Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forums banner
21 - 40 of 85 Posts

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
816 Posts
Yes, I have the SV bracket. I did the mod almost two years ago. The list that I got from SV racing at that time is this:

Nissin
1999 - 2000 CBR 600 F4
2001 - 2006 CBR 600 F4i
2000-2001 CBR 929,
2002- 2003 CBR 954,
2003-2004 CBR 600RR

Tokiko
2001 - 2003 GSXR 600,
2000 - 2003 GSXR 750
Any year SV1000

I don't know why he would change the list. Try emailing SV Racing. Its owner's name is Blair. He always answered me right away every time I had a question.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Looks like both exhaust valves on the left cylinder are just barely too tight. My .20mm fits fine but .23 doesn’t (low spec is .22mm). Everything else is in spec. By the look of the left sparkplug that cylinder was a bit too lean and caused more heat. Going to try to find some better feeler gauges or even just a .22mm gauge. If they are just in spec than I’m leaving them and will get them next time but if not I’ll fix them.
If I do end up having to swap shims for the tight exhaust valves should I swap shims on the other two exhaust valves to put them in the middle of spec too? Right now the other two are on the tighter side of in spec. Guess I’ll need a mic to measure the existing shims as well or are they marked clearly?
Fluid Spark plug Auto part Tints and shades Electric blue
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive engine gasket Rim
 

· Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Also, do you guys check the valves for cylinder 1 using the “1 F” mark on the flywheel? The manual is vague and says use the “2T” mark but I could only get the valves for cylinder 2 with that.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
You gotta rotate the motor over twice for a full revolution of the camshafts. So in certain "2T" positions, you won't have the right camshaft positions. The manual ensures you have the motor in the right phase of cycle by telling you the timing mark needs to be 2T, and also that the camshaft lobes need to be pointed like X". So make sure you're in the right phase of cycle.

I also had my spark plugs come out like yours, they always seem a bit imbalanced the 2 or 3 times I've changed them. I think after I changed my piston rings they became much more similar though. I have never done a throttle valve sync, and after doing it on my GSX-R, I would not be surprised if that (or a similar procedure for newer bikes) is in order. Can't hurt.

Hope this helps.
-Mike
 

· Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
For every valve you need it at 2T? Maybe I missed it but I spun the engine over 5-6 times and the lobes never pointed away on the flywheel side when the flywheel was at 2T. Maybe they arent out of spec I’ll need to revisit this lol. Thanks! I’m betting just bad luck the flywheel spun quickly past the correct 2T every time. Thanks!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I just checked again, I can tell you that the valve lobes do not point up and away from each other on cyl. 1 when the flywheel is at 2T. They point up/down and obviously 180 degrees difference when I turn the engine over one more revolution. Is it 1T for cylinder 1 and 2T for cylinder 2? I’ll try that but not sure why the manual only says 2T?
Light Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim
Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Rim
 

· Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Its got to be 1t for cyl. 1 and 2t for cyl. 2. The cams line up as they should on those marks for their respective cylinders. It makes since that you want it on 1t, cyl. 1 at tdc on compression stroke so the valves are all closed and not touching the buckets. Just not aure why the manual only says 2t. I measured again and .23 fit on 3 of the exhaust valves (so barely in spec) and on the fourth, .20 for easy and .23 didn’t go. I wish I had a .22mm gauge because I might just be barely in the range but my gut tells me to just re-shim all the exhaust valves into the center of the range? What do you guys think?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I shimmed my valves, lucky a loval shop had the shs I needed for $5 each. All are in spec now but 1 ended up right at .29mm, the extreme top of the range (but still in spec). What do you guys think, leave it or try to get it down more toward the middle? .28 fits easy and .30 fits if I really drive it in. So I guess its .29 lol? The middle valves are hard as hell to get an accurate reading on as well.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Found a nice set of Tokico’s on ebay. I tried to swindle the seller into only selling me the right one but he wouldn’t go for it so I had to get both. Spare parts I guess. They were cheap enough anyway for the pair.
Motor vehicle Bicycle part Automotive tire Auto part Automotive wheel system
 

· Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Yeah I wanted to find a nice caliper to use though as long as it works correctly then thats all that matters. I plan to rebuild it and clean it before using since it has 20 year opd brake fluid gelled all through it:oops:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Sent my ecu out to MRP Motorsports to be flashed. He said he can flash it for the stock exhaust but I’ll need to delete the o2 sensor so I ordered a delete kit from Kawasaki Brad for that.
Also more goodies in the mail…
Cosmetics Publication Font Writing implement Office supplies
 

· Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I noticed the threads looked a little odd on the Annitori QS strain gauge and come to find out they are made to take either left or right hand thread. How is that even possible? I also got a Flash Tune shift rod kit so I would have the correct shift rod I need eventually when I get rear sets and the female threads on all of those accept left or right hand threads. I obviously know why they do it, I just don’t understand how it is possible to make a “good” thread that accepts either of two different screws?
Anyway it must work fine as a lot of racers and riders use these quick shifters and have never heard of the threads failing on the sensor gauge. Just thought it was interesting.
That said, the threads on the Annitori are really jenky even though they work fine. If you stuck a q-tip in the threaded hole it would get stuck or rip half of the fibers off, best way I can describe it lol. That is the intial reason I thought something was wrong with them. The Flash Tune shift rod kit threads are perfect as you would expect.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Hey when you guys drain the coolant, do you remove the drain bolt in the front of the engine as well? In the past I have always just removed the drain bolt off the waterpump assuming that all the coolant will run down hill.
 
21 - 40 of 85 Posts
Top