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In my 600 I only used Amsoil, I had a friend that got me a good deal on a full case of it.. But once its gone, everything I own will be Mobile 1.

Not sure why, I choose that, just one of those weird things I do for no reason what so ever haha
 

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I use Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W40. Lots of riders swear by the stuff. I've used it in all my bikes for years. Readily available at Walmart on sale occasionally for $19 a gallon, otherwise about $21. It has the JASO MA rating which is recommended by most motorcycles too, although it is not marketed as a motorcycle oil and there's no picture of a motorcycle on the oil jug. I would not be afraid to use any synthetic oil by a major company though. Really, you wouldn't expect a problem no matter what oil you used if you changed it regularly, right? I wouldn't be afraid to use the Walmart 10W40 dino car oil at under $3 a quart with regular riding.
 

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Someone was telling me about Rotella and how cheap it is and I went to Walmart and could not find anything for a motorcycle, so that makes since.

Do most car oils have everything needed to to make a motorcycle run smoothly and correctly?? I have never done any research on this before. I would of assumed there are alot of additives and such in motorcycle oil because of clutch..

But I would love to use a car oil in a motorcycle, as it is SO MUCH cheaper.. I pay $12+ per quart for motorcycle oil and less than $20 a gallon for car oil..
 

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Im not sure of this topic either, I would like to make life simple and use car stuff. I have used mobile 1 synthetic (gold label) im my cars since day one, and have had no problems, matter of fact, its been the most reliable car ive owned, at 150k with no break downs or dealer fixes, all original, besides battery
 

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The JAMO is a Japanese motorcyle rating. I guess they just expect you to know this when they put the JAMO MA rating on the Rotella T6 meaning it is formulated to be safe for wet clutches in motorcycles.

The oil the dealer puts in is strictly based on either where he gets his oil cheapest or subsidized. Kawa uses Kawa oil, Honda uses Honda oil, etc. Aprilia/Vespa puts Eni Agip 5W40 synthetic oil in EVERYTHING from the factory. The Sportcity 50 cc scooter to the Tuono V4 all get the same oil. I hope this tells you something, namely, that there are lots of good oils out there and opinions are often motivated by salesmen, not science. Basically a synthetic is a better choice than dino oil due to it's resistence to breakdown, and as long as you stay away from the "Energy Conserving" oil which can cause the clutch to slip, you will be fine. Amsoil, Mobil, Shell, Royal Purple, Pennsoil, Motul...it's all good stuff.
 

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Question: What about the oil already in the bike upon purchase? I know that when I had my car purchased at the lot, I had brought a 5qt of mobile one synthetic, and had them drain and replace the oil, before I even left. What about the bike? Should I use the oil thats in it, till that first marker (500mi. or whatever ), and then go to Mobil 1 racing 4t? OR should I have the oil drained before mile no. 1 and have the synthetic put in right away?
 

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In my opionion, what ever kawasaki puts in it from that factory will do me till my first oil change, which I am about to do at 500 km to the mobile 1 4t, it's the dealers oil I don't want put in, which at my dealer I belive is some mineral based or semi syn motul,

But mobile 1 4t 10w40 fully syn is def the stuff ill be using
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The mix that they put in for the first fillup should be specially formulated for break in. I would let that oil be in the bike until the break in is over and follow up with my oil of choice.
 

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I use whatever synthetic of the correct weight WITHOUT friction modifiers. That is why you can't use some car specific oils in bikes.
 
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