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Thanks for the video. I waiting until my rear spools come in to change mine.
 

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Nice video!

Btw, don't forget run the bike for a minute after filling it back up to prime the new filter. This will lower your oil level again and you have to top up a second time.

I filled mine up to the max line, and after priming the filter, the sight glass was almost empty again.
 

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Your brave doing an oil change in your living room, lol. I find it easier removing the right side lower fairing to get to the filter.
 

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Good video. So is the oil level suppose to be all the way up? Also is it how oftend do you change the oil, at 3k miles or the 3 months it mentions? Or does it depend how you drive?
 

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3k for sure if regular oil. Probably could go a bit more on synthetic. Once a year minimum if you drive less than that.
 

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Hero of Time
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
lol wilhelm you are now awesome in my book XD

rear spools and a stand will definitely make it easier, and thanks for the tip about starting it and checking the level.

after looking it up the level is supposed to be in the middle of the sight glass when the bike is standing straight up.

also sorry for being sick. i sound kind of bad but wanted to get the video done lol
 

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I ♥ Borat In A Thong
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I made the mistake of filling up my oil then taking my bike out and riding it and forgot to add more oil after it went into the filter, lol. But it didn't harm anything. Just topped it off later on.
 

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Personal opinion, put in in service and maint section and sticky, anyone else agree?

(FYI I made a Oil Change DIY for my last bike some 5 years or so ago.. It was made a sticky and the thread dominates the entire forum on "Thanks", you become the man for this and end up having more thanks than anyone else)
 

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I'm not sure there's any science behind it. When I was a n00b the crew I rode with all used 20W50 in their R1s and gixxers for years. They claimed that as far and hard as we pushed the engines, a little thicker oil would help protect better than 10W40 since it would resist high temp break-down better.
I'm seldom a follower but in this instance I just followed what my peers did. I know over 25 riders who have used 20W50 for years as well as 3 mechanics and two professional drag racers who all use or recommend 20W50 over 10W40 even when the book calls for 10W40.
Not sure there's any real gains but it obviously doesn't hurt either
 

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Hero of Time
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Discussion Starter #18
lol oh well i thought it was 10w40 too till i looked at the dealer and they didn't have any 10w40 so i just went with the 20w50.

the 20w50 will be fine for now until i switch to synth, a little thicker and maybe a little less horsepower probably not even a single hp though. for you in washington i would stick to 10w40 as the climate is not as hot as down here in texas.
 

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I have though about going to 5w40 or possibly even 0w40 for winter.. I dont notice it on the 300 but on the 250R it just dosnt feel right until the oil them is above 40 or so.. (I have an afteramarket gauge cluster on my 250R so I got oil temp and water temp)

I ride in all weather, unless there is snow on the ground :D
 

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Does any oil hit your pipes or plastic when you pull the filter?
Some oil hits the pipe when you pull the filter, even if you're using a rear stand or center stand.

Trick is to cover your pipe with some aluminium foil. Once you put the new filter on, just pull the foil off. Bam, clean pipes.
 
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