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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
was looking for some help not sure if this was correct area (new member). I am trying to install a R-GAZA crash cage on my 16' ex300 ninja and not sure on which bolt to remove to install the small frame extender (will take picture) where the crash cage would connect to. I am assuming the lower one I circled in the picture attached. Will take more pictures just wanted to start the conversation.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So I ended up using bolt #1 labeled below (right side), (upper engine mounting bolt/nut). I torqued to 32ft lb, I saw in manual 51 ft lbs and on an installation for another frame slider 51 ft lbs, would that be correct seems very high was scared to brake the bolt would 32 not be enough!?
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below lets call this (inner mounting bracket) they did label R, Right so I figured since the original mounting was a bolt and a nut this had to make sense and the side with the welded flange/nut would be to mount / screw in the cage.
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below is the rear engine mounting. I but the long bolt or sleeve through the right side in first. So this sleeve has a longer thread on one end than the other, the smaller thread side I left on the right as this was same size as original and the fitting with the spacers seemed to work better this way. Also the smaller spacer on the right side.
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overall this seems complicated easy in theory but hard to install 7/10. I took my time 3 days 8hrs mostly because trial and error (taking my sweet time, patience) and I'm only half way there. Also I did put two drops of Loctite (blue) on these upper right bolts.

questions:
1) upper engine mounting bolts torque ft lbs?
2) inner mounting bracket to cage with welded flange/nut bolts torque ft lbs?
3) rear engine mounting nuts torque ft lbs?
4) front bar not shown in post that connects the front of the crash cages together goes in front of exhaust torque ft lbs?


I don't think I needed this jack underneath the engine did not move for me. One thing i noticed not sure if it was me or design but the lower side of the cage mounting to the inner bracket touches the fairing a little i wonder if this will cause any damage riding around later on it. Also this is not a true non cut because you will have to cut a small piece top of the front sprocket cover which they say isn't significant.
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The installation instructions below, only mentions M10 48 ft lbs max?
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
So I ended up using bolt #1 labeled below (right side), (upper engine mounting bolt/nut). I torqued to 32ft lb, I saw in manual 51 ft lbs and on an installation for another frame slider 51 ft lbs, would that be correct seems very high was scared to brake the bolt would 32 not be enough!?
View attachment 115705

below lets call this (inner mounting bracket) they did label R, Right so I figured since the original mounting was a bolt and a nut this had to make sense and the side with the welded flange/nut would be to mount / screw in the cage.
View attachment 115706

below is the rear engine mounting. I but the long bolt or sleeve through the right side in first. So this sleeve has a longer thread on one end than the other, the smaller thread side I left on the right as this was same size as original and the fitting with the spacers seemed to work better this way. Also the smaller spacer on the right side.
View attachment 115707

overall this seems complicated easy in theory but hard to install 7/10. I took my time 3 days 8hrs mostly because trial and error (taking my sweet time, patience) and I'm only half way there. Also I did put two drops of Loctite (blue) on these upper right bolts.

questions:
1) upper engine mounting bolts torque ft lbs?
2) inner mounting bracket to cage with welded flange/nut bolts torque ft lbs?
3) rear engine mounting nuts torque ft lbs?
4) front bar not shown in post that connects the front of the crash cages together goes in front of exhaust torque ft lbs?


I don't think I needed this jack underneath the engine did not move for me. One thing i noticed not sure if it was me or design but the lower side of the cage mounting to the inner bracket touches the fairing a little i wonder if this will cause any damage riding around later on it. Also this is not a true non cut because you will have to cut a small piece top of the front sprocket cover which they say isn't significant.
View attachment 115713

The installation instructions below, only mentions M10 48 ft lbs max?
View attachment 115711
View attachment 115712
 

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These are the torque values from the service manual:
Front Upper Engine Mounting Bolts 51 ft/lb
Front Lower Engine Mounting Nut 51 ft/lb
Front Middle Engine Mounting Nut 32 ft/lb
Rear Engine Mounting Nuts 51 ft/lb

For the other bolts, do what the instructions say.

Why the cage? Will you be stunting? Or just protection for an eventual fall.

You can ride without the sprocket cover. You may have a little bit of grease and oil flying off right after greasing the chain. Mine doesn't have it since I ride GP pattern gear shifting.

If the cage is touching the fairing when still, it'll most likely leave a mark on the fairings. Can you put some spacers in the cage mounts so it goes a bit wider?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
These are the torque values from the service manual:
Front Upper Engine Mounting Bolts 51 ft/lb
Front Lower Engine Mounting Nut 51 ft/lb
Front Middle Engine Mounting Nut 32 ft/lb
Rear Engine Mounting Nuts 51 ft/lb

For the other bolts, do what the instructions say.

Why the cage? Will you be stunting? Or just protection for an eventual fall.

You can ride without the sprocket cover. You may have a little bit of grease and oil flying off right after greasing the chain. Mine doesn't have it since I ride GP pattern gear shifting.

If the cage is touching the fairing when still, it'll most likely leave a mark on the fairings. Can you put some spacers in the cage mounts so it goes a bit wider?
Yes I saw those torque specs as well but was wondering if I could get away with 32ft lbs or 48 ft lbs according to their instructions or just torque to 51 ft lbs regardless.
its for both protection and a little stunting, would like to track in the future. I will end up cutting a small piece on the front sprocket cover should be no big deal I guess. I could probably try what you mentioned adding spacers or washers ill take another look.
 

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Don't be afraid of putting 50 ft/lb on that bolt. It holds the engine. I've loosened those a couple of times and torqued back to specs with no problem.
 

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I would trust the SM (service manual) with values for specific bolt locations before I trusted an AM (aftermarket) manual referencing "general" values for bolt sizes.
Torquing a bolt higher than "specified" should only damage threads. Since the threads are OE (original equipment) specs (both the bolt* and the tapped hole in the bike), torquing to OE spec that is above the AM spec should not cause any damage unless the AM part is made of a much weaker material, where I would then question the utility of the AM product.

*Unless the AM kit came with weaker bolts, where I'd again question the utility of the AM product.

Generally, overtorqued bolts will either pop the head or strip the thread. If Papa-Kawi says these bolts go to 51, I would go to 51.
 
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