Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forums banner

41 - 60 of 96 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,371 Posts
This was not an oil issue. The nut holding the rod together came off and thats what caused it to let go.

Ive only ever used KN filters on the bike and on my turbo'd rsx for years.
awesome, thanks for that, i had my doubts the oil filter was the cause:biggrin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
awesome, thanks for that, i had my doubts the oil filter was the cause:biggrin:
Even if the oil filter was the cause, k&n says they will repair the motor. In koreo's case Kawasaki stepped in and replaced the motor putting an end to the matter. Fortunately for koreo it was still under Kawasaki warranty. Warranty is kind of like insurance.

Some oils and filters offer warranties which could come in handy. k and n offers such warranties and has a high user feedback which is encouraging to buy.

As this is an oil filter question and this forum is not getting advertising revenue from k & N there appears to be other oil filters out there.

How about this filter?

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/174/735/-/15040/Tusk-First-Line-Oil-Filter?term=ninja 300 oil filter

$5.99
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,371 Posts
As this is an oil filter question and this forum is not getting advertising revenue from k & N there appears to be other oil filters out there.

How about this filter?

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/174/735/-/15040/Tusk-First-Line-Oil-Filter?term=ninja 300 oil filter

$5.99
well if this doesn’t open a :emot-can: then nothing will.

there is plenty of options around for oil filters, as i said previously, have a look thru my quick & dirty links there must be at least 6 to choose from
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Priming the oil filter is just like putting cooking spray or butter in a frying pan before cooking. Its really not nessary but it keep things moving freely.
The only filters that must be primed are engines with an oil cooled trubo. These filters must be primed to ensure the turbo is lubed at first start up.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,371 Posts
Priming the oil filter is just like putting cooking spray or butter in a frying pan before cooking. Its really not nessary but it keep things moving freely.
The only filters that must be primed are engines with an oil cooled trubo. These filters must be primed to ensure the turbo is lubed at first start up.
http://www.motorcycle.com/mobile
its a wise idea to prime the filter regardless if it has a turbo or not
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts
Of every internal combustion engine I have come across it is not necessary to prime the filter. It is a practice for those who want to ensure that their baby is at tip top and want the prestige of saying that they take care of it to a level of 110%. Weather you do it or not will not fail your motor... But doing it, in theory, can increase the life of your motor. So tickle your fancy and take the extra three seconds to do it, or just don't freak about it if you forget to do so. :D

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,516 Posts
Of every internal combustion engine I have come across it is not necessary to prime the filter. It is a practice for those who want to ensure that their baby is at tip top and want the prestige of saying that they take care of it to a level of 110%. Weather you do it or not will not fail your motor... But doing it, in theory, can increase the life of your motor. So tickle your fancy and take the extra three seconds to do it, or just don't freak about it if you forget to do so. :D

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
It's purely a step to help prevent you from not putting enough oil in the first place as you'll read a bit high until you crank the engine and push the new oil through the system and then find yourself reading low all of a sudden. That extra oil you see in the oil quantity required step when doing an oil change for doing one WITH a filter change is because that's about how much oil gets trapped within the filter assembly. Also, the oil sight glass doesn't measure TOTAL oil in the sump, it only measures the minimum and maximum required amount for proper, worry free operation. The quantity that can get trapped within the filter is more than enough to take the sight glass level down from from two thirds to below the low line. It's the reason why I was always taught to prime the oil filter on installation to prevent the chance that your first crank will drop your oil pressure below dangerous levels and pressures. The thin film on the bearings and journals only lasts for half a minute or less before it gets pressed out and getting low oil pressure may not get enough oil back through the system. Even priming the oil filter a bit, you still can't fill up the whole oil filter cavity and your oil level will drop a little after the first crank. On my cruiser, It has a large filter element as well as a long line system since the oil filter has been relocated to where it's much more easily accessed. Because of this, if I didn't prime the filter, I'd be well into the dangerous level on the first crank and probably damage the engine if I tried to go more than a a few seconds. It doesn't hurt anything to do it and it will only potentially save you more time and hassle down the road later. When I have primed the oil filter prior to installation and filling up the oil again, I've never had to top the oil back up after cranking the engine. Priming the filter and filling it up 2/3 the way to the max line always has left me with a little over half way on the oil sight gauge after running the engine for a bit and waiting for the oil to flow back down to the sump again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,371 Posts
^^^^ This


I did an oil change/filter change on my N-3 not long ago. Took damn near 4 litres of oil to fill the bike up. Manual reckons it was 2.7 litres, and when i dropped the sump plug it was just over 3 litres. i primed the filter 1/4 full and sat and watched and the oil quite literally vanished before my eyes as the fibre in the oil filter soaked it back up so i filled it again, lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts
Which oil filter were you using, just a standard filter type or something like a k&n. I haven't yet primed my n3 during an oil change, I've always put a little extra in the know the filters have tendency to be a bit..... "greedy" sometimes.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
well if this doesn’t open a :emot-can: then nothing will.

there is plenty of options around for oil filters, as i said previously, have a look thru my quick & dirty links there must be at least 6 to choose from

That's quite the list of oil filters. I have to wonder if there is an accreditation of some sort an oil filter has to go through before being able to market itself to a model of bike, ie our n300?

