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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I pulled the 300 into my shop for the winter to give it all the maintenance and a number of upgrades that I want to try or I think will make the bike much more enjoyable to ride. I’ll make a quick list of what I’m going to do and any tips or suggestions on parts is welcome.

Maintenance: valve check, spark plugs etc. I’ll re-grease my steering stem bearings (already upgraded) and pull the swingarm and grease that and the shock linkage.

Brakes: Stainless brake lines, new front rotor/pads (oem rotor is warped) and new rear pads. I’ll also pull apart both calipers and clean them thoroughly.

Ecu flash and Sprint air filter (I’m keeping the stock exhaust

New seat (the stock seat is not that comfy and jams me into the tank).

Quick shifter: I could honestly do without one but I’ve never had a bike with one and want to try it so why not?

Suspension: Ohlin’s cartridges for the forks and a Gsxr600 rear shock. I already have the gsxr shock on now but I bought a spare that I intend to send to Traxxion Dynamics for a full rebuild and hopefully they can work some magic on the shock valving? I do need to find a way to keep the stock handlebars with the added height of the Ohlins fork caps.
That’s about it, I’ll add pics and updates as I do things but any advice on which parts/brands like brake pads, seat or anything will help.
I’ve got the fairings off so first thing will be the valve check. I’ve ordered new gaskets as my valve cover gasket is dried out and has a few small cracks starting
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I forgot to mention, I'll add a Yoshimura fender eliminator and I need to replace the battery. The battery still works but my bike is a 2016 and it still has the original Kawasaki battery. I thought I had a Yuasa battery but I was mistaken. Anyway it's getting old so I want to get a new one before it dies.

On the Valve clearance check, do I need to drain the coolant before I can remove the cylinder head cover? The manual says to drain it but the couple videos I've watched and write-ups I found I don't think they mentioned draining the coolant?
 

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Good job! You've got your hands really full for the winter.

I did drain the coolant when I did the valves.
I wouldn't rush to replace the OEM battery. Mine lasted 8 years.
On the stock handlebars, I guess you either raise them with spacers or cut a hole in the top to let the cartridges top go through. Second option is to get clip ons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good job! You've got your hands really full for the winter.

I did drain the coolant when I did the valves.
I wouldn't rush to replace the OEM battery. Mine lasted 8 years.
On the stock handlebars, I guess you either raise them with spacers or cut a hole in the top to let the cartridges top go through. Second option is to get clip ons.
Thanks, I will drain the coolant. I guess the oem battery is good quality! Maybe I'll keep it and save a few bucks then. With the handlebars, that's exactly what I was thinking. Try to get the inside of the handlebars milled out the extra 5mm or buy a set of spacers and have them milled down the 5mm or so. I also have some Ex500 dog bones that are 10mm shorter than the 300's so that should raise the rear of the bike an inch or so allowing me to drop the forks a little to level it back out.
I have a 150/60-17 Rosso 3 to mount that will drop the rear almost an inch allowing me to raise the rear (and lower the forks, raising the front) without adding much height. If this all makes sense haha. In my brain in does lol It'll work somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I dod check according to a tire size calculator it should lower it a little more than a half inch (I had to check again lol) but I actually want to raise the entire bike just a little without upsetting the geometry too much. I’m 6’ tall and I could use a little more height even though it makes no dofference when actually riding the bike. A better seat should help as well.
It will take some messing around but I’ll get there in the end… I hope haha. I can make my own dogbones if the Ex500 links won’t work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I found what I believe is a better way to fit a Gsxr600 shock also. On my first one I did what everyone does and filed down the clevis but I didn’t feel good about it really. There is no way to file it perfectly flat and straight so when you bolt it to the linkage who knows what kind of weird stress it’s under.
I found that the bushing in the linkage for the 300 is 12.1x20x32mm and the Gsxr shock clevis requires a bushing that is 30mm long.
It turns out that the Vulcan 900 uses a 12.1x20x30mm bushing so all I need to do now is reduce the width of the actual linkage itself (where no force or stress is put). Hard to explain but I can add photos when it’s done.
For the top of the shock I am using bushings that reduce the holes in the frame to fit the oem Suzuki bolt. The only mods needed for the shock to fit was cutting the airbox flap as usual and drilling the bottom clevis holes to fit the M12 ninja bolt.
I’ve had it in the back of my mind since installing the gscr shock that it will be a bad day if that clevis decides to implode lol.
I spent 4 hours with various files and took my time but it is just impossible to files both sides square by hand
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I removed the entire exhaust, and both calipers. Disassembled them and got them cleaned and ready to rebuild.
Has anyone used the All Balls caliper rebuild kits? I’ve used their master cylinder rebuild kit in the past and it seemed fine. My plan was to only replace the piston seals with oem but it comes to over $70 JUST for 8 oem seals. I can get both kits front and rear from All Balls and replace all of the rubber parts and the pins.
Also what are people buying for brake pads?
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For the rear, OEM organic is fine for me ($30). For the front caliper, I use EBC HH sintered. Great bite. I have a semi floating EBC rotor in the front. I'm sure that helps too.

