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Thanks again for the detailed response!



This was my plan, but it was the plugs/wires I was concerned with. They are tight (cyl #2 shorter than Cyl #1). Worried I might have caused damage pulling on them. I will see if I can free up some slack and get them to reach.



The relief valve was in fact near the gauge, on the coupler that mates hose to gauge. Unfortunately, both testers I have are like this.



I looked at the top of the cylinder walls when I had the head off. Never removed the jugs, so I couldn't see the entire stroke. The walls looked OK. Some build-up near the top combustion area. One cylinder measured very close to outside tolerance. When I get it apart I will get measurements of everything, and hopefully this highlights something obvious.



I tried to get codes from the Dash, but following the instructions in manual never started the described sequence. I figured this might be because there is no ignition? The procedure starts with the ignition, and I only have a kill switch (on/off wired to the ignition delete linked above). I was down the dash rabbit hole a while back fearing the dash might be damaged from removing it and not having it sit perfectly upright. But it now seems to be acting as it should, other than the lack of test-mode.

Going to be doing a leakdown test soon to see if this provides more info. I report back once I have some solid data.

...I'm going to need that luck! :)
I've used their ignition harness on my 250 race bike without any issues. Let's double check:

1. key ON, measure voltage of grey wire where it entre ECU connector (ECU connected)

2. key ON, measure voltage of each wire at ignition coils (coils connected).

It really does appear to be ignition issue since it doesn't run on starting-fluid.
 

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2015 300 ABS
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The head is definitely aluminum. There was warpage that I lapped back into spec before installing the new head gasket last time around.

Can I do the ignition checks you describe using the on/off switch? I do not have a key at all. I only have this kill-type on/off switch and the starter button plugged into the ignition delete.

As an update, I did a leakdown test and it’s leaking like a sieve. From just listening by ear up close, it seems to be coming from BOTH the valves and the rings. It was so loud it was hard to tell. But there was hissing at both the head area and the oil fill hole.

I’m still into checking the ignition before I tear the engine apart again - since that’s the rabbit hole I originally jumped down :). Best to rule it out as an issue completely, even though it seems there is work to be done on compression issues inside the engine.

Again, your help is much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Need to install those caps very gently and evenly. Otherwise you can actually snap cam!
This is what concerned me. When installing the caps, when all lines, marks etc are in correct position, there was zero chance of installing the cap “gently.” That’s what required moving the cams to a different position for caps to be tightened down. Then I rolled to the original location (I am careful not to turn the crank in reverse) to double check that all still lined up correctly. It did. So I called it done - because I saw no other way to get it done any other way.
 

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2015 300 ABS
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Just a quick update:

Seems my biggest issue is lack of compression. Oil down the spark plug holes increased compression - seemed like rings. Did a leakdown test - but it was insane, with so much hissing sound it was impossible to narrow it down to one location. Valves AND rings???

After tearing the motor apart again I found the cylinders to be very close to out of spec. Also, the rings were pretty well stuck in their grooves (carbon or oil?), with barely any spring to take up the gap. That coupled with the fact that the head needed quite a bit of lapping last tear-down, I decided to go ahead and replace the head and jugs.

Doing a quick gasoline leak-test on the valves showed 7 of the 8 valves leaking like crazy. Good times.

Hoping between the old and “new” (used low mileage on eBay) parts, I’ll have a good set of jugs, 8 good valves and 2 decent pistons. I ordered up some new rings and valve stem seals.

Waiting for all to arrive. Fingers crossed…
 

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2015 300 ABS
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Hopefully this is the last entry for this particular saga. I finally got the new (eBay) head and jugs cleaned up, valves lapped, valve shims set, fresh gaskets etc, and the whole motor buttoned back up.

Once back in the frame, everything hooked up and ready to go - I have to admit that I was a bit pessimistic about it starting. i turned the motor over a few times to get some oil flowing. And then BAM! Fired right up. What a feeling!

This bike has taken me down a rabbit hole that I was hoping to avoid. But it was to be expected from a cheaper track bike that had clearly been thrashed and abused.

Now it’s time to get back to more of the fun stuff. Fabricating some custom parts to tidy it up, eliminating unnecessary electrics, fixing the race fairings, and general cleaning. I want to thank all of you who helped me through this process. Appreciate your time and support.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Excellent! Please share any other work you do in the future if you feel like it. I like reading these types of threads to see how other people get along with their bikes!
Will do. If things continue to take a turn for the better - I may start up a new thread to keep track of the more positive things this build has to offer :)
 
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