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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've just had to remove my gas tank and drain the fuel due to water ingress, it looks like the seal on the cap is toasted.

I'm wishing to buy a new gas cap but I'm first investigating how to remove the locking barrel from the cap so I can figure out my options either to buy a used cap without a key, new or buy Chinese replicas. I've stripped it as much as I can as per this photo, I've got the key which means I can unlock it just fine.

I'm just not sure what the final step is to remove this plate from the cap to access the barrel.

With thanks

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I'm starting to believe that the top of the key hole is pressed into the barrel from the manufacturer, I don't think I can dissemble it any further than were I am without damaging the lock.
 

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84' Goldwing Aspencade, 91' EX500, 98' Ninja 250 w/ 17' 300 engine, 07 EX500
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Looks like it, if replacement is needed, STAY AWAY FROM THE CHEAP CHINESE REPLACEMENT!!!!

Unless your looking at the keyless ones, there okay, I have two of them on my bikes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
STAY AWAY FROM THE CHEAP CHINESE REPLACEMENT!!!!
Oops, I placed an order online a few hours before your message but I will see about getting a genuine one once I can figure out what to do about the key situation. I'll use the cheap one as a interim solution as I need to get my bike fixed. Knowing my luck it won't be actual local stock anyway...

I saw the keyless ones but I also park in my city so I'd like to avoid the chance of tampering.
 

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84' Goldwing Aspencade, 91' EX500, 98' Ninja 250 w/ 17' 300 engine, 07 EX500
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Oops, I placed an order online a few hours before your message but I will see about getting a genuine one once I can figure out what to do about the key situation. I'll use the cheap one as a interim solution as I need to get my bike fixed. Knowing my luck it won't be actual local stock anyway...

I saw the keyless ones but I also park in my city so I'd like to avoid the chance of tampering.
It's been awhile since I had to swap my key on one of my bikes, I'll have to look at it again, and I'll let you know. Keep in mind it was a 98 Ninja 250, but knowing Kawasaki, I'm sure they did change much.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Keep in mind it was a 98 Ninja 250, but knowing Kawasaki, I'm sure they did change much.
The 250 cap looks pretty much the same, so I doubt they changed anything there in three decades of bike model :D

right now everything needs to come from overseas is taking months, guessing the Chinese one's fail eventually or don't seal well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
They had one in stock, neat!

I'm just going to accept having another set of keys... how silly

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They had one in stock, neat!

I'm just going to accept having another set of keys... how silly
Maybe I'm just being silly, but couldn't the dealer re-key the lock for you? (For an unreasonable price, I bet though...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Maybe I'm just being silly, but couldn't the dealer re-key the lock for you? (For an unreasonable price, I bet though...)
No, that's pretty much why I made this thread is how I get the barrel out so I can transpant it into a new cap/lid assembly that doesn't leak water into the tank.

The dealer said I'd have to buy a whole set of Ingition/Tank/Seat locks for what would probably be a totally balls stupid amount of cash.

I can get a key re-cut as I know the original code (I still have both original keys), but that doesn't help me here if there's no way to get the barrel removed in an obvious non destructive means to have it re-keyed.
 

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The dealer said I'd have to buy a whole set of Ingition/Tank/Seat locks for what would probably be a totally balls stupid amount of cash.
Well that's annoying.

Can you take a picture straight-on to the underside of the old cap? Trying to see if there's any kind of lock ring or snap ring holding the lock barrel in place. There is usually either a locking ring or an "extra" pin on the barrel that serves to lock the barrel in place.
Also, I think in order to slide a lock barrel out, you need to have the key in and turned. With the lock in a "locked" position, the pins (or wafers or whatever, I'm going to call them pins) are holding it inside the case. IF YOU LOSE THE ORDER THE PINS ARE IN, YOU WILL HAVE A VERY HARD TIME PUTTING THEM BACK IN RIGHT!!!!!

To better understand what I mean, I recommend looking at some YouTube videos from a guy that goes by "Lockpicking Lawyer". He seems to be able to beat just about any lock, and frequently disassembles locks to show the "security features". This one may help, it's for a VW, but I expect it may be similar.

Also found this one for the Kawasaki One Key System to key luggage to your bike ignition, this may help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Can you take a picture straight-on to the underside of the old cap?
Looking under the cap there's a cam that limits rotation of the lock in the first photo its angled straight up and rotates counter clockwise, there's no circlips, since I got the new cap I tried prying the lock from the front as well which is why the edge is chewed up now, there were two rubber covers either side of the lock. I popped the slide cover off the front, what you see is under the silver cap with the plastic shutter (my god... tiny springs go sproing!). The diameter on the rear part of the cylinder is smaller than the front, which makes me think the key hole is pressed into the cylinder or something :(
Lockpicking Lawyer
I too fell down that rabbit hole many years ago 🤣 His April 1st video's are great
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If you got a pick or thin screwdriver or something on that cam thing, can it be depressed? I think if you can get that pushed into the lock barrel the whole thing should slide out the other side. Make sure the key is in so the other slides are all aligned, too, if the barrel can't turn, it also can't slide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
If you got a pick or thin screwdriver or something on that cam thing, can it be depressed? I think if you can get that pushed into the lock barrel the whole thing should slide out the other side. Make sure the key is in so the other slides are all aligned, too, if the barrel can't turn, it also can't slide.
my god... magic! The wafers just fall out and I can see the tiny spring behind them too.

keeping them in order I see I can transplant them between the cores if I wanted to now, if I hadn't of damaged the little shutter I could have just done the whole core :)
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Super happy that worked out for you! Much better than replacing the whole set or carrying around multiple keys.
Full disclosure, I was half guessing based on some YouTube videos I've seen. Not sure if I'm just that good, or just lucky. 😆
 
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