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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i had to go to work got up a little late turned on my bike and i warmed it up just a bit and took of got to a stop sign and the bike turned off started back up and it was fine jumped on to the free way and after a mile or so turned off on me pulled to the side i was by harley Davidson and i pushed it there they told me it might be my battery so i missioners to the closes place for a battery put the batttery on and it wont turn on had to tow it back to the house and it doesn't wanna start what do you guys think it could be please help i need the bike to get to work !!
 

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Hello, and welcome to the forum!

The cause of a running & moving bike turning off by itself is what needs to be investigated. Although the battery might have been bad, I doubt that would be the root cause, as there is a stator (aka alternator, generator, coil, etc) supplying electricity whilst the bike is running.

Since you now have a new battery, the first thing is to make sure that battery is actually fully charged. If the bike still won't start with a fully charged battery, there would have to be another reason for the bike not starting (and stopping while running).
You'd have to look into the whole ignition system, and fuel delivery system, etc.

#1 questions right now:
What happens when you turn the ignition key? Does it crank (does the starter turn over?)
 

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(SNIP)
Since you now have a new battery, the first thing is to make sure that battery is actually fully charged. If the bike still won't start with a fully charged battery, there would have to be another reason for the bike not starting (and stopping while running).
You'd have to look into the whole ignition system, and fuel delivery system, etc.

#1 questions right now:
What happens when you turn the ignition key? Does it crank (does the starter turn over?)
My thought as well.

Just because it's "new" doesn't mean it's charged.

You need to read the battery voltage to know its basic condition, but there are still additional tests to know if it's working properly.

As MAL noted - what does it do when you turn on the ignition and hit the button?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hello, and welcome to the forum!

The cause of a running & moving bike turning off by itself is what needs to be investigated. Although the battery might have been bad, I doubt that would be the root cause, as there is a stator (aka alternator, generator, coil, etc) supplying electricity whilst the bike is running.

Since you now have a new battery, the first thing is to make sure that battery is actually fully charged. If the bike still won't start with a fully charged battery, there would have to be another reason for the bike not starting (and stopping while running).
You'd have to look into the whole ignition system, and fuel delivery system, etc.

#1 questions right now:
What happens when you turn the ignition key? Does it crank (does the starter turn over?)


Okay ima take in the battery again to make sure its fully charged and see if that helps out when I turn the key all it does is make a clicking sound to the relay the lights turn on and everything just clicks from the relays i changed all fuses cleaned all connections and nothing its confusing
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My thought as well.

Just because it's "new" doesn't mean it's charged.

You need to read the battery voltage to know its basic condition, but there are still additional tests to know if it's working properly.

As MAL noted - what does it do when you turn on the ignition and hit the button?
.

All it does is click from the relay i took tge starter and starter cleaned it and nothing i dont get it i reallg dont my first bike annd its a headache
 

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Clicking. Okay, that's good information.

If it only clicks, it means that either there's not enough "juice", i.e. battery not charged, OR bad connections to the starter and/or battery, OR a bad starter motor....at least that's a good start for where to look....

You'll get there...

Maybe there's multiple issues going on at the same time here....e.g. bad stator not charging battery which made the old battery go bad, and the new battery isn't actually charged.
 

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From the sound of it, most likely your battery is not fully charged. As MAL noted, there can be a few reasons for that.

I would get an inexpensive multimeter so you can check it yourself. A meter and a small charger are just a couple of the basic tools you should have in your toolbox.

As a motorcycle rider, you need to be able to solve problems and fix reasonably simple issues yourself. It's much more important to identify a problem early with a cycle than a car. Maintenance is much more directly related to your safety.

Maintenance items like tire condition, tire pressure, chain adjustment, fluid levels, etc. are all things that need to be checked regularly - without taking it to a shop.

We can help you, but you will need tools.

For right now, a multimeter will most likely give you some answers.
 

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Batteries survive max 4 years depending on # of highway bumps. Immediately buy a trickle charger n keep it on the new battery. After 24 hours check voltage with a digital meter. Must be 14.5 volts running, 12.5 volts with key off or wont run ECU or crank. Walmart sells both cheap. Clean battery terminals with wire brush n cover with vaseline or battery protectant spray also at walmart. Check all fuses, some may be hidden IDK read service manual. Check all electrical plugs by pressing them together hard, easy to disconnect if anything yanks on them, like handlebars at full lock, maintenence, tank bags, mods etc. Buy shop manual DVD on amazon. Squirt wd40 into ignition lock, probably zero effect but makes u feel better n repells rain n prevents icing in winter. How much was the tow? Best to befriend anyone with a pickup n buy your own asap, or trailer, thats part of owning a bike imho.

My 300 was preowned, scared the heck outa me 4 years old, time for lota maintenence. Havent replaced battery so i carry lightweight tiny jump battery in backpack. Bought $200 tires today only 5,000 miles on stock squared off. Having to rebuy all my tools after divorce 8 years ago, still dont have a pickup so call neighbor but his diesel keeps derating DEF POS n barely got truck to dealer to pick up bike after purchase, he followed me home with his bike ramps in case it broke. My old ford ranger had horrible starter issues same as u described, 3 dealers unable to find fault after replacing everything, left me stranded out of state, sold it as a lemon. Dont buy a ford truck, ive heard horror stories like $35,000 engine replacement plus cost of truck.

My new Triumph Daytona 600 had similar starter issues, catching on fire, had to replace charging system with uprated alternator n heavier wiring harness. Thats not an issue with Ninja 300. Wrong tires from Triumph made it unridable imo til i changed from pirelli diablos to dunlops. Very frustrating but once i got it dyno tuned it was perfect like a new race motor n more reliable at starting.

Welcome to zen n the art of motorcycle maintence mortal combat.
 

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Batteries survive max 4 years depending on # of highway bumps.
Tell that to the 6 year old battery in my N300 that's still going strong.
Or the OEM battery from my Honda that only gave out after almost 8 years of service.
Each bike had spent at least one winter outside literally frozen to the ground and in a snowbank (Atlantic Canada winters, several freeze-thaw cycles too) without a charger on them, but most years were stored inside on a tender.
I've never heard of a battery lasting LESS than 4 years...
 

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Tell that to the 6 year old battery in my N300 that's still going strong.
Or the OEM battery from my Honda that only gave out after almost 8 years of service.
Each bike had spent at least one winter outside literally frozen to the ground and in a snowbank (Atlantic Canada winters, several freeze-thaw cycles too) without a charger on them, but most years were stored inside on a tender.
I've never heard of a battery lasting LESS than 4 years...
I've experienced both.

The OEM Yuasa battery in my 2006 SV650 went 8 years, and it still wasn't completely junk when I replaced it with another Yuasa.

I've had decent auto batteries quit within 4 years as well. Went into a store for 10 minutes and came out to a completely dead battery - no lights - nothing.

There are no guarantees. They may just quit at any time.
 

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I had this problem and the cause for me was slightly corroded start switch (on handlebars) contacts

Disassemble and if needed clean with very fine sandpaper

Cheers
 

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I'm currently having the same problem. Mine is currently back at the place I bought it. At first we tried battery replacement, but with an older replacement battery and a new one I bought after a few days with both it still died. I've read through the forums and it seems that it might be either the regulator, or the stator which seem to be common problems with the Ninja. I mean I really hope it's just wiring but i'm not banking on it. My other hope is that it's just the regulator and not the stator since the regulator isn't as costly.
 

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When my stator went bad, the red battery light on the cluster turned on, I kept riding (bad idea), and ten minutes later the cluster started to flick, the lights went off and the engine shut down.
 
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