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Hi everyone, really hoping y'all can help me out here so I can save money from having to tow my motorcycle to shop and getting it fixed. So I left my bike out in the heat for about two days and it died on me. I thought it was a battery problem but I charged it just fine. What happens is, when I turn the key to on, the lights and start-up process goes through like normal. The only problem is, the moment I press the ignition or horn button, the electricals cut out. There is a whirring noise when I press and hold the horn and ignition. Anyone know what the problem could be and how to fix it? If I have to tow it to the shop for repair, I'm probably just gonna sell/salvage the bike since it's giving me too many problems.

Here are the YouTube links to the videos so you can hear and see what's going on.

youtu.be/RwLqjME7KRc

youtu.be/Z7dnlPVQcXc

The second video, surprisingly the horn went off and the engine actually sounded like it was going to turn. But then it just reverted to how it sounded in the first video.
 

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Dead battery.

Check the battery voltage before you hit the button - it should be 12.7V or more. Then check it as you hit the button - it should be over 10V.

I'm guessing you get next to nothing when you hit the button.

Not unusual for a battery to just quit, and it may even show "fully charged" on a "smart" charger. It can even hold standard voltage until under load.

If the battery checks out, next check would be the connections and grounds - but i don't think you'll need to.
 

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Dead battery.

Check the battery voltage before you hit the button - it should be 12.7V or more. Then check it as you hit the button - it should be over 10V.

I'm guessing you get next to nothing when you hit the button.

Not unusual for a battery to just quit, and it may even show "fully charged" on a "smart" charger. It can even hold standard voltage until under load.

If the battery checks out, next check would be the connections and grounds - but i don't think you'll need to.

:iagree:


Just change the freaking bad battery. :excl: Clean the terminals and connectors. :excl: Be good to go. :emot-thumbsup:
 

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Most likely. You can take it in to an auto parts store and they will test it for free just to be sure.
True, but for some reason they don't seem to know what they are doing for the most part.

Others have had it tested and called good, only to find out later it's not.

An inexpensive volt meter will tell you everything you need to know. It's cheap and handy to learn how to use.
 

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Forget the volt meter :excl:
Forget the load test :excl:


Just buy a new " good " battery and install it. You will be saving yourself a lot of time and trouble. :wink2:


Then you will be good to go ............. :emot-thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
To everyone, thank you for your help! You are all lifesavers. I just automatically assumed it wasn't the battery because I bought it 4 months ago. So I thought there was no way it was the battery. And the voltmeter gave me false readings that it was still a good battery. But yeah, I had to buy a new battery from O'reilly and bikes back up and running. Are there any good battery brands y'all buy that you can recommend. My old battery that lasted 4 months was from O'reilly as well so I'm kind of scared it'll die again in 4 months (right when the warranty ends).
 

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To everyone, thank you for your help! You are all lifesavers. I just automatically assumed it wasn't the battery because I bought it 4 months ago. So I thought there was no way it was the battery. And the voltmeter gave me false readings that it was still a good battery. But yeah, I had to buy a new battery from O'reilly and bikes back up and running. Are there any good battery brands y'all buy that you can recommend. My old battery that lasted 4 months was from O'reilly as well so I'm kind of scared it'll die again in 4 months (right when the warranty ends).
Good to hear you got it figured out and back up and running.

The top brand of conventional batteries for cycles is usually considered to be Yuasa.

The original Yuasa battery in my '06 SV lasted over 8 years, and it was still functioning when I replaced it with another.
 

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In my experience all the cheapy ones you get at auto parts stores suck (which is why they come with a 90 day warranty). I have a local place that has their own label where I get all my Batts so not much personal experience with online brands.
A decent lithium batt will last a while.
 

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A battery definitely shouldn't go bad after only 4 months, even crappy cheap ones.. Could be just a dud/fluke?



Do you have some sort of constant drain on it, like USB charger? Or have you completely drained the battery several times by mistake (leaving ignition on, or something like that?)
 
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