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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just thought I would start a thread about sprockets. I know some of you are new to riding and need to get down the basics first. Then you want ot start with making the bike your own, like we all have a tendency to do.:D First things first, I can assure you one of the best bangs for your buck is sprockets. I have always done two things when I first get a bike. The first is take it to a bike shop in houston which sets up my suspension (look into it, it will improve your riding and confidence in the bike). The next is on a typical sport bike I would do a -1/+2 sprocket set up. That means you go one tooth down on the front sprocket and 2 teeth up on the rear. This translates into an increase in acceleration on the bike. It is a very noticable increase and will only set you back about $75 dollars if you go with a good company like VORTEX. Now when you do this conversion remember your RPMs will be higher while cruising so it takes away form your top end. Something like that on a big CC bike is not a big deal because they can travel 170MPH. On our bikes you may not want to sacrifice top end. But with this bike I am actually going to by 2 sprocket set ups. The first will be the traditional -1/+2 and the next will be a reverse +1/-3. That will give about 5 to 8 MPH faster top end or more depending on conditions (I have to guess at this point, dont have them yet). This will also increase the already outstanding fuel milage form the bike as that will make the cruising RPMs lower at higher speeds. Enough with the long post, I hope I have helped you guys out. I have been around bikes my whole life and have some good info....sometimes.....hope to get more definite numbers soon as I will be ordering the sprockets in a few weeks. I called VORTEX and they can custom make them for us. It doesnt cost any extra. I also had a few years where I stunted and have gotten 75 tooth rear sprockets before......those are only good for slow wheelies, I wouldnt recomend that for a daily riding bike. But anyway, keep in mind that power comanders and exhaust do add to performance but sprockets can give you great value for your dollar and they are easy to install. The standard conversion I talked about does not require you to buy a new chain, the stock will work. I have done it to all of my sport bikes. Stay Safe everyone!!:cool:
 

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I have a +1 front sitting in my tool box that i bought new for the 250r and never installed it because i didn't have the right size socket i should try to install it onto the 300.. When i read reviews about people doing the +1 front and modifying the rear as well they never had anything good to say other than they had zero power. Most stop at a +1 front on these bikes, or should i say at least on the 250. I got my +1 sprocket for $10 shipped on Ebay, can't beat it lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a +1 front sitting in my tool box that i bought new for the 250r and never installed it because i didn't have the right size socket i should try to install it onto the 300.. When i read reviews about people doing the +1 front and modifying the rear as well they never had anything good to say other than they had zero power. Most stop at a +1 front on these bikes, or should i say at least on the 250. I got my +1 sprocket for $10 shipped on Ebay, can't beat it lol
Definately an awesome deal. If you get it installed let me know if it fit. The guy at the dealership couldnt say if they would change out since he didnt have any sprockets in stock to check. If i custom order the one from vortex it is only $20 shipped but if the 250 ones work then I know i can get them cheaper. As for the power these bikes already have a little less than im used to but when I use it to commute I would like to see if i could get outrageous gas milage. Plus on my commute I dont "have" to go faster than 50mph. I wonder if i could get a whole months worth of driving to and from work on one tank....hmmm....ill definately try since the commute is only a few miles a day one way. Might be hard to do with all the riding in between.
 

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I have a +1 front sitting in my tool box that i bought new for the 250r and never installed it because i didn't have the right size socket i should try to install it onto the 300.. When i read reviews about people doing the +1 front and modifying the rear as well they never had anything good to say other than they had zero power. Most stop at a +1 front on these bikes, or should i say at least on the 250. I got my +1 sprocket for $10 shipped on Ebay, can't beat it lol
I did +1 front and I forget what on the rear of my 250 and it reduced engine speed by 1k rpm @ highway speeds. It made 1st gear more useable. It only reduced acceleration a little because lets face it, with the 250 you have to rev really high to accelerate fast anyway. Basically I just have to rev higher before upshifting and it works just as well as stock. I am happy I made the switch as I could not stand constantly doing 10k rpm @ 80mph, whereas I am OK with 9k rpm.

As far as what to do with the 300, it already comes with taller gears than the 250 so I will simply wait and ride it first for a while and see what it is like. I doubt I would go any taller since it allegedly has more normal RPM @ highwar speeds, so maybe a slightly larger rear might be considerable as that would shorten the ratio a little, increase rpm @ speed slightly. Anyway, will have to wait and see.
 

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Really advising new riders to change their sprockets? They need to log a lot of miles stock before deciding on this

I don't think a -/+ change is a good idea on small street bikes because they already hit high rpms at freeway speeds...

I am obviously in the minority because so many people change them...but everyone needs to be aware they make your speedometer terribly inaccurate (without investing another couple hundred on a speedo healer) AND wreck your highway gas mileage.

You can be like my stupid friend on his R6 with +3 in the rear and -1 up front and think you're going 70 when you're actually going 56
 

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I am considering dropping one or two teeth in the rear (-2) when the sprockets come out.

The bike will then hit 60mph in 2nd gear, the speedo will be dead accurate, and my highway RPMs will be lower so gas mileage will be higher :)

Who cares about the little bit of acceleration loss? It's already slow compared to other bikes and I don't care ;) I love it!
 

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You can be like my stupid friend on his R6 with +3 in the rear and -1 up front and think you're going 70 when you're actually going 56
On my 250 the speedo is attached to the front wheel so the only thing that affects it is changing front tire size. Not sure how the speedo on the 300 works, is it based on engine speed and not front wheel speed?
 

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On my 250 the speedo is attached to the front wheel so the only thing that affects it is changing front tire size. Not sure how the speedo on the 300 works, is it based on engine speed and not front wheel speed?
Since its digital I assumed it was...like my CBR

Anyone know for sure?
 

