HOW TO: Change Your Oil (Picture Guide) - Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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HOW TO: Change Your Oil (Picture Guide)

With all the oil questions and being that time of the year (for us Canadians and Northerners anyways) it's time to do your last oil change and put the bike away for the winter season I know it sucks, and was damn cold riding in -5C weather.

Now everyone loves videos, or not cause then you have to scroll back through them to re-listen to what the person said, and there are a few posted that are good, but I prefer an old fashioned set of written instructions.

I took it upon myself to do an oil change last night on my 2013 Ninja 300 SE prior to storing it for the winter. With that said here is a picture and instructions walkthrough on how to change your oil yourself and save some good money. I go through the motions of removing the lower fairings, you can choose to do so or not, I find it easier and safer to just remove it, takes and extra minute to do so.

- Flathead screwdriver (or plastic bolt remover - yes there is a special tool for these, I don't have it so I used a screwdriver).
- 17mm socket or socket wrench
- Oil Filter Remover Wrench
- Hex Keys (found in the stock toolkit that comes with the bike under the passenger seat).
- New Oil Filter (no kidding - I used K&N)
- At least 2.2L of 10w40 oil (I use Synthetic).
- Oil Catch can / bucket
- Funnel
- Shop towels, it will get messy
- Empty bottle for old oil (properly dispose of this locally! DO NOT DUMP IN DRAINS OR GARBAGE BINS).
- Shop towels
- Latex rubber gloves (Optional)


TOTAL TIME: Approx 30-60 depending on how cautious you are. Your know-how will improve each time you do this change.

Prior to starting the change, run the bike for 5-10 minutes, this ensures the oil is warmed up which will help it drain easier.

STEP 1 - Secure your bike upright: Stand the bike straight up 90 degrees to the ground, this can be accomplished by lifting the rear tire on a rear bike stand, or having a *good* friend hold the bike up (I say *good* because A they must be trustworthy, and B they must be willing to hold the bike up for a good 30-45 minutes)

*Note* if you plan on doing any mods or maintenance on your bike I highly recommend investing in a set of swingarm spools (little black bolt looking things threaded into my lower swingarm), and a good set of bike stands. You will thank me later.

Make sure the bike is secure.

STEP 2 - Remove the lower right fairing: on the right side of the bike (throttle side) remove the 3 highlighted (in red) bolts using the two hex keys that come with the bike in the repair kit, set the bolts aside in a safe place for later. The blue circled areas show the location of 3 clips (2 upper, 1 lower) which tie into the mid fairing above, be careful removing the lower fairing as you don't want to break any of these clips, you may need to apply slight pressure to get them to release. I found if you pull it slightly away from the bike it let go easier.

Before trying to remove the fairing you need to remove two additional *bolt clips* from the front of the fairing and underside of the fairing shown here in black

To do so, I used a flathead screwdriver and worked it back and forth till the centre section popped up. Once it does you should be able to pull the clip out with your fingers. Again pay attention to where the clips line up with the left side fairings, it makes for an easier reinstall.

Set the lower fairing aside. Be careful not to scratch it.

*NOTE* I was further along with my change where all the clips and bolts were removed and oil was already draining when I decided to make this tutorial.

Removing this exposes the following oil filter and exhaust header location making it much easier to work with (again, in my opinion). This is your oil filter showing in yellow.

With the working space opened up let's get the change going.

STEP 3 - Draining the Oil: now comes the fun (and potentially messy) part. Take note of the three highlighted (in yellow) locations.

The top right location is your oil fill valve (this should be finger tight, it is a plastic piece), the lower left location is your oil viewing window (shows you how much oil is in the bike, mine is emptied already, this is glass), the middle lower location is the oil sump release bolt (should be a steel 17mm bolt).

Place your oil catch can / tub beneath the lower mid section and slightly off to the right, using a 17mm socket SLOWLY loosen the oil sump release bolt, once it is loose enough you should fully loosen it using your fingers. If you don't like getting your hands dirty I suggest wearing latex gloves as oil will start to drain from the lower sump out of your bike.

Let the bike continue to drain until it is at a trickle. You can place a shop towel on the floor under this bolt while you move onto the next part of this step.

