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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey fellow riders!

Wrapping up a great summer track season here in Seattle. Although I am looking to take my 300 to the next level on the track, and I think the foot controls are limiting me. And also not spend a fortune, lol.

I've got the Woodcraft rearsets with GP shift, with the folding pedals. My foot pegs are set to the lowest/most friendly position. That foot peg position is still dramatically higher and more rearward than stock, but I'm thinking about changing it up. Stock suspension with maxed out preload, 15wt fork fluid, and I'm 150lbs.

Both ways when I lean all the way, the pedals (shifter and brake lever) scrape first, unless my boot toe scraper hits first. I'm not grinding down my pedal controls, but they have a tiny bit of scrapes, so I know they are touching first. My pegs have no scrape. I could have more refined foot position when cornering as well, so I will work on that too.

Now I actually had to lower my rear brake pedal from the typical position, because in my last wreck I lost a bunch of mobility in my right ankle, so I had to lower the pedal to make rear brakes controllable and comfortable. It's not crazy low, but lower than a typical setup by maybe an inch or so.

So I am considering raising the pegs and controls to within the limits of the rearsets. Although, my knees are already bent quite a bit as is when riding, and I still ride the hell out of this bike on a daily basis. But I thought a good change along with raising the foot interface would be to install a seat pad or something to raise my seat height. Does me sitting higher on the bike with a higher CG make the bike more maneuverable? Will it change turn-in or other things? I am thinking a pretty substantial seat height increase, since I am tall, and I want more supersport ergos. Thoughts?

I'm 6', and pretty lanky and skinny. So I figured the higher seat height would pair well with the foot controls. Will I actually gain a substantial amount of extra lean angle if I raise the pegs and pedals though? It's not worth doing if I won't. I cannot use the whole tire as is, and I would definitely be comfortable leaning the bike more if it could do it. I have the throttle control and body positioning to make it happen, I just feel limited by scraping parts. Even like 5 degrees more lean angle per side would be night and day, and get me the last few mph per corner I am looking for.

Thoughts fellow track junkies? Thanks fellas.
-Mike
 

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I think your stock suspension may not be up to the task, and is sagging and allowing the cycle to ride too low while cornering.

Proper-rate fork springs and oil (maybe 20wt), and a new high-quality rear shock with a matching spring rate may cure the problem - and drop your lap times.

If it's still a problem when the suspension is upgraded and properly adjusted, you may need to hang-off more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good to know. Not opposed to the rear shock mod, I may do that with the gixxer 600 shock or similar. I could definitely stand to get more out of my suspension.

I figured at my weight the stock suspension with max preload isn't actually too bad, I don't feel like the bike dives or squats as bad as most peoples' do, but yeah if I am cornering hard enough it's probably sagging a good amount.

I don't wanna spend the cash on the front cartridges or inverted forks or anything like that, but the rear might be a cheap way to get more out of the bike. Front springs might be a good call too, know any good shops or brands that have a small variety in springs for the N300? That could be a cheap way to improve the bike as well.

Thanks for the advice, I may dig into my suspension as the next step to remedy this, I hadn't considered that.
More advice appreciated!

-Mike
 

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I don't think you need to go all the way with cartridges or emulators.

Check Sonic Spring. They have a calculator on the site to help you figure out the correct fork spring rate. The stock springs were too light for most people of normal size and weight, so I'm pretty sure they are too light for you - especially at the track.

The rear shock is trickier. Be careful adapting a shock from another cycle. Some use linkages, some don't, and the overall length is critical for proper ride height. There may be decent replacement options available. I would spend the money required to get the right one. You don't want odd handling characteristics out on the track at full speed.

I really think properly set-up suspension will cure the issue, make it easier to ride, and drop your lap times. Stock suspension just isn't up to track duty.
 
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