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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey I have a Kawasaki ninja 300 I changed the oil pan and changed out the old exhaust for a after market exhaust and it started to smoke then when I road it down the road from my house it wasn’t getting enough power and now it won’t move or start it will move only if the clutch is engaged can you please tell me what’s wrong with my bike?
 

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probably need more info to help you. Silly question, but did you refill it with oil after you changed the pan? When you changed the exhaust - did you do a full exhaust or just a slip on?

Were there any other issues before you did this work? why did you need a new oil pan?
 
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it will move only if the clutch is engaged
Can you explain this a little more in detail and clearly?
The clutch is normally engaged, and pulling the lever disengages the clutch. From what I'm reading, the bike will only move if the clutch lever is NOT pulled in.
Or do you mean the starter will only crank if you have the clutch lever pulled in? Or something completely different?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can you explain this a little more in detail and clearly?
The clutch is normally engaged, and pulling the lever disengages the clutch. From what I'm reading, the bike will only move if the clutch lever is NOT pulled in.
Or do you mean the starter will only crank if you have the clutch lever pulled in? Or something completely different?
When I pull in the the clutch to the bike will move but when I let out the clutch it won’t move at all
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
probably need more info to help you. Silly question, but did you refill it with oil after you changed the pan? When you changed the exhaust - did you do a full exhaust or just a slip on?

Were there any other issues before you did this work? why did you need a new oil pan?
I ran over an object that out a hole in my oil pan and in my complete exhaust I replaced the exhaust and the oil pan. Yes I did put oil back in the bike
 

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How much oil did you put in it? What oil did you use?

Is the level correct when the cycle is balanced level - not resting on the side stand?

You may have over-filled the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How much oil did you put in it? What oil did you use?

Is the level correct when the cycle is balanced level - not resting on the side stand?

You may have over-filled the oil.
I used 2.5 quarts of oil yes it’s correct
 

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so you ran over something that put a hole in your oil pan and you replaced your complete exhaust (headers and muffler). Now your bike won't 'move'?

Did the hole in your pan cause you to lose a large amount of oil? All your oil? Did you continue to ride after you had the hole in the pan? how long did you ride with the hole in your pan? (trying to determine if you damaged something from the impact).

when you pull in your clutch you can move your bike by pushing or walking it around...but when you release the clutch, as in a first gear take off, if does not move? Does the engine rev up ? What happens when you let the clutch out to try to move? Have you followed your clutch cable down to your tranny to see it it is moving when you pull and release your clutch lever?

Is your chain on? Sprockets are ok? Gas in the bike?? Hell...I'm out of questions...:cool:
 

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so you ran over something that put a hole in your oil pan and you replaced your complete exhaust (headers and muffler). Now your bike won't 'move'?

Did the hole in your pan cause you to lose a large amount of oil? All your oil? Did you continue to ride after you had the hole in the pan? how long did you ride with the hole in your pan? (trying to determine if you damaged something from the impact).

when you pull in your clutch you can move your bike by pushing or walking it around...but when you release the clutch, as in a first gear take off, if does not move? Does the engine rev up ? What happens when you let the clutch out to try to move? Have you followed your clutch cable down to your tranny to see it it is moving when you pull and release your clutch lever?

Is your chain on? Sprockets are ok? Gas in the bike?? Hell...I'm out of questions...:cool:
I also have many questions, because there is alot I'm still not quite clear on, and I'm thinking there's important information still left to uncover and more questions that will come up.

Does the engine start?
If the engine does not start, does the electric start motor crank the engine, but it doesn't catch?
If the engine does start, does it die when you try and pull away (release the clutch lever), or does it just continue running but no power to the wheels?
What gear are you in, and can you shift up and/or down and into/out of neutral?
When you punched a hole in the oil pan, is it possible some of the moving parts of the engine got banged up? Did the motor stop (or you stop it) immediately, or was it run without oil for a bit before it shut down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The bike won’t start period it will turn on but won’t start meaning the dash will turn on and can hear the fuel pump start but when I push the electric start button it clicks it has oil in it as well I’ve tried starting it with the kick stand up and with the kick stand down I’ve also tried starting it with holding the clutch lever in but still won’t start . I also tried bump starting it as well but still won’t start I’ve undid the clutch cable as well and made sure it’s wasn’t too tight or too loose I’ve checked the clutch plates they are all fine no dings or dents in them or wore out I haven’t tried cranking with the crank shaft yet cause I don’t have a big enough socket to do so. Also the bike will not move in neutral even if the bike is off or on and when the clutch is engaged it won’t move either it will only move if the clutch is disengaged
 

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Sounds like she's fucked.

