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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks!

My N300 is coming around on 41k miles, and needs a bunch of love. Dropping the whole motor for a thorough cleaning, new rings, and a bunch of other overdue maintenance items.
Anyway, I got the throttle bodies off last night, and obviously they need cleaning. I've seen a bunch of videos and tutorials online about cleaning TBs, mostly while it's still on the engine. But I've got mine out, and I really wanna clean it all up, inside and out, and make it like new. Couple questions for you folks who have done this...

-Should I take the injectors out and clean them separately? And clean with what?
-The exterior of my TB's is quite dirty, obviously way more than the inside. Is there any reason I can't douse the whole thing in TB cleaner? Should I remove the injectors first? Remove hoses and rubber pieces or no?
-I wouldn't mind taking it apart for sure, to maybe do a real good cleaning and inspection, but if that is too excessive, then saving time would be nice.

I want this thing CLEAN. The whole bike/frame/engine/airbox is just totally gunked up from road grime and spilled fluids and stuff, and some leaks. I plan on it going back together spotless. Just never done work on TB's before, so any "do's and dont's" would be great.

Any tips?
Thanks fellas.

-Mike
 

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Nice! I don't know anything about TB cleaning, sorry, but I'd love to see pictures and comments of your job. And what special you needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice! I don't know anything about TB cleaning, sorry, but I'd love to see pictures and comments of your job. And what special you needed.
For sure! I'll document the process. I have yet to pull the engine out, been lazy/busy, and still need some wood and a rolling platform. So far though, I am pleased to find that every bolt is coming out with ease, no seized/stripped out bolts so far. Probably never taken out before by previous owners in most cases. Should be an easy rebuild.

-Mike
 

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if your TBs are dirty... I would be checking the intake tract for leaks. Otherwise a wipe down with carb cleaner and lubrication of the linkage is all thats required.
On the injectors... the only way to properly clean them is with a flow test machine. But before I wasted any money on that I would look and see if there is a better atomizing
unit available (more holes). Typically a cleaned & flowed injector costs about $25 each.
Injector Service (used these guys for years and their tech has always been spot on!!)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
TurboBlew, Nice to know! My TBs were not very dirty inside, but more outside than anything. I just wanted to clean them all up, they required no real maintenance at this point as far as I can tell. I may look into getting the injectors tested though, maybe if I am seeing a cylinder running lean or something when I get into the motor. I know from before I had some mixed spark plug readings after track season a few years ago, so I may have some dirty injectors, we'll see.

I have been lazy, but hopefully in a day or so I will recruit a buddy to drop the engine out and get started. Hopefully the weather becomes crappy so I feel better about working on the bike as opposed to having it in piece in my garage on nice days lol.

-Mike
 

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Berrymans is your inexpensive friend here. Works better than seaJunk.
Or you can use a 9 volt battery to cycle the injector while running Berrymans (or carb cleaner) thru it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Gotcha. I got the engine out the other day, its on my desk in my bedroom. Lol.

Throttle bodies are all nice and clean. Mostly gunk on the outside, but looking pretty fresh. Injectors were spotless, so I'm leaving em. Should run great.

I am trying to get my cylinder head off currently. Those M8 hex bolts holding the cyl head on the engine are TIGHT. 6/7 of them broke free relatively easily, but theres a 7th one, deep into the head behind the cam chain area, and my breaker bar hex bit does not fit down in there. So I'll have to buy another bit. I might have slightly stripped a different smaller bit I had trying to get it out, hopefully the bolt is alright, but worst comes to worst, I'd cut the head off the stud. Really don't want to, just hope a good, strong, tight tolerance bit will get er out with no struggle, then I'll replace the stud.

Hopefully then, I should be able to do the job I set out to do in the first place, replace the rings and hone the cylinders. My local shop said he'd hone em on the cheap if I bring in just the cylinder block.

My whole motor is pretty dirty, anyone recommend a light cleaner/solvent to clean the exterior of my engine? I was thinking simple green for just the dust/goo, but theres some real crusty stuff by the sprocket and stuff baked on the oil pan, the lower crankcase half, and back side of the motor.

Excited to keep the project rolling, will probably order my parts bundle here soon, and start putting things back together. Maybe start a project thread as well when I get to the putting it back together stage.

-Mike
 
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