Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've been experiencing electrical issues that are supposedly indicative of either a voltage regulator or stator failure. I took it into a dealership for an estimate and they said it would be roughly 700 dollars plus labor (120 an hour) for diagnosing the problem, parts, and solving the problem.

Now being a fresh college student with not that much money I immediately said "Fuck that" and took it home to diagnose the problem.

We knew the battery was fine because it read ~12 without a load and was cleared by the Batteries+ we purchased it from only a few months ago. We tested the idle voltage, in which it went up to around 12.5, and when revving the engine up to around 4k-5k RPM it didn't move from there. Pretty much confirmed to me that the stator was the issue. We disassembled everything to the alternator cover, took it off, and low and behold see the pictures attached. Looks like one of the contacts on the stator is fucked, and some of the corrosion spilt over onto the coils it was connected to.

I'm not taking it back to the dealership because I've come this far, and don't feel like dishing out that ridiculous amount of cash for something I did in just a few hours. Any part recommendations or questions regarding the original issue are 100% welcome. I'm looking to do the repair myself.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
533 Posts
Hello, and welcome to the forum.

Looks like you did a good job finding a problem with the stator.

OEM part number seems to be: STATOR 21003-0128
Some considerably cheaper versions (non OEM) on eBay for about ~U$65, it seems. No idea how good they are though....

Do you think there's anything else wrong (e.g. the rotor for instance)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hello, and welcome to the forum.

Looks like you did a good job finding a problem with the stator.

OEM part number seems to be: STATOR 21003-0128
Some considerably cheaper versions (non OEM) on eBay for about ~U$65, it seems. No idea how good they are though....

Do you think there's anything else wrong (e.g. the rotor for instance)?
Well this is my first time digging around this deep on her, so I was mainly looking for clear physical damage to the electrical system. As far as I know the immediate engine interior under the alternator cover, the wiring all throughout the bike, and any of the other major possibilities appear undamaged. I haven’t found or checked the voltage regulator because it seems that the battery readout isn’t consistent with a voltage regulator failure from what I’ve read.

I probably don’t want to purchase the 65 dollar one on ebay, just because I’d rather be on the safer side with quality. Do you know any good aftermarkets or an OEM supplier? Dealership told me 400 is the cheapest stator on the market which is bullshit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
I just looked up a stator on Revzilla's OEM parts site and it listed part # 21003-0128 at $418.28 and currently out of stock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I just looked up a stator on Revzilla's OEM parts site and it listed part # 21003-0128 at $418.28 and currently out of stock.
Hot damn, that's a lot of money. Should I only be looking for OEM or would a quality aftermarket part do the trick?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
533 Posts
Hot damn, that's a lot of money. Should I only be looking for OEM or would a quality aftermarket part do the trick?
It will be very difficult to discern which aftermarket/non-OEM version is good and which isn't.

OEM = ~$410 (dealer wasn't lying)
non-OEM = ~$40 to $60+ (problem: a $150 aftermarket version isn't necessarily better than a $50 one!)

Not an easy decision, if money is tight! :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I'm not worried about spending the extra money honestly, I'm more concerned with my personal safety and the safety of everyone on the road with me. If I can get a quality stator that works just as good as OEM for cheaper, that would be great.

As for OEM, what do you guys think about this: Kawasaki GENERATOR Ninja 300 EX300AFSA Diagram
It's $350, so an OEM cheaper than the suggested retail of $418.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
I replaced the stator my self on my 2013 N300 some months ago. Some things I learned in the process:
2013's seem to burn the stator early, so if you get a take off, try to get one that comes from a 2014 or later.
There were several OEM take off's on eBay for $140 circa. It took me some days to decide what to get and then an OEM stator from a 2015 bike showed up on ebay for $65. I took it right away. It's been on my bike for six months / 1000 miles and no issues so far. So I guess those stator for over $100 are not moving. If you're not hurry, you may save some bucks there.

I also found this aftermarket:
I did some research and found it had good reviews. If I was going to pay $100+, I'd had this instead of a OEM take off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I replaced the stator my self on my 2013 N300 some months ago. Some things I learned in the process:
2013's seem to burn the stator early, so if you get a take off, try to get one that comes from a 2014 or later.
There were several OEM take off's on eBay for $140 circa. It took me some days to decide what to get and then an OEM stator from a 2015 bike showed up on ebay for $65. I took it right away. It's been on my bike for six months / 1000 miles and no issues so far. So I guess those stator for over $100 are not moving. If you're not hurry, you may save some bucks there.

