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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I’m wanting to know how these bikes should be set up from a geometry point of view. What is recommended for amount of mm the fork tubes stick up out of the upper triple tree? How should I set up the angle for the clip ons? My bike is already a track prepped bike but I need to set baseline for geometry.

Thanks
 

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I would say the geometry setting would be secondary to the suspension settings.

Do you have the correct fork springs and oil for your weight and track use, as well as a race-quality rear shock with the proper spring?

If so, setting proper sag front and rear would be the first thing to do. Then ride it. I don't think you will need any significant adjustments to the geometry. Raising the tubes in the clamps will make it steer quicker, which you shouldn't need, as the lightweight little Ninja will turn-in easy enough.

Set-up the angle of the clip-ons so they are comfortable for you, and don't put any strain on your wrist. Make sure they can't hit the tank. Not just so it won't dent the tank, but so you couldn't get your hand injured in the event of an “event”.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would say the geometry setting would be secondary to the suspension settings.

Do you have the correct fork springs and oil for your weight and track use, as well as a race-quality rear shock with the proper spring?

If so, setting proper sag front and rear would be the first thing to do. Then ride it. I don't think you will need any significant adjustments to the geometry. Raising the tubes in the clamps will make it steer quicker, which you shouldn't need, as the lightweight little Ninja will turn-in easy enough.

Set-up the angle of the clip-ons so they are comfortable for you, and don't put any strain on your wrist. Make sure they can't hit the tank. Not just so it won't dent the tank, but so you couldn't get your hand injured in the event of an “event”.
My bike has the Traxxion cartridges in the front and rebound/preload is pretty good now. The rear is a Penske. They are set up for 170-180lbs which is prefect for my weight. I’ll need to reset sag and chain tension over the winter as I drop weight but I should be fine with the weight. I rode the bike as is (since I bought it in May). I did 3 track weekends on the bike to get familiar. My times improved but it’s time to get it set up for next year.
 

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I played a bit with that just to feel the changes. I'm intermediate track rider. I never felt comfortable with the stock riding position.

Some time ago, I dropped the front about 10mm, a bit less I'd say. It looked to me that you can't go much lower than that before the fairings touch the fender. The difference was little. Felt a bit better to me.
My rear is still stock (working on it right now). But I've heard many going up about an inch to get a better feeling. More reactive steering and easier to turn in.

My clip on's are the Woodcraft with raisers. Right now, I have them all the way up, touching the top triple which is the only position that the fairings allow me without cutting anything, But I'd like to chew up a bit on the fairings to place them lower and more closed. I'm 5'9" tall.

I don't have fully adjustable rear sets. I have the Yoshi brackets that allow you to go a notch backwards and a notch up.

Yeah, definitely have fun with it until you find what works better for you. That's what I'm doing. I'm no expert, so I go on try and error. Let us know what worked for you.

Did you keep the stock height when you changed the shock? Stock seat height for the n300 is 785mm. I don't know at what part of the seat is that measured.
 

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What don't you like about the handling now? Does it seem sluggish? Raising the tubes will quicken the steering. Are your front and rear spring rates and ride heights correct?

As Topaz noted - did the rear shock alter the ride height?

I would set the sag, ride it, and see what changes need to be made.
 
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