Dimensionally an oil filter may work but does using that filter meet oem requirements? Oil has to be jaso ma certified for use with the wet clutch. I wouldn't be surprised if an oil filter has to meet oem requirements for a particular application, ie our n300 before being able to claim use for a particular model.

The k&n 303 is marketed for use in the n300
The op's filter choice I see is listed for automotive use and that filter is also in your list. However, is it really fit for the n300? Dimensionally it may fit, :question:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
If you have a hard time not putting enough oil in initially prior to warm up and distribution through the block then you probably shouldn't be changing oil in the first place.

It really isn't rocket science, stand a bike up, fill up the sump to just above line, start the bike for a couple minutes, turn off, top it up. It is quite that easy.

For the record I don't pre-oil my filters either, never had any problems, ever, on any of my vehicles. The KN-303 comes with a pre-lubed o-ring already on it you don't even need to lube the ring.

What I have seen from very much amateurs is they overtighten their oil filters. In the case of an oil filter, tighter =/= better, you want it hand tightened and to check it after a few miles of riding for tightness.

I've had to physically beat on blocks trying to get filters off that the previous changer torqued on. Not fun, or good for the threads.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alkeplar

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
That's quite the list of oil filters. I have to wonder if there is an accreditation of some sort an oil filter has to go through before being able to market itself to a model of bike, ie our n300?

Dimensionally an oil filter may work but does using that filter meet oem requirements? Oil has to be jaso ma certified for use with the wet clutch. I wouldn't be surprised if an oil filter has to meet oem requirements for a particular application, ie our n300 before being able to claim use for a particular model.

The k&n 303 is marketed for use in the n300
The op's filter choice I see is listed for automotive use and that filter is also in your list. However, is it really fit for the n300? Dimensionally it may fit, :question:
The only thing I can think of would be the pressure drop needed to open the bypass valve and allow unfiltered oil to go to the engine.
The filter bypass is a safety thing that in the event that the oil filtration media becomes so clogged that it no longer passes enough oil, the pressure differential opens a bypass valve that allows unfiltered oil to go to the engine. If that issue comes into play, you aren't changing filters often enough.

The filter bypass is built into the oil filter and is not to be confused with the oil pump bypass valve. The oil pump bypass is a spring loaded valve designed to shunt excess oil flow back to the sump so that the oil pressure does not go to the moon at high engine rpms causing bulged oil filters and sheared oil pump drive gears in extreme cases.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/kawasaki/ninja_300/13/picture/oil_filter_hiflo/

Here's a place I bought parts for my cbr125 from. They have a brand of filter called:

http://www.hiflofiltro.com/contact

According to them this filter is TUV certified, what is that?

Tested and certified

HiFlo are the first aftermarket air filter to be audited by European certification authority TUV - and they meet and exceed all OEM specification. HiFlo are now manufacturers of oil filters for a number of motorcycle manufacturers.
If I use an alternate filter I want to know it exceeds the requirements of the n300 and has a price incentive over the oem filter.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,371 Posts
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/kawasaki/ninja_300/13/picture/oil_filter_hiflo/

Here's a place I bought parts for my cbr125 from. They have a brand of filter called:

http://www.hiflofiltro.com/contact

According to them this filter is TUV certified, what is that?



If I use an alternate filter I want to know it exceeds the requirements of the n300 and has a price incentive over the oem filter.
Hf303 is the Hiflow part number you want, ebay from UK delivered to my door is $10 with free delivery, standard kwaka genuine part is twice the price

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HiFlow-Filtro-Motorcycle-Oil-Filter-For-Honda-1995-ST1100-S-Pan-European-HF303-/360643317479?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item53f8044ee7
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,371 Posts
http://www.hiflofiltro.com/contact

According to them this filter is TUV certified, what is that?



If I use an alternate filter I want to know it exceeds the requirements of the n300 and has a price incentive over the oem filter.
funny you should mention this, cos Hiflow make the internals for K&N, lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
Hf303 is the Hiflow part number you want, ebay from UK delivered to my door is $10 with free delivery, standard kwaka genuine part is twice the price

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HiFlow-Filtro-Motorcycle-Oil-Filter-For-Honda-1995-ST1100-S-Pan-European-HF303-/360643317479?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item53f8044ee7

I am not so lucky, 5.99 GBP shipping. It's a flat shipping rate, I can order as many as I want. If I buy 2, which I might It will save me 8$ from buying from my local dealer.

If this company makes the internals for k&n, perhaps they are also the supplier of the oem filters as well :icon_scratch:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,371 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
im not 100% on that, however, there is a oil filter called "silverline" sold in Australia by Repco

http://www.repcotrade.com.au/go/news/repco-introduces-service-interval-guarantee-on-silverline-filters

and it is made by a large OEM company

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0xeZHi0_WU

i would oh so dearly love to know the company that makes it and who they make OEM filters for

This is curious, they state they are manufacturing 100 million oil and air filters.

Dang, why can't I get free shipping for the hiflofiltro - 5.99 gbp is steep. If I order two and for whatever reason I get dinged for sale taxes my cost for these filters are no better than going to the dealer for the oem filter. Where I am at k and n is actually the same price or more than the oem filter.
 
41 - 60 of 96 Posts
Top