this photo isnt the best, but it will do, its taken with my mobile phone, its a photo of the airhorn and wiring harness and the plate to mount it with
the idea is simple.
remove the left faring off the bike and remove the upper 6mm bolt from the bike that holds the stock horn and top mount of the radiator to the bike. replace it with a 40 millimetre 6mm bