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How did you break in your engine?

  • Hard Method

    Votes: 18 40.9%
  • Method from the manul

    Votes: 12 27.3%
  • Other (comment below)

    Votes: 14 31.8%

  • Total voters
    44
  • Poll closed .
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How did you break in your new engine? The hard method? Manual Method? After how many miles did you change your oil?

Is there a way to bump threads?
 

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Break In

I broke it in normal, just like i would do a car, had a few moments where i tested the limits but thats all.

As far as oil change is concerend, ill be taking mine in for the 600 mile service, and im currently sitting at 670 miles, i didn't think i would get to 600 miles that fast.....looks like i was dead wrong!! :D
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I broke it in normal, just like i would do a car, had a few moments where i tested the limits but thats all.

As far as oil change is concerend, ill be taking mine in for the 600 mile service, and im currently sitting at 670 miles, i didn't think i would get to 600 miles that fast.....looks like i was dead wrong!! :D
haha sounds like you're having fun man :D
 

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I just hit 1000 miles. Only had the bike little over 3 weeks!! I gotta get my oil changed quick. But dont want to soend the miney on the first service. Desler wants slmost 200$ Any tips for a noob on best oil to use?

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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other

just ride it like normal the day i ride it off the show room floor

i did 80 kilometers around town and never got above 4th gear

then took it on the highway for 2 days and put up over 800 kays on it

off the showroom floor has been fitted with K&N, +1 sprocket & 2 bro's slipon

got the pc5 fitted about 2 months later when it arrived
 

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I rode it hard from 1km to 40km (half of it highway). Varying speed and deliberate engine braking. Was a fun ride home from the showroom. From 40 to 150km I rode around town varying speed and engine breaking... from then on, I've just been riding like normal but no constant highway speeds for long times, yet. Changed oil/filter at 240km. Currently at 350km. Service at 800km and then I'll switch to synthetic at 2000km or so.
 

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Drove it normally, kept it under 8K but pushed its limits sometimes, 600mi today, have my first service appointment tomorrow.
 

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Drove it pretty normal the first 60 miles or so but laid into it a couple times after that. I've got ~150 miles now and plan to change the oil tonight. I will switch to synthetic at 600 miles.
 

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just ride it like normal the day i ride it off the show room floor

i did 80 kilometers around town and never got above 4th gear

then took it on the highway for 2 days and put up over 800 kays on it

off the showroom floor has been fitted with K&N, +1 sprocket & 2 bro's slipon

got the pc5 fitted about 2 months later when it arrived
How did the slip on and K&N run without the PC5? I have the slip on already and a air filter on the way, should I wait until I have the PC5 to install the air filter?
 

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How did the slip on and K&N run without the PC5? I have the slip on already and a air filter on the way, should I wait until I have the PC5 to install the air filter?
the slipon & K&N ran ok with no pc5, it highlighted the flat spot under 7 grand, but it was ok,still rideable, the pc5 most definitely made a big difference.
 

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I varied my revs up to 6000rpm with the odd 7000rpm for the first 1000kms. I was mainly around 5500rpm. After the first service att 100kms, I am now riding it like normal.
 

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Pretty much just rode it like normal but made sure to vary RPM for the first 400-500 miles. Oil change was at about 900. Ended up going from 400 to 900 quicker than expected once the weather warmed up. I had called the dealer after I had my service scheduled when I was at about 540 and the service mechanic said I should be fine as long as I wasn't putting a TON extra miles on it. Everything checked out for first service.
 

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haha sounds like you're having fun man :D
Yes owning this little bike has been a blast, sometimes i ride out of my way so i can stay on the bike longer, and lately i have been trying to ride it to work. After this service, ill def upgrade to synthetic.

Im so addicted to riding that now i am looking at my future bike, im going to stay between the 600cc-800cc range, no need for a 1000cc
 

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Definitely the "Hard" method... Got bike with less than 1 mile on OD. Let it idle while I put on coat, helmet, gloves, told wife route I was taking home to allow it to warm up slightly.

Took it "Easy" first 4 blocks, (Nothing over 8000 RPM or over about 1/2 open throttle)

For the next mile I kept it under 9000 RPM and never over about 3/4 throttle.

After that, for the next 100 miles it was either throttle FULL open or FULL closed for 90% of the time I was on the bike. After the first mile, I kept RPM's under 12,500, and except when necessary for traffic/safety conditions it rarely went below 7000 RPM.

100 miles of CONSTANT acceleration/deceleration on the EX-300 tires you out a bit... but on my ZX-636 doing the same thing I felt positively "beat up" doing the same thing for 50 miles at a time...

Changed oil at 100 miles. Oil looked "new" except for the slight shimmer of microscopic particles of metal that one would expect to find in the oil... Actually a lot less than I expected to see..

No blackness to the oil apparent at all.. Went with Kawi non-synthetic and Kawi Oil filter for that first chage. Will be going to Amsoil oil/filter at 600-700 miles.

Have about 400 miles on the changed oil, still riding bike hard (but not doing everything in my power to keep the throttle wide-open or fully shut for engine braking) and oil still looks absolutely new in the sight glass, indicating excellent ring seal and no carbon blow-by on the rings.

Remember, (the theoretical reasoning) when doing a "hard" break in, you only have a VERY short period of time to get the rings to seat properly, "babying" it for the first 10 or 20 miles pretty much "uses up" the best chance you have for excellent ring seating... As soon as it's warmed up when new, you want to hammer it hard, and hammer it constantly. After the first 20 or 30 miles, you are well past the stage where the cylinder walls have enough "roughness" to properly wear in the rings... If you baby it for the first little bit, you can NOT make-up for the lost grittiness that you just polished off without the rings being forced into the cylinder walls.

Think of it as needing to wear some metal off of something (the rings) and you have 1 piece of sand paper. You want to wear as much metal off the rings as you can for proper seating. Hard break-in is like going at the rings with a fresh piece of sand paper hot and heavy to get them seated before the sand paper "wears out" and becomes smooth...

Doing the slow break-in is like using the sand paper first on another object and wearing it out, before taking it to the rings.... Once the roughness if gone from the sand paper (cylinder walls) you can't get it back.
 

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After realizing I would get killed on my ride home from the dealer if I abided by the owners manual, I've been riding it as the situation dictated.
I have new tires so I've backed off a little to scrub them in, but once thats done, ill be keeping the bike in the rpm range it wants for optimal performance.
First service was done 2 days ago
 

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I rode mine normal. Hard sometimes, "ECO" others... Never stayed where manual stated. Did first oil change around 600 miles. I have about 1,900 miles on the bike now and have only had it around 6 weeks...
 

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Definitely the "Hard" method... Got bike with less than 1 mile on OD. Let it idle while I put on coat, helmet, gloves, told wife route I was taking home to allow it to warm up slightly.

Took it "Easy" first 4 blocks, (Nothing over 8000 RPM or over about 1/2 open throttle)

For the next mile I kept it under 9000 RPM and never over about 3/4 throttle.

After that, for the next 100 miles it was either throttle FULL open or FULL closed for 90% of the time I was on the bike. After the first mile, I kept RPM's under 12,500, and except when necessary for traffic/safety conditions it rarely went below 7000 RPM.

100 miles of CONSTANT acceleration/deceleration on the EX-300 tires you out a bit... but on my ZX-636 doing the same thing I felt positively "beat up" doing the same thing for 50 miles at a time...

Changed oil at 100 miles. Oil looked "new" except for the slight shimmer of microscopic particles of metal that one would expect to find in the oil... Actually a lot less than I expected to see..

No blackness to the oil apparent at all.. Went with Kawi non-synthetic and Kawi Oil filter for that first chage. Will be going to Amsoil oil/filter at 600-700 miles.

Have about 400 miles on the changed oil, still riding bike hard (but not doing everything in my power to keep the throttle wide-open or fully shut for engine braking) and oil still looks absolutely new in the sight glass, indicating excellent ring seal and no carbon blow-by on the rings.

Remember, (the theoretical reasoning) when doing a "hard" break in, you only have a VERY short period of time to get the rings to seat properly, "babying" it for the first 10 or 20 miles pretty much "uses up" the best chance you have for excellent ring seating... As soon as it's warmed up when new, you want to hammer it hard, and hammer it constantly. After the first 20 or 30 miles, you are well past the stage where the cylinder walls have enough "roughness" to properly wear in the rings... If you baby it for the first little bit, you can NOT make-up for the lost grittiness that you just polished off without the rings being forced into the cylinder walls.

Think of it as needing to wear some metal off of something (the rings) and you have 1 piece of sand paper. You want to wear as much metal off the rings as you can for proper seating. Hard break-in is like going at the rings with a fresh piece of sand paper hot and heavy to get them seated before the sand paper "wears out" and becomes smooth...

Doing the slow break-in is like using the sand paper first on another object and wearing it out, before taking it to the rings.... Once the roughness if gone from the sand paper (cylinder walls) you can't get it back.

Still good results after the break-in?

Also, someone just called me and said that we (buying the bike for my son-P/U Saturday) needed to break in the tires for a few 100 miles before we get to crazy.
The person said the tires have some oil in them and need to be worked in.
Is this true?

Thanks,
Jim
 

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Still good results after the break-in?

Also, someone just called me and said that we (buying the bike for my son-P/U Saturday) needed to break in the tires for a few 100 miles before we get to crazy.
The person said the tires have some oil in them and need to be worked in.
Is this true?

Thanks,
Jim
The stock tires are absolute crap. They're hard touring tires and do not have the best grip even after they're broken in. So yes, they do need to be broken in, though they do not have oil on them. I suggest switching them out almost immediately to something with better grip. Quite a few of us, myself included, are partial to the Pirelli Diablo Rosso IIs. Even brand new they have incredible grip, and since the tires on the Ninja are small compared to most bikes, they're not really all that expensive.
 
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