In the past, I've used the Vesrah RJL, which are nice. They sound weird and have little grip when cold, but work great once they warm up, even with stock rotor. They lasted very little though and are expensive. I don't use them anymore because I upgraded the caliper to the CBR600 caliper (4 pistons), and I couldn't find the Vesrah for those calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys, I’ll order the Ebc HH pads. I have HH pads on my dirtbike (converted to supermoto) and they work well on that. Going to go with the same rotor as you Topaz since my front rotor is warped. To be honest the brakes seemed fine already so they should be really good all freshened up with new pads/rotor and steel lines. Does the oem master cylinder work when you upgrade the caliper or do you need a larger master as well? How much better does that feel over oem?
 

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I didn't change the MC. I did the line and rotor first, and sometime later did the caliper. The change that made the most difference for me was the caliper.
All that in the front brake only. I didn't change anything in the rear brake. I don't use it in the track and on the street is fine as it is for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks, I guess now would be the time to decide if I want to upgrade my caliper before I buy a kit to rebuild the stock caliper and put it back on the bike. I did check e-bay for Sv 1000 calipers but the only ones on there are beat to death. I’ll think it pver and see what I end up with.
 

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The few times I bought OEM take off parts from eBay, I got the feeling I was gambling.

If the seller is a business that buys bikes to sell the parts, they usually don't inspect the parts and don't know the condition of the part, so they put some pictures and say "part sold as is. See the picture for condition", which for me is the same as saying nothing. What can a picture tell you about the condition of a used part? And they never answered any of the questions I asked because they just don't know.
However, if the seller is someone who upgraded his own bike and see the take off part is worth something and nicely list it on eBay for cheap, then usually there is a description, they answer your questions and I feel I kind of know what I'm buying. But those are rare. Most of the pars on eBay come from the first type of seller.

So, the two times I got take off parts for the N300 I got the cheapest I could find and hoped it would work, but I was ready to throw the part away and get another one if it didn't. I got the stator and the CBR600 caliper and in both cases, it went well,
I paid $60 for the stator when the average price for a take-off was over $100 and paid $20 for the caliper when some guys were asking as much as 120 for one.

When I got the caliper, it was so dirty I thought it was trash. I cleaned it and was going to rebuild it, but after cleaning it, it looked much better and decided to try it without a rebuild. It worked good enough for me, so I kept it like that.

The stator was a take-off from a 2015. I looked good when I received it. Now it has been in my bike for almost three years and 5k miles. No problems.

Another thing that I saw is that some take off parts sellers list their parts at very high prices, but they don't sell them and the ad sits forever. Then some new ads appear with better prices, and they don't last long. So, if you can wait some days, set an alert on eBay and see what shows up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That's what I'll do, thanks. I'll keep my eye out and see what shows up on ebay. I buy lots of used parts on there but like you said it is a gamble. In the case of buying a caliper, I'll try to find one in good condition with the "make an offer" and then lowball the hell out of him expecting It'll cost another $30+ to rebuild.
Do you know what year cbr600 calipers fit the SV Racing bracket? On their site it says the bracket is for the Tokico but I know some Nissan will fit. I'd rather have a Nissan if I can.
Also I'm guessing stock length Ninja 300 steel line will still fit fine? Thanks for your help!
 

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I don't know what calipers work with the SV plate, but the list is in their site. Mine is a Nissin from a 2001 CBR600F.
Yes for the line. My steel line is for a N300, non ABS. I don't know if there is difference between ABS or NON ABS.
I was able to keep the stock banjo bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Mine is Non-abs as well. Are you using the sv racing bracket? The list of calipers they give that work are all Sv1000, and some years gsxr600/750’s (they are all the same Tokico’s it says). It doesn’t mention any Nissan. Thanks for the help!
Got my linkage squared away to work with the Gsxr600 shock without widening the shock clevis.
Used a 2007 Vulcan 900 bushing (same dimensions as oem but 30mm long instead of 32mm). A quick sand down of the linkage on a bench sander and it fits nice. The good thing is where you need to sand on the linkage isn’t really structural sonce the clevis bolts to the steel bushing so no need to fret about it too much. So the only mod the shock itself need is to enlarge the clevis holes for m12 bolt (I’m using bushings for the top mount that I can show when I remove my other shock if anyone cares). I bought a spare linkage on ebay for $16 to modify so I still have my oem linkage. Hope the pictures help explain what I mean lol.
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