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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have a 2016 Ninja 300. Everything has been working fine . One day I left the key on the on position too long and it wouldn't start . I waited about 5 minutes then it started. fast forward 1000 miles later. After some hard freeway driving 60-90 mph for about 40 min I made stop. When I went to start it, it just made a buzzer sound. I waited 5 minutes tried to start it and it made a buzzer sound. Being in neutral is not the problem. The dash lights up and doesn't really "dim" but rather it flickers and resets , and resets the fuel prime, which i can hear each time it cycles to start ). I decided to push start it and managed to pop the clutch in 1st gear and it started but the dash was going nuts and my aftermarket gear indicator was showing an F or C (normally shows a gear 1,2,3,4,5,6). Odometer wasn't working and the rpms were unstable. eventually the check engine light came on. I towed it home. Lights still come on so it looks like I have a good battery.

Any thoughts on what the problem is? I'm hearing maybe its some sort of electrical short maybe a broken stator.
 

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I'd start with putting a multimeter on your battery to confirm it's good...instead of just relying on dash lights. If battery is original it could be at the end of its life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you. One question about the jump start. If it's the battery then why didn't the bike continue to run?


I did test the battery this morning.

Key off: 12.5v
Key on: 10v

Since the bike won't start I did a static tested the stator with a DMM using ohms. And all the combinations ab ac bc came out around 2 or 3 ohms. Is that ok?

I'm going to buy a new battery and start her up and I'll update. I'm hoping that's all it is.
 

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Thank you. One question about the jump start. If it's the battery then why didn't the bike continue to run?

I did test the battery this morning.
Key off: 12.5v
Key on: 10v

Since the bike won't start I did a static tested the stator with a DMM using ohms. And all the combinations ab ac bc came out around 2 or 3 ohms. Is that ok?

I'm going to buy a new battery and start her up and I'll update. I'm hoping that's all it is.
That's telling you the battery is bad.

With the ignition on you should only lose a few tenths of a volt.

You should get 10V or more as you are cranking.

Be sure to fully charge the new battery before installing it. Most are not when you purchase them.
 

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Be sure to fully charge the new battery before installing it. Most are not when you purchase them.
I mean, that's probably GOOD advice and all, but in my experience (and my laziness) I never charge a car or motorcycle battery first, and never had an issue with it not starting.
What I do do, is make sure I pick a VERY recent one; a lawn mower battery I just bought at Walmart in late March 2021 had a 04/21 sticker on it! 🤔

Lead acid batteries are usually fully charged when they leave the factory, and lose about ~5% to ~8% of charge per month just siting around; it's the reason why I can still start my tractors/lawn mowers/motorbikes in April or May after not having charged them since the previous October or November (I'll charge some with a trickle charger, but sometimes forget the odd battery here and there).

"Modern car batteries are charged prior to being sold. A dated sticker on the top of the battery will indicate the last known verifiable charge. Lead-acid batteries self-discharge at 5% per month while unused, so it is best practice to buy the newest one you can find. "

...from: Do Car Batteries Come Charged? | Home Battery Bank
 

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I would recommend you at least check the voltage then.

Can't tell you how many times I have heard "my cycle won't start" and "it's not the battery - it's new" - only to find out it wasn't adequately charged.
 
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