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I did +1 front and I forget what on the rear of my 250 and it reduced engine speed by 1k rpm @ highway speeds. It made 1st gear more useable. It only reduced acceleration a little because lets face it, with the 250 you have to rev really high to accelerate fast anyway. Basically I just have to rev higher before upshifting and it works just as well as stock. I am happy I made the switch as I could not stand constantly doing 10k rpm @ 80mph, whereas I am OK with 9k rpm.
Sorry for the semi-necro thread, but I just had to ask. I'm strapped for cash and can't really afford anything bigger than a ninja 300. I'm willing to go to (somewhat) extreme measures to do this, but my goal is to make a trip from utah to florida with it. I know it's gonna hurt like ****, and I know the stock bike is likely to die before I make it, so I present the following questions:

1. How much RPM is too much RPM to sustain on this bike? I know it red-lines at around 13k and max hp is at 11k, so would 7k or 8k be okay on the bike for hours and hours at a time, or should I be trying to keep it under 7k?

2. If I go with an extreme +2/-4 (only for the week of the road trip), am I going to be unable to get the bike out of my driveway and onto the freeway? I've been doing some calculations, and to hit 80mph without passing 7k rpms, I'd need this ridiculous setup.

Am I making any fundamental mistakes or misunderstandings here? I know the best option for this trip would be to use a much bigger bike, but since I'm already breaking the bank with the Ninja 300, do you think I could find a way to make this work?
 

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I have already upgraded to a 15 tooth front spricket
highly recommended and makes speedo accuratecas well
 

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Sorry for the semi-necro thread, but I just had to ask. I'm strapped for cash and can't really afford anything bigger than a ninja 300. I'm willing to go to (somewhat) extreme measures to do this, but my goal is to make a trip from utah to florida with it. I know it's gonna hurt like ****, and I know the stock bike is likely to die before I make it, so I present the following questions:

1. How much RPM is too much RPM to sustain on this bike? I know it red-lines at around 13k and max hp is at 11k, so would 7k or 8k be okay on the bike for hours and hours at a time, or should I be trying to keep it under 7k?

2. If I go with an extreme +2/-4 (only for the week of the road trip), am I going to be unable to get the bike out of my driveway and onto the freeway? I've been doing some calculations, and to hit 80mph without passing 7k rpms, I'd need this ridiculous setup.

Am I making any fundamental mistakes or misunderstandings here? I know the best option for this trip would be to use a much bigger bike, but since I'm already breaking the bank with the Ninja 300, do you think I could find a way to make this work?
The stock form of the Ninja 300 will have no problem with such a trip. I took my stock 2011 Ninja 250 on a 1300 mile roundtrip to Florida the past summer. There are typical maintenance issues that may arise and you should definitely check everything before rolling out. Be certain all fasteners are torqued properly and thread lock is used where applicable. Start a trip like that on fresh oil and change it upon arrival. Your engine will be spinning 1500 - 10000 RPM depending on what you are doing, but mainly at 6000 RPM (55 MPH) - 8000 RPM (70 MPH). Do not forget chain lube; you will have to lube it multiple times on a trip of that distance. Your trip one-way will be more than double that of my own roundtrip. I did not have any adjustments to make during mine, however, with at least four times the mileage involved, you likely will have some adjustments required at some point. At the very least, oil change, clutch, and chain slack adjustments.

What kind of trip is this? Will you be camping along the way or rooming with friends or motels? Make sure you have the luggage to carry what you need for such a trip.

Most importantly, be safe and have fun! Second, report back and tell us how it was. :D
 

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By the way, I spent less than $75 roundtrip going to Pensacola, FL from Little Rock, Arkansas. My Ninja 250 averaged 40-48 MPG on the trip. By comparison, I get 51-57 MPG on my 300. My car gets 28-30 MPG and this trip would've cost me around $200 instead.
 

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By the way, I spent less than $75 roundtrip going to Pensacola, FL from Little Rock, Arkansas. My Ninja 250 averaged 40-48 MPG on the trip. By comparison, I get 51-57 MPG on my 300. My car gets 28-30 MPG and this trip would've cost me around $200 instead.
Do you live in Pensacola? That's where I live.

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Am I making any fundamental mistakes or misunderstandings here? I know the best option for this trip would be to use a much bigger bike, but since I'm already breaking the bank with the Ninja 300, do you think I could find a way to make this work?
I don't think you need to go to an extreme with the gearing. Just do a +1 front and call it good. I rode my 2004 ninja 250 from Michigan to Florida when I moved and that was 1430 miles one way. My girlfriend convinced me to split it into 3 days instead of 2 so I did 400mi, 600mi, 400mi three days in a row all on I-75. I maintained about 8-10k rpm for literally hours at a time only stopping to refill the tank and had no issues. That is with a well maintained, well broken in engine of course (12,000 miles when I began that trip.) I actually did no maintenance, lubing or adjustments at all during those three days, bike was in prime shape.

I would suggest you worry less about gearing and instead do a +1 front and then a hard break in to prepare for trip. If the engine was broken in then maintaining a constant high RPM is no big deal, even at 10k rpm. If you are buying the bike then going on a trip right away you may be forced to vary your speed quite a bit if you are not broken in past 1k miles. I'm doing a hard break in on my 300 right now and started commuting on the highway @ 100 miles. But I am varying my speed almost constantly.

As for your comment about how sore you will be, well I can only say that on my first day of 400 miles I felt great. By the end of the second day of 600 miles I was ready to crawl into bed and die lol. End of the third day of 400 miles I was sore but not so bad. It helped that I had good upgraded suspension and a corbin seat on that bike. I don't know what it would be like to ride that long on a stock 300. Longest I have ridden my 300 so far is the 19 mile trip one way to work.
 
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