haha sounds like you're having fun manI broke it in normal, just like i would do a car, had a few moments where i tested the limits but thats all.
As far as oil change is concerend, ill be taking mine in for the 600 mile service, and im currently sitting at 670 miles, i didn't think i would get to 600 miles that fast.....looks like i was dead wrong!!
How did the slip on and K&N run without the PC5? I have the slip on already and a air filter on the way, should I wait until I have the PC5 to install the air filter?just ride it like normal the day i ride it off the show room floor
i did 80 kilometers around town and never got above 4th gear
then took it on the highway for 2 days and put up over 800 kays on it
off the showroom floor has been fitted with K&N, +1 sprocket & 2 bro's slipon
got the pc5 fitted about 2 months later when it arrived
the slipon & K&N ran ok with no pc5, it highlighted the flat spot under 7 grand, but it was ok,still rideable, the pc5 most definitely made a big difference.How did the slip on and K&N run without the PC5? I have the slip on already and a air filter on the way, should I wait until I have the PC5 to install the air filter?
Yes owning this little bike has been a blast, sometimes i ride out of my way so i can stay on the bike longer, and lately i have been trying to ride it to work. After this service, ill def upgrade to synthetic.haha sounds like you're having fun man
Definitely the "Hard" method... Got bike with less than 1 mile on OD. Let it idle while I put on coat, helmet, gloves, told wife route I was taking home to allow it to warm up slightly.
Took it "Easy" first 4 blocks, (Nothing over 8000 RPM or over about 1/2 open throttle)
For the next mile I kept it under 9000 RPM and never over about 3/4 throttle.
After that, for the next 100 miles it was either throttle FULL open or FULL closed for 90% of the time I was on the bike. After the first mile, I kept RPM's under 12,500, and except when necessary for traffic/safety conditions it rarely went below 7000 RPM.
100 miles of CONSTANT acceleration/deceleration on the EX-300 tires you out a bit... but on my ZX-636 doing the same thing I felt positively "beat up" doing the same thing for 50 miles at a time...
Changed oil at 100 miles. Oil looked "new" except for the slight shimmer of microscopic particles of metal that one would expect to find in the oil... Actually a lot less than I expected to see..
No blackness to the oil apparent at all.. Went with Kawi non-synthetic and Kawi Oil filter for that first chage. Will be going to Amsoil oil/filter at 600-700 miles.
Have about 400 miles on the changed oil, still riding bike hard (but not doing everything in my power to keep the throttle wide-open or fully shut for engine braking) and oil still looks absolutely new in the sight glass, indicating excellent ring seal and no carbon blow-by on the rings.
Remember, (the theoretical reasoning) when doing a "hard" break in, you only have a VERY short period of time to get the rings to seat properly, "babying" it for the first 10 or 20 miles pretty much "uses up" the best chance you have for excellent ring seating... As soon as it's warmed up when new, you want to hammer it hard, and hammer it constantly. After the first 20 or 30 miles, you are well past the stage where the cylinder walls have enough "roughness" to properly wear in the rings... If you baby it for the first little bit, you can NOT make-up for the lost grittiness that you just polished off without the rings being forced into the cylinder walls.
Think of it as needing to wear some metal off of something (the rings) and you have 1 piece of sand paper. You want to wear as much metal off the rings as you can for proper seating. Hard break-in is like going at the rings with a fresh piece of sand paper hot and heavy to get them seated before the sand paper "wears out" and becomes smooth...
Doing the slow break-in is like using the sand paper first on another object and wearing it out, before taking it to the rings.... Once the roughness if gone from the sand paper (cylinder walls) you can't get it back.
The stock tires are absolute crap. They're hard touring tires and do not have the best grip even after they're broken in. So yes, they do need to be broken in, though they do not have oil on them. I suggest switching them out almost immediately to something with better grip. Quite a few of us, myself included, are partial to the Pirelli Diablo Rosso IIs. Even brand new they have incredible grip, and since the tires on the Ninja are small compared to most bikes, they're not really all that expensive.Still good results after the break-in?
Also, someone just called me and said that we (buying the bike for my son-P/U Saturday) needed to break in the tires for a few 100 miles before we get to crazy.
The person said the tires have some oil in them and need to be worked in.
Is this true?