Do you happen to ride the ABS model?
Why do you mention the 250?Planning to geCould be because its a new bike, but if its almost identical to the 250, there shouldnt be a problem
Doesn't matter they are identical.Why do you mention the 250?
Was the kit you bought meant for the 300 or the 250?
I feel ya there mate, I ended up recoating my end cap myself and keeping the spare that they sent me, but it took a few emails to finally get them to send the spare one. No instructions or offer of advice on how to fit it, there are plenty of videos online I was told. Great after sales service they have.Yea, the I can get them re threaded for the proper fit. But the thing is, I paid for their product..and since it doesn't fit, I require their service. I don't feel like paying extra to drive somewhere to get someone someone to get the rod re threaded and pay for that (or buying the tools to do it myself). I think because of their lack of help makes me wanna push the matter to actually get them to help
Iono..I guess the magnitude of getting it rethreaded doesn't seem so big...but its the principle of the thing.
Call me stubborn, but paying for something that doesn't fit on what its supposed to is..eh..
Spray a good amount of PB Blaster on there and let it sit for 20-30 minutes before you start trying to wrench on it. I read one of your older threads and it sounds like you cross threaded it on there. If it is cross threaded (I am pretty sure it is), then you need to wipe down the area that you sprayed PB Blaster on and get a torch and heat up the threads some and then try to back it out. Be easy with it when you are trying to back it out the rod, you could snap it off at the threads and then thats a whole other process.bumping this thread.
so yoshimura sent me a new rod that is the actual correctly threaded part. i checked with the lock nuts on my old shifter rod. my problem now is getting the old rod off of the linkage ends. it is completely seized and i cannot get them out. used pb blaster and everything. anyone else running into the same issue?
crisis averted! i let the pb sit a little longer and took off the shift lever. i was able to turn it until the lever side came off, and throw on 2 spare nuts locked together to back out the transmission end. miraculously, the revised rod threaded into the linkages smoothly, and i was able to use the factory lock nuts perfectly. i thought my bike would be down, but everything came together nicely afterallSpray a good amount of PB Blaster on there and let it sit for 20-30 minutes before you start trying to wrench on it. I read one of your older threads and it sounds like you cross threaded it on there. If it is cross threaded (I am pretty sure it is), then you need to wipe down the area that you sprayed PB Blaster on and get a torch and heat up the threads some and then try to back it out. Be easy with it when you are trying to back it out the rod, you could snap it off at the threads and then thats a whole other process.
Awesome! PB Blaster is an actual Metal Penetrator, so sometimes it needs a little time to work. WD-40 isn't a real penetrator, more of a softener. PB Blaster is the best. I am glad you were able to save everything, could've been a much worse (expensive) situation.crisis averted! i let the pb sit a little longer and took off the shift lever. i was able to turn it until the lever side came off, and throw on 2 spare nuts locked together to back out the transmission end. miraculously, the revised rod threaded into the linkages smoothly, and i was able to use the factory lock nuts perfectly. i thought my bike would be down, but everything came together nicely afterall![]()