I'm assuming if the bike is in gear, the bike will still roll with the clutch in.
Have you CHECKED the oil level since you refilled it? Like, I mean go out and check it right now and make sure the oil you put in is still in there.

When the clutch is out (engaged) the engine is connected to the transmission drive shaft. If the transmission is in N, the transmission output shaft is not driven by the transmission drive shaft.
When the clutch is in (disengaged) the engine is not connected to the transmission drive shaft.
Where the bike rolls with the clutch in, we can conclude that both the transmission drive and output shafts can still turn and are not seized. Since the bike will not roll in N and the clutch out, either the bike is not properly shifting into N, or the engine is seized. We can also conclude the lever is activating the clutch as desired.
If it was as simple as the bike not properly shifting into N, pulling in the clutch should let it start. Where there is a no-start-no-crank with kickstand up and clutch in, I'd say the engine is seized up.

What I think is most likely is that when you got the hole in the pan and lost oil, the damage was already done. Things kept on turning for long enough without oil to kill it.
The other likely option is there is a leak somewhere and all that new oil is gone, either leaked out or leaked into the cylinder and got burned up. Result is the same, no oil + moving engine = expensive paperweight.

In either case, it's generally both easier and cheaper to replace the entire engine with a used unit than it is to try and repair if it's seized.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sounds like she's fucked.

I'm assuming if the bike is in gear, the bike will still roll with the clutch in.
Have you CHECKED the oil level since you refilled it? Like, I mean go out and check it right now and make sure the oil you put in is still in there.

When the clutch is out (engaged) the engine is connected to the transmission drive shaft. If the transmission is in N, the transmission output shaft is not driven by the transmission drive shaft.
When the clutch is in (disengaged) the engine is not connected to the transmission drive shaft.
Where the bike rolls with the clutch in, we can conclude that both the transmission drive and output shafts can still turn and are not seized. Since the bike will not roll in N and the clutch out, either the bike is not properly shifting into N, or the engine is seized. We can also conclude the lever is activating the clutch as desired.
If it was as simple as the bike not properly shifting into N, pulling in the clutch should let it start. Where there is a no-start-no-crank with kickstand up and clutch in, I'd say the engine is seized up.

What I think is most likely is that when you got the hole in the pan and lost oil, the damage was already done. Things kept on turning for long enough without oil to kill it.
The other likely option is there is a leak somewhere and all that new oil is gone, either leaked out or leaked into the cylinder and got burned up. Result is the same, no oil + moving engine = expensive paperweight.

In either case, it's generally both easier and cheaper to replace the entire engine with a used unit than it is to try and repair if it's seized.
Has oil same as I put in won’t start I hear clicking coming from underneath my seat so could possibly be the starter relay
 

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The bike won’t start period it will turn on but won’t start meaning the dash will turn on and can hear the fuel pump start but when I push the electric start button it clicks it has oil in it as well I’ve tried starting it with the kick stand up and with the kick stand down I’ve also tried starting it with holding the clutch lever in but still won’t start . I also tried bump starting it as well but still won’t start I’ve undid the clutch cable as well and made sure it’s wasn’t too tight or too loose I’ve checked the clutch plates they are all fine no dings or dents in them or wore out I haven’t tried cranking with the crank shaft yet cause I don’t have a big enough socket to do so. Also the bike will not move in neutral even if the bike is off or on and when the clutch is engaged it won’t move either it will only move if the clutch is disengaged
First things first - that sounds like a battery issue to me.

Check the battery voltage. It should be over 12.7V before hitting the button. Read it again when you hit the button. You should still see over 10V with the button pushed.

The other possibility (as IronWarrior suggested) is the engine is locked-up. You can check by removing the large round plug on the left engine case and spinning the engine over with a socket/ratchet. I believe you want to spin it counterclockwise - but confirm. If you are not able to spin it over with a reasonable amount of force with a 3/8 dr ratchet, it would suggest there is major engine damage.
 