Moving the oil catch tub towards the front of the bike under the oil filter location start to loosen using the oil filter wrench *NOTE* the stock filter on my bike was on very tight the first oil change we did (at 800miles), guess the machine that put it on was in super mode that day. Needed quite a bit of force to get that one off. The oil filter should be on hand tightened, some mechanics say otherwise but they are full of shit. The good thing about the KN-303 filter is that it comes with a 17mm bolt built on the end of it for easy removal. Do not torque the filter on.

Anyways, here's the filter removed. You may want to throw a cloth over your headers, I didn't (stupid me) it won't cause any harm but it does smoke up a bit till all the oil is burnt off the headers. Just makes for more cleanup.

While the oil is dripping out you can start prepping the new filter.

STEP 4 - Re-installation: now that all of the old is out, it's time to put in the new. There are many makes and brands of oil filters and oil out there, I chose to use the following, this is a personal preference, follow your owner's manual.

Oil: Maxum4 SynBlend4 10w40
Oil Filter: K&N KN-303

The K&N KN-303 comes with a pre-lubbed seal, but I still recommend dipping your finger in the old oil and running it around the seal ring (black rubber gasket shown below). An extra 3 seconds that could help you in the future, why not do it.

Some will also pour oil into the new filter, I don't but it won't hurt to do so. After the new filter is prepped thread it onto the oil filter thread on the side of the block. This should thread on very easily, if it doesn't, back it out and try it again. Make sure you hand tighten + 1/4 turn, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! I can't stress this enough, it sucks to have to demolish a filter to get it off, not fun.

Also put the oil sump drain plug back into place, this one you should torque to manufacturers specification, again, do not over tighten or you risk stripping and breaking the bolt head, not fun. This plug utilizes a 17mm socket.

STEP 5 - Fill with Oil: pretty self explanatory, with the lower plugs and new filter in place, put your funnel into the upper fill valve and start pouring in the new oil. Watch your oil viewing window as you pour in, should take around 2L to get it to 1/2 to 3/4 of the viewing window full. Once the oil is at this mark close the oil fill valve (finger tight) and start the bike. Let the bike run for 5-10 minutes to ensure the oil is moving through the system, turn the bike off, wait 5 minutes for the oil to slump down into the sump and top it up using the oil fill valve. The bike should take around 2.2L of oil total.

Remember, do no over or under fill the bike with oil. In the end your viewing window should have roughly 3/4 of oil in it with the bike still on your rear stand, keep in mind the viewing window will show empty when the bike is leaned over. If you do happen to overfill it, you can loosen the lower sump bolt and drain some out, wasting new oil, but better safe than sorry.

STEP 6 - Re-Install the Fairing: Again, self explanatory, reverse the removal process by carefully placing the lower right fairing clips into location then thread in the 3 hex bolts and 2 lower black clips. Make sure all the clips line up with the other fairing pieces, this can take some monkeying around but they should fit in easy together and snug, do not force them.

STEP 7 - Cleanup & Ride: anyone with a shop hates having messes around, so cleanup, wipe the floor, your bike, put away tools, etc. Properly dispose of your old oil (I used an old 4L milk jug), and send it to the proper disposal processing plant, check your local listings.

Lower the bike off the rear stand and let it rest on it's side stand, start it up, and go for a ride.

Ride safe everyone, if you need any further descriptions or pictures please feel free to request them. Hope this helps at least 1 person out and saves them a bit of time and money because well, who doesn't like saving money. It really is this simple.


2013 Kawasaki Ninja 300 Special Edition - Kawi Green (Summer Ride)
Mods: TYGA Performance "Maggot" slip-on exhaust, K&N Air Filter (KN-2508), K&N Oil Filter (KN-303), 7clicks adjustable standard levers, SSR emissions block-off plate, Vortex swingarm spools, 15T/43T sprockets w/ 108 D.I.D. chain.
2001 Lexus IS300 - Solar Yellow (Winter Ride)

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Last edited by ThisGuy; 10-30-2013 at 02:12 PM.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 03:41 PM
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Great write up man !

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 04:39 PM
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excellent guide, adding to DIY sticky now. if you find this usefull, press the thanks button above where i did.

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Last edited by cruizin; 11-08-2013 at 03:05 AM.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 05:11 PM
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Long extension and knuckle if you have after-market headers

Last edited by cruizin; 10-30-2013 at 05:44 PM. Reason: added " if you have after-market headers"
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