I've used their ignition harness on my 250 race bike without any issues. Let's double check:Thanks again for the detailed response!
This was my plan, but it was the plugs/wires I was concerned with. They are tight (cyl #2 shorter than Cyl #1). Worried I might have caused damage pulling on them. I will see if I can free up some slack and get them to reach.
The relief valve was in fact near the gauge, on the coupler that mates hose to gauge. Unfortunately, both testers I have are like this.
I looked at the top of the cylinder walls when I had the head off. Never removed the jugs, so I couldn't see the entire stroke. The walls looked OK. Some build-up near the top combustion area. One cylinder measured very close to outside tolerance. When I get it apart I will get measurements of everything, and hopefully this highlights something obvious.
I tried to get codes from the Dash, but following the instructions in manual never started the described sequence. I figured this might be because there is no ignition? The procedure starts with the ignition, and I only have a kill switch (on/off wired to the ignition delete linked above). I was down the dash rabbit hole a while back fearing the dash might be damaged from removing it and not having it sit perfectly upright. But it now seems to be acting as it should, other than the lack of test-mode.
Going to be doing a leakdown test soon to see if this provides more info. I report back once I have some solid data.
...I'm going to need that luck!
1. key ON, measure voltage of grey wire where it entre ECU connector (ECU connected)
2. key ON, measure voltage of each wire at ignition coils (coils connected).
It really does appear to be ignition issue since it doesn't run on starting-fluid.