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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All,

I've been panicking trying to fix my shift lever after a lowside. Some of you may know that the 300 shift levers seem to be sparse right now. At the advice of some other forum members and being willing to roll the dice to get back on the road sooner, I bought a 250 shift lever, and long story short, yes. It's absolutely compatible with the 300.

I don't have pictures right now, although I could probably recreate what I did if need be, but here's how I made the replacement.

1) Gather your tools! You will need
  • Breaker bar with 6mm Allen Wrench adapter
  • Adjustable wrench for undoing nuts (I didn't have multiple sizes so I just use an adjustable one. If you have a set of precise wrenches, that will work too)
  • Loctite (I used thread locker blue 242, which I'm pretty sure was on the bolt to begin with
  • Shift lever itself. The 250 lever i got was part 13242-0065. This is the one I can guarantee fits the 300. Of course the one officially for the 300 works too. I got mine from partzilla.com. I can't say their customer service was outstanding (I emailed them a few questions and by the time they got back to me, the part was already here), but nothing to condemn them over.
2) Where the shift lever pivots, there's a hefty bolt going through the lever which takes a 6mm Allen Wrench. I tried using a hand held Allen wrench but couldn't get enough torque on it to break the loctite open and remove the bolt. That's where the breaker bar comes in. Give it some oomph and unscrew the bolt. There is a washer on both the inside and the outside of the bolt, so don't lose them.

3) The shift lever is now pretty much dangling by the tie bar. On the tie bar, there are two small nuts on each end. Use your wrench to loosen the one on the side closest to the lever pivot point, and you should be able to just remove the shift lever assembly right off. Note the orientation of the shift lever in relationship to the bike, the elbow sockets on the lever, and to the tie bar because in the next step, you'll have to recreate this relationship with the new lever.

3a) it's worth noting that when I first looked at all this, i took the entire assembly off, down to the BOTTOM of the tie bar by undoing the bolt holding the base of the tie bar onto the bike. Given what I know now, that probably wasn't necessary, but if you are having trouble getting the hex washer off with it attached to the bike, you have the option of taking it all off this way. I'd try the first way first though.

4) With your new shift lever, screw the now exposed end of the tie bar into the elbow join of your new shift lever, and make it tight. MAKE SURE YOU'RE NOT PUTTING TOO MUCH TORSIONAL STRESS ON THE BAR! the tie bar and sockets seem like they could get bent out of shape pretty easily. If you feel like this is happening, consider taking the assembly off the bike like in 3a, and then putting it back on.

5) Now that the elbow joint is reattached to the tie bar, thread the bolt which takes the Allen Wrench, along with the washers through the eye of the shift lever. For my own peace of mind, I tightened the bolt all the way in one time and then out before putting any loctite on it. Just for practice.

6) Put some loctite on the threads of the bolt. NOTE: THIS STUFF COMES OUT QUICKLY. I ended up using my pants as a rag since I didn't have anything else with me, but having a few paper towels around to clean up any drips might not be a bad idea. With the loctite on the bolt, tighten the bolt back into the bike with your breaker bar.

Please note, that I didn't have a torque wrench to tell me exactly how much torque i was putting on it, or even if I did, would I know what the specs are for this bolt. I kind of just felt it out as I went and compared it to when I took it off the bike. I'm not a mechanic or anything, so if you don't feel comfortable making this change to your bike, please, don't do so. Take the part to a shop and have them do it. This is just meant as a guide for how I did it.

So in summation, if you can't find a 300 shift lever, get a 250 lever, which is pat 13242-0065. If you don't feel comfortable swapping out the part on your own, take it to a shop and have them put it on.
 

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Nice write! No pictures?

I'll add it to the DIY sticky thread :)
 

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Good to know the 250 lever fits!

A torque wrench is for precisely tightening to a specific weight, it should never be used for undoing anything.

The "hex washers" are just nuts.
I loosen the nuts before taking the shift lever off, easier for me that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A torque wrench is for precisely tightening to a specific weight, it should never be used for undoing anything.

The "hex washers" are just nuts.
I loosen the nuts before taking the shift lever off, easier for me that way.
Updated my original post based on your comments. Thanks.
 

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