I also found this aftermarket:
I did some research and found it had good reviews. If I was going to pay $100+, I'd had this instead of a OEM take off.
Thanks for the suggestion!

It looks like the stator you recommended also has a 1 year warranty, so that's probably what I'm going to go with.

As a final question, is there anything special that I should be doing during the installation of the new stator? Potentially alignment, maybe a test to see if the unit is good or not before I put it all back together?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
^^ Not that I know. I just replaced the stator. Didn't touch anything else at that time.

I made the mistake to buy a new gasket before seeing the old one, which was in perfect shape after 7 years/13k miles. I reused the old one, which held very well so far, and kept the new one as spare.

You will need 'liquid gasket' too to seal the outlet of the stator cables. I got this:
by recommendation from a savvy guy on the other forum.
You will need just a bit, so if you find a smaller tube or someone around who can give you a bit, you can save a couple of bucks there.

With the stator not on the bike you can only test continuity. Then, when you mount it you can test the voltage output.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
I have replaced the stator on on just about every gixxer I have owned. I took it too the shop the 1st time and paid allot of money!!! The same bike a year later the stator wires melted and I replaced the stator and rectifier myself and used EBAY parts for under 100 bucks for both. I have replaced both the stator and rectifier on 2 other gixxer’s and on 2 friends gixxer’s as well with EBAY replacements for under 100 bucks. I have EBAY replacement stator and rectifier on my current gixxer 600 that has lasted for 4 years so far. Gixxer’s are known to have this issue, so it’s not a matter of if but when you will replace the stator/rectifier. Not a hard job specially when you have done it several times! 😎😎😎
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
How handy are you with a soldering iron? That can be repaired.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
^^ Not that I know. I just replaced the stator. Didn't touch anything else at that time.

I made the mistake to buy a new gasket before seeing the old one, which was in perfect shape after 7 years/13k miles. I reused the old one, which held very well so far, and kept the new one as spare.

You will need 'liquid gasket' too to seal the outlet of the stator cables. I got this:
by recommendation from a savvy guy on the other forum.
You will need just a bit, so if you find a smaller tube or someone around who can give you a bit, you can save a couple of bucks there.

With the stator not on the bike you can only test continuity. Then, when you mount it you can test the voltage output.
Thanks for the tip, I'll pick this up or something like it.

I have replaced the stator on on just about every gixxer I have owned. I took it too the shop the 1st time and paid allot of money!!! The same bike a year later the stator wires melted and I replaced the stator and rectifier myself and used EBAY parts for under 100 bucks for both. I have replaced both the stator and rectifier on 2 other gixxer’s and on 2 friends gixxer’s as well with EBAY replacements for under 100 bucks. I have EBAY replacement stator and rectifier on my current gixxer 600 that has lasted for 4 years so far. Gixxer’s are known to have this issue, so it’s not a matter of if but when you will replace the stator/rectifier. Not a hard job specially when you have done it several times! 😎😎😎
Yeah, I'm not too worried about my mechanical prowess. It's just my first time doing this, and the manual is pretty vague, so I was curious if there was any special procedures that I have to go through. I'm rolling with the liquid gasket that was suggested by Topaz, so I think that I'm good :)

How handy are you with a soldering iron? That can be repaired.
I'm sure that I could pick it up quickly. I already purchased a replacement - the aftermarket part suggested earlier - but I would be interested in knowing the repair. Would come in handy, and I would have a spare at hand. What would the process be like?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
. What would the process be like?
[/QUOTE]

It is probably as simple as unwrapping the wire with the insulation failure back to clean wire cleaning, tinning the new end and soldering it back down to the pad. worst case $4 in magnet wire and re-wrap it. I have re-wrapped dozens of stators, and starter motors and generators mostly for hard to find pre-unit British stuff that you can't get on eBay or get Chinese copies of.

There are dozens of videos on You Tube about re-wrapping stators,
 
  • Like
Reactions: JFMNINJA300

·
Registered
Joined
·
533 Posts
It is probably as simple as unwrapping the wire with the insulation failure back to clean wire cleaning, tinning the new end and soldering it back down to the pad. worst case $4 in magnet wire and re-wrap it. I have re-wrapped dozens of stators, and starter motors and generators mostly for hard to find pre-unit British stuff that you can't get on eBay or get Chinese copies of.

There are dozens of videos on You Tube about re-wrapping stators,
Is there a process of TESTING the repair before installation; i.e. a way to TEST the proper function of the stator?

