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Discussion Starter #1
2013 with less than 6000 miles.

Aftermath




Comparing what a normal rod should look like



The break down:
Rod bolt nut backs out completely and falls down into oil pan.
Rod bearing spin and burn up oil since it's no longer torqued down. Notice the dark discoloration on rod end.
Rod bolt backs out completely.
Rod cap bends away from journal and hell breaks loose.
 

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Ouch! Hope you didn't have an accident after it failed. This happened to a couple others on the forum. It's still under warranty? What do you plan to do?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can you point me to the threads of other similar incidents? What was their course of action? This motor was given to me after it grenaded.
 

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I'll have to go through your thread later since it hard to read on a tiny phone.

Either way Kawasaki should replace the motor regardless of the fact if it is out of warranty or not.
 

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Kawasaki replaced my motor but I was still under warranty. the total cost came out to around 5000. They should of just gave me a new bike
 

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It's just a disaaster of Ninja's quality IMO. Should I worry about the bike I'm gonna buy ?
Let me ask you....How did you break your bike in ? Baby it or harsh (hard) at the first ride ?
 

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It's just a disaaster of Ninja's quality IMO. Should I worry about the bike I'm gonna buy ?
Let me ask you....How did you break your bike in ? Baby it or harsh (hard) at the first ride ?
Hardware failure on the piston rod ends. The nut and bolt in question weren't torqued down enough and the bolt came loose. On others, that same bolt and nut sheered. It's only a very tiny number of bikes though so it's nothing to be freaking out about since every manufactured vehicle will have catastrophic failures such as this. The companies though usually do a very good job of cleaning these kinds of messes up though so it doesn't become a huge shit storm of terrible PR. The OP should be seeing a new engine/transmission at the least for this even if he's out of warranty. A properly built engine shouldn't be shitting itself after a year even with a warranty in place, from a part that the end user has no reason at all to be taking apart and putting back together and even if ridden very hard, wouldn't be the first thing to fail anyways.
 

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It's just a disaaster of Ninja's quality IMO. Should I worry about the bike I'm gonna buy ?
Let me ask you....How did you break your bike in ? Baby it or harsh (hard) at the first ride ?
Im curious too how did you break it in? I never do the factory recommendation bcuz its too questionable. They always say keep it below 4k rpm for so many hundreds of miles then keep it below 7k rpms until after 1k miles. As we all know small displacement at 4k you're not moving very fast & in some cases under the speed limit.

I always let the bike get warmed up. When it idles down from cold start I ride normal nothing hard or full throttle at least for 20min or 10miles and never hold wot. I just bang through the gears and ride like I normally would.

There is so much info on engine break in methods. I always figure racers dont break their engines for 1k miles & during new model demos or journalist test rides they dont break it in for 1k miles either.
 

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Didn't Porsche just have the exact same problem recently? Then it punched a hole, and would start a fire when the oil poured out.

http://www.autoblog.com/2014/03/19/porsche-replace-911-gt3-engines-recall-official/

"Porsche has confirmed that is has identified the problem as resulting "from a loosened screw joint on the connecting rod." The loose connecting rod, Porsche found, damaged the crankcase, which in turn resulted in oil leaking and then – in at least two cases – igniting."
 

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Im curious too how did you break it in? I never do the factory recommendation bcuz its too questionable. They always say keep it below 4k rpm for so many hundreds of miles then keep it below 7k rpms until after 1k miles. As we all know small displacement at 4k you're not moving very fast & in some cases under the speed limit.

I always let the bike get warmed up. When it idles down from cold start I ride normal nothing hard or full throttle at least for 20min or 10miles and never hold wot. I just bang through the gears and ride like I normally would.

There is so much info on engine break in methods. I always figure racers dont break their engines for 1k miles & during new model demos or journalist test rides they dont break it in for 1k miles either.
If you meant me than I mentioned that writting over "Should I worry about the bike I'm gonna buy ?". As for the break in process I'm on your side.
 

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Would it be worth for the people whose warranty has run out, to check the torque on the conrod bolts? Should be as simple as removing the sump? Correct me if im wrong :)
 

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Would it be worth for the people whose warranty has run out, to check the torque on the conrod bolts? Should be as simple as removing the sump? Correct me if im wrong :)
it could also be a bad batch of bolts that either stretch or just snap, but like said earlier, if you look at the amount of bikes sold compared to the amount of failures we have reported here, its not worth stressing over.the Aussie bike comes with 2 year warranty standard. i bought an extra 2 years when i bought the bike only cos it was a new model, was only a few hundred dollars, fingers crossed i never need to use it
 

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it could also be a bad batch of bolts that either stretch or just snap, but like said earlier, if you look at the amount of bikes sold compared to the amount of failures we have reported here, its not worth stressing over.the Aussie bike comes with 2 year warranty standard. i bought an extra 2 years when i bought the bike only cos it was a new model, was only a few hundred dollars, fingers crossed i never need to use it
2 years? I thought it was only one year, sweet thanks for the info :)
 

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2 years? I thought it was only one year, sweet thanks for the info :)
1 year for USA now that im 100% sure on,and im not 100% sure it might also be 1 year for Canada also, and Australia is a standard 2 year warranty from factory. might explain a little why we pay a bit more then USA for the bikes... well... it explains a little anyhow ;)
 

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What would make my chain extremly tight then loose ? After adjusting it to specs i torqed it down.
How many miles do you have on it and did you lube it regularly? Sounds like a tight spot, might need to replace the chain.
 
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