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Winter project

7418 Views 330 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  jjmaine
I pulled the 300 into my shop for the winter to give it all the maintenance and a number of upgrades that I want to try or I think will make the bike much more enjoyable to ride. I’ll make a quick list of what I’m going to do and any tips or suggestions on parts is welcome.

Maintenance: valve check, spark plugs etc. I’ll re-grease my steering stem bearings (already upgraded) and pull the swingarm and grease that and the shock linkage.

Brakes: Stainless brake lines, new front rotor/pads (oem rotor is warped) and new rear pads. I’ll also pull apart both calipers and clean them thoroughly.

Ecu flash and Sprint air filter (I’m keeping the stock exhaust

New seat (the stock seat is not that comfy and jams me into the tank).

Quick shifter: I could honestly do without one but I’ve never had a bike with one and want to try it so why not?

Suspension: Ohlin’s cartridges for the forks and a Gsxr600 rear shock. I already have the gsxr shock on now but I bought a spare that I intend to send to Traxxion Dynamics for a full rebuild and hopefully they can work some magic on the shock valving? I do need to find a way to keep the stock handlebars with the added height of the Ohlins fork caps.
That’s about it, I’ll add pics and updates as I do things but any advice on which parts/brands like brake pads, seat or anything will help.
I’ve got the fairings off so first thing will be the valve check. I’ve ordered new gaskets as my valve cover gasket is dried out and has a few small cracks starting
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Is this shifter cutting the coil packs like the Annitori does?

Glad you got it sorted and found something that works better in your standard RPM range.

Get that dial indicator! Hopefully it reveals something simpler (cheaper) than a whole new wheel.
Yes, it cuts the coils same as the Annitori. The only difference is it changes the cut times automatically for every shift depending on the gear, rpms and acceleration according to them.
I’m going to get one from Harbor Freight in the morning so I can hopefully see whats causing it. It wouldn’t bother me so much but I can hear the brake pads hitting and not hitting the rotor when i slow down for a stop sign. Shhh_____shhhhh________shhhhhhhhhhhh. Infuriating lol
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Wheel has .006” of axial runout and the standard is .02” or less so I’m well under that. Lunch time so I havent checked the disc yet but I will… Right? One of those lines on the dial is .001”?
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Yep. Each tick mark is 1 thou. The small dial marks every 100 thou. Your wheel is well within spec. Must be the rotor?
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It can’t be but it has to be lol. I just checked the rotor and that’s only 4 thou runout so its fine. I think it is the rotor but just normal for a floating rotor? I noticed that if I spin the wheel and rap on the rotor lightly with my knuckles the oscillating sound will go away and if I tap some more it comes back. I’m thinking the reason its so noticeable is because these HH sintered pads are a lot louder than owm organic type pads?

Theres really nothing left for me to do but ride it. I could put the wheel back in the stand and test runout again but if its fine on the bike (where the noise is happening) it really shouldn’t matter if it’s okay off the bike right? Worse case it burns the rotor and pads up and I’ll have to get a better set.

Could also be that I’m over sensitive to every little thing since I had this bike basically stripped down all winter. May just take time for the pads and rotor to bed in as well. I’m probably being too picky lol. Time to ride!!!

The brakes are bled perfectly if you ask me. Nice firm lever that only moves 1/2” (at the end of the long lever)before you hit a “wall”…
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The rotor is prob a little more than .004” runout but I could only set the dial on the very inside of the braking surface where the pads dont touch because there are holes everywhere else that the dial falls in and moves it off track. Ebc probably does that on purpose so you can’t measure runout in their shitty rotors😂. Im kidding..
I’m sure you’re fine. I would think you’d have to place a bit of pressure on the floating rotor to keep it under tension to give you a clear reading???

Hop on it and let it rip.
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Yeah like you said, just the floating rotor doing its thing. I just put one of these same Ebc rotors on my dirtbike (albeit the SX version) and it was straight as an arrow abd didn’t do what this one does…. I still think it’s normal since everything looks to be in spec.
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Bike handles awesome, goes great and with the air filter and ecu flash it sounds pretty damn good too. I think it sounds better now with the ecu flash and stock exhaust than any of the aftermarket silencers I have heard.

I haven’t tweaked the suspension yet and it already feels good. Front brake is amazing and maybe just a bit overkill but I love it. Quickshifter is a lot of fun on them wide open straights…

I tried a 40 tooth rear sprocket and it was no beuno for me. First gear felt good but lost acceleration everywhere else and it wasn’t worth it IMO so I put the 42 back on. With stock gearing I was just going over 80mph in 5th gear on the back roads (I rarely take this bike on the highway) so that’s good enough for me.

My plan is to run the 300 until something major breaks (and probably fix it) and then buy a Ninja 400. At least my entire front brake system and shock will bolt right on lol….
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Looks awesome!

Are you sure about mounting the brakes on the N400? Don't you need at least a different plate adapter? Are the rotors the same size and same bolt pattern?
Thanks! As far as I know they are the same bracket. At least SSR advertises it as a Ninja 300/400 bracket…. I’d get a new one if needed anyway.
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