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Hello guys, I searched around to try and find a thread to remove the ABS system completely on the Ninja and failed. My 2014 has it and I'm using it for track purposes; the ABS is a total pain in the ass!
Is there any threads on getting rid of it? Am I overthinking the process and just need to swap out the lines with the steel braided ones I'm going to buy? Then deal with the wiring harness somehow haha...
HELP! Please and thank you!
:grin2:
 

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Having just installed (Galfer) steel braided brake lines on my 2014 ABS model---and as a habitual overthinker myself---I would say yes, you are overthinking it. And no, the ABS does not need to be removed from your track bike. The ABS on this bike is actually quite track friendly. Unlike my Triumph, it will allow the rear wheel to come up. The Triumph, however, came with steel braided brake lines stock---not to mention dual radial calipers and a radial master.

Anyway, I had heard it here (and around the paddock) that the ABS was impossible to bleed on this bike. Impossible, no. Difficult, maybe.

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Here's the stock rear circuit.. what's wrong with this picture?



Not that we care so much about the rear brakes, but clearly the ABS pump is the highest point in that circuit. Obviously if it's bled like this, air will be trapped up there. So what to do?







That was too easy.

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Now here's the front circuit:



Observe the line from the ABS pump to the front caliper. It goes up out of the pump, then down, then back up and makes a 90 degree turn down towards the caliper. So we have local maxima from which air cannot easily escape. So what to do?










Negotiating the caliper out from below is much easier with the gauge cluster panel out of the way. Unfortunately all of the other front end plastics (and headlights) have to come off first. I left it like this overnight with the lever clamped, and in the morning got more bubbles out of the caliper. It was a little tricky to reorient the caliper so the air went towards the bleeder, not back into the brake line.

The Galfer kit retains the stock front hard lines, but they do allow reorienting the ABS pump to practically eliminate local maxima:



I'm surprised the service manual doesn't describe any of this. I don't see how you can free trapped air from a dry system with everything mounted normally. Maybe if you use a power bleeder that flows a lot more fluid, faster.

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In any case, with the braided lines alone (and adjustable levers, of course) I have serviceable two-finger braking. The feel isn't quite there, though, and I expect the rotors will get glazed over again in short order. (And they call these pads "sintered".) I will be installing a Nissin 4-piston caliper and EBC HH pads soon. And maybe the Nissin/Shandy 14mm master cylinder. But I'm happy to report the ABS can stay! I like having ABS.
 
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