Because I would NOT recommend someone not having done this before trying soldering for the first time on this stator otherwise. It's just too much hassle to put it all back together, filling it with oil, etc. only to find it still doesn't work. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Is there a process of TESTING the repair before installation;

A multimeter..., and it sounds like there will be a known good one to compare it too.... Won't even need to do the transformer math. If you don't want any hassle in your life sell the motorcycle and take an Uber. Personally if I'm above ground and turning a wrench I'm having a good day, even if I fail every so often.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
533 Posts
A multimeter..., and it sounds like there will be a known good one to compare it too.... Won't even need to do the transformer math. If you don't want any hassle in your life sell the motorcycle and take an Uber. Personally if I'm above ground and turning a wrench I'm having a good day, even if I fail every so often.
(bolding mine)

That's a little harsh.
I wasn't suggesting not to do one's own maintenance and/or repairs, but merely pointing out that learning how to solder/rewind a stator off a motorcycle might not be the best course-of-action for OP.
And delaying the install of the new stator to have a 'comparison piece of equipment' is also not something I'd recommend.

Keeping the old stator and fiddling around with it AFTER the new stator is installed, and the bike is working properly again, sounds like a good plan, however.....IMHO.
OP did a GREAT job in identifying this issue with the stator, and undoubtedly has the aptitude to repair the broken stator at a later stage, and keep it as a spare! 👍
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
And I am suggesting that the knowledge is ALWAYS worth the frustration. If it was easy, we wouldn't be having a conversation about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Okay guys/gals. Here's the update.

The new stator is in! Me and a few pals installed it, did some continuity tests on it to ensure it wasn't shorting, etc. Refilled the engine with oil, and started her up to a few problems.

#1 the starter sounds very loud now, although my bud with more mechanical experience than me said that because we didn't have the engine running for very long the starter could just be dry.
#2 HUGE FUCKING LEAK of coolant from one of the water pipes, the one above the pump, not one coming from the left side radiator. Friend suggested it could be a bad gasket, but I'd imagine even with the old gasket it wouldn't pour out like that :(

Other than that, everything else seemed fine?

Took the old stator out and have it sealed in a plastic bag for further testing later - thanks both tracyt and MAL for that information. Any tips as to what I should do next?

quick edit: Was told that an o-ring was the issue in the water pipe? Any credibility on that one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Did you take off the pump cover? Most bikes say you should clean the gasket surfaces and use new liquid gasket when putting that back on. Check the water hoses too, I found out when messing with my thermostat that the hose clamps should be quite tight actually. I had leaking, and I just didn't know how cranked on those hose clamps needed to be. I know you said its not the hose going to the radiator, but it's worth a look.

Not to make you sound stupid, (because I have done plenty of absolutely stupid stuff working on my bikes) but quadruple check that everything actually went back into the bike, the right way, and that you didn't forget to tighten anything. And that when you take off the stator cover, it's not full of coolant somehow. This is coming from the guy who accidentally filled his crankcase with coolant during a valve job and other jobs, so trust me it can be worse lol.

When you are experimenting with water leaks, I'd just use distilled water to not waste good coolant, and prevent more stuff from getting inside the engine where it shouldn't be. Once you can warm the bike up to have the radiator fan come on with no leaks, then fill er up with your choice of coolant.

As for the starter noise, my 300 has sat all winter for a couple months and then started up as perfectly normal as it ever has right after. In my experience it shouldn't make noise normally. Although, mine has made some strange squeals immediately after starting a couple times. BUT, they seemed to be isolated incidents. Seemed worse in the extreme cold, but hasn't made the slightest noise the past year at least.

If it's at all convenient, inspect the gears between the starter and crankshaft. Not uncommon for people to bump the starter button while riding, and very bad things can happen. I wonder if hitting the starter at high engine RPM could somehow nuke the stator due to generated voltage from the starter motor - but I have no facts to back up that being possible, just speculation. There is probably a fuse in there to prevent this, but who knows, maybe hitting the starter while riding could cause a bad short. But I do know that you can very well damage those gears when the engine is spinning like 10x faster than the starter and you mesh those gears.... I'm pretty sure the N300 doesn't protect against hitting the starter while the engine is running, I swear I did it once at idle and it made a sound, but no damage. For that matter, pretty sure most bikes don't protect against that, with the exception of those with the starter built into the kill switch.

Hope this helps.
-Mike
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top