasty crap on the road and are able to lay the bike down smoothly and gently so you can just slide your ass down the road and not hit and tumble a bit. Then when you combine the high price of it, and it just doesn't seem worth it in the end just so you don't have to go through the minute or two of putting over pants on or off.

Now, as an under layer BENEATH over pants I would totally do. I see them much better as a last defense layer that you can go out and do what you want in rather than a stand alone solution.
 
#43 ·
Leather is better than Kevlar, but there's no research to show it's less durable than textile. Leather, textile or Kevlar won't prevent you from getting injured in an accident. It'll help prevent you from losing your skin and that's it. You may still suffer broken bones, torn muscles, etc. These materials are marketed based on their ability to resist friction, not their ability to withstand impact.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#44 · (Edited)
You will still be more protected by buying some actual riding gear, regardless of if its made from textile, leather, kevlar or bloody non stick teflon than having standard clothing.

Buy what you can afford, within your price range, that you feel comfortable in. No good having a 20,000 dollar racing suit made of unobtanium/kryptonite or whatever, if you are uncomfortable and it takes away your concentration for whats at hand.

Some protection, kevlar, leather or textile, is better than none.