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Kawasaki Ninja 300 2013 SE ABS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys

Decided to fire the bike up today after having it sit for 6 months (i have a company car, so i drive that everywhere rather than ride the bike)

Anyway, gave the bike a good clean, went to turn the bike over and.... nothing. I figured it's a dead battery, took the battery out (lithium battery) took it down to a battery place, they tell me they can't charge it till tuesday. great. I go to a local bike place, grab a new normal battery, shove it in... and nothing.

The only light i get, is if the indicator switch is flipped, the indicator light on the dash will flash (abit slower than normal, and no indicator lights on the exterior of the bike) and the tacho needle will jump slighty. There's no fuel pump noises when the kill switch is engaged, no clicks or anything when the starter button is pushed.

So it's getting some form of electrical power, but i just can't figure out where the fault lies. All the fuses are good.

I took the new battery i bought back to the place and got a credit, i'm hoping they gave me a dead battery and i'll test the bike again when i get my lithium. However if that doesn't do it, i'll be super stumped. my next plan of attack is disconnect my power commander from all the terminals and hope that's whats stopping it. then i'll disconnect my HID headlights. However I don't see them causing my issues with no lights on the dash or anything like that.

Everything i've researched in the service manual and other forum threads sounds like it's either a fuse or battery issue, so just hoping someone can help me with some tips or advice to have a sus when i get my battery back.
 

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Hello.

For someone like me, who has loads and loads of tools for every conceivable occurrence, it's hard to imagine someone like you who would go to so much trouble (driving to get a Li-Ion battery charged and be willing to wait a week for them to do so, buy a replacement lead acid battery, return it again because of suspected [but unconfirmed] low voltage, etc.).
I need to step back, re-evaluate, and realize that not everyone is a mechanic with the necessary budget and the OCD to try and fix EVERYTHING themselves...

With all that out of the way:
What we know:

  • bike hasn't run in 6 months
  • bike was cleaned
  • won't start with existing li-ion battery (unknown voltage)
  • won't start with 'new' lead-acid battery (unknown voltage)
  • minute sign of 'life', i.e. dashboard shows indicator light

First question: how did you clean the bike? High pressure water blaster? Potential for water dislodging or shorting something out?
If not, your MOST LIKELY culprit is a LOW voltage on both batteries; on the li-ion one because it sat for so long and/or potentially went bad, and on the new lead-acid battery because it sat in the store for so long it suffered from naturally occurring self-discharge (about 5%-10% per month is normal).

Definitely get a FULLY CHARGED battery in that bike, and report back. We'll take it from there.

IN THE MEANTIME, I do suggest you invest in the most rudimentary of tools: a multimeter and a battery charger. For the multimeter, its simplest function is to measure voltage. Your battery is DC voltage which is very easy to measure; here's a sub-A$10 one from Bunnings:
For the li-ion battery charger it's going to be a bit trickier; you can't use a 'normal' car battery charger, as those are almost exclusively for lead-acid, AGM, etc. chemistry.
Finding a good li-ion charger might not be that easy or cheap, and if you have a multimeter, maybe it won't be necessary. Here's one I found quickly for A$120.00 to A$150.00 (it has excellent ratings on Amazon):
Same one, but on SALE:

Good luck!
 

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Kawasaki Ninja 300 2013 SE ABS
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi There

Thanks for the advice, it's the same conclusions that I've come to. I usually do try fix everything myself and I doubt i'll be taking the bike to a shop to get fixed, i just need patience and work through it methodically, agree with you in that I need a 100% known good and charged battery to take the next step.

To answer the questions specifically

I used a waterless wash to clean the bike. In my unit complex I don't have easy access to a hose. So just spray it on the bike then wipe it off, actually comes up a treat. So whilst some spray could've gone in the fairings, I doubt it'd be a water short or anything like that.

As for the multi-meter, I'm also quite annoyed at myself. I've had one for the past 10 years, however I must have lost it when I recently changed jobs (photocopier tech) but seeing as i've never needed one in my job for ages, i've never had a need to replace it. I'll be getting one soon.

I know that a special li-ion charger is required, but there was no way i could get it on saturday morning so I took the battery in to get charged.

I'm hoping the lead acid battery I bought was dead from sitting on the shelf. It would explain a lot.

However once i get my lithium battery back and a report on it, or even purchase a new one i'll report back here with an update if it's either working, or not.

I've had this bike for 8 years now and I've installed all the aftermarket bits myself, so I'm hoping it's reviveable.

Cheers
 
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Good stuff.(y)

My previous post was maybe a bit condescending on a re-read, sorry about that.

Looks like the cleaning was NOT the issue then - I thought maybe a heavy water-blasting might have dislodged something or pushed water where it didn't belong. Definitely doesn't sound like it's the case.
Pretty sure all will be good once you get a good battery back in there again. Maybe check the battery connections for corrosion/oxidation and give 'em a good clean?

How's the li-ion battery? Always wanted to get one, but never got around to it.
 

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Just to clarify, when you say "all fuses good" did you also check the 30A fuse (can't remember if there's one or two...) on the starter relay as well as the fuses in the boxes?
Not trying to be condescending, I just know that it's common for people to forget/not know about this one (or these ones?) because they are separate from the boxes.

EDIT A: If you're getting enough juice to the cluster for the indicator indicator to light up, my best guess is flat-flat batteries, too.
 

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I would suspect a dead new battery as well - but you need to test it.

Get a cheap multimeter. Read the voltage before you hit the button. It should be over 12.7V if it's charged. If that's OK, check it again when you hit the button. It should stay over 10V, or more during, cranking.

Without doing those checks, you have no idea if you have a charged battery or not. Even a "smart" charger can give you a "green light" on a bad battery.

I would personally stick with a standard battery for general street use. I've only had 2 Yuasa batteries in my '06 SVn since new.
 

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Kawasaki Ninja 300 2013 SE ABS
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi everyone, thanks for the replies.

Thought I'd do an update. I got the battery back from the battery place on tuesday, they said that it was completely dead when they started the charge but it does seem fine. it's putting out the correct cold cranking amps after being charged to full.

I put the battery back in the bike this morning and... started first go! Took it out for a bit of a spin for an hour and a half and the bike doesn't seem to have any issues after sitting for ages (apart from pumping the tires up).

So yeah, turns out I had bought a new flat battery from the local bike shop and popped back into today to turn my credit into a full refund. Bit annoyed, but ah well not much I can do now.

Next steps will be buying my own lithium charger so i can charge the battery myself.
 
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