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First things first - that sounds like a battery issue to me.

Check the battery voltage. It should be over 12.7V before hitting the button. Read it again when you hit the button. You should still see over 10V with the button pushed.

The other possibility (as IronWarrior suggested) is the engine is locked-up. You can check by removing the large round plug on the left engine case and spinning the engine over with a socket/ratchet. I believe you want to spin it counterclockwise - but confirm. If you are not able to spin it over with a reasonable amount of force with a 3/8 dr ratchet, it would suggest there is major engine damage.
Yeah, I'm basing my "seized engine" diagnosis on the fact the bike won't move in N with the clutch out, but will roll with the clutch in. This tells me that the transmission drive shaft is not able to turn when the clutch is engaged, but free when you pull in the clutch. The only way this happens is if the clutch basket can't turn, and since that's meshed to the crank....
This, and the unsuccessful bump attempts** are the only reasons I'm suspecting seized engine over starting/battery problems. The rest of the symptoms (click-but-no-crank-failed-starts) fit for dead battery or other starter system problems.
Checking battery V is easy and free (if you have access to a meter) so it's worth checking, but remember that the motor is likely drawing more current than normal if it's mechanically stuck so the V-drop could be a little misleading (V=IR). If it were me, I'd check to see if the engine can turn with a ratchet/breaker bar before relying on V drop to diagnose a dying battery.

**When you tried to bump it, did it seem like the engine would turn at all, or did the back wheel just lock up? What gear did you try and bump in?
Also note the slipper clutch COULD affect bump starting, but I've bump started mine a few times when I had issues with the starter button. It may, however let the rear wheel keep turning with a seized engine as the clutch would just slip if the back-torque was high enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
First things first - that sounds like a battery issue to me.

Check the battery voltage. It should be over 12.7V before hitting the button. Read it again when you hit the button. You should still see over 10V with the button pushed.

The other possibility (as IronWarrior suggested) is the engine is locked-up. You can check by removing the large round plug on the left engine case and spinning the engine over with a socket/ratchet. I believe you want to spin it counterclockwise - but confirm. If you are not able to spin it over with a reasonable amount of force with a 3/8 dr ratchet, it would suggest there is major engine damage.
Thanks imma try that when I get the ratchet
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, I'm basing my "seized engine" diagnosis on the fact the bike won't move in N with the clutch out, but will roll with the clutch in. This tells me that the transmission drive shaft is not able to turn when the clutch is engaged, but free when you pull in the clutch. The only way this happens is if the clutch basket can't turn, and since that's meshed to the crank....
This, and the unsuccessful bump attempts** are the only reasons I'm suspecting seized engine over starting/battery problems. The rest of the symptoms (click-but-no-crank-failed-starts) fit for dead battery or other starter system problems.
Checking battery V is easy and free (if you have access to a meter) so it's worth checking, but remember that the motor is likely drawing more current than normal if it's mechanically stuck so the V-drop could be a little misleading (V=IR). If it were me, I'd check to see if the engine can turn with a ratchet/breaker bar before relying on V drop to diagnose a dying battery.

**When you tried to bump it, did it seem like the engine would turn at all, or did the back wheel just lock up? What gear did you try and bump in?
Also note the slipper clutch COULD affect bump starting, but I've bump started mine a few times when I had issues with the starter button. It may, however let the rear wheel keep turning with a seized engine as the clutch would just slip if the back-torque was high enough.
So it can’t be the starter relay either cause I hear clicking under my seat and also when pushing it it’s clicking as well so can it be a siezed engine?
 

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So it can’t be the starter relay either cause I hear clicking under my seat and also when pushing it it’s clicking as well so can it be a siezed engine?
I'm not saying it CAN'T be the starter relay. It's possible that the contact side of the relay is messed up, so energizing the coil still physically moves the relay but there's still a problem getting electricity from the battery to the motor.
What I am saying, however, is that the symptoms with the clutch make me think the engine is seized, and that symptoms of a seized engine can be similar to a bad battery/relay/starter motor. In both cases, the electric starter motor is unable to turn the engine. I suppose you could pull off the start motor, find a way to ground the case to the bike frame (which is battery-) and see if pushing the button will turn the start motor. This is not a very good idea, but at least it would tell you if the start system is working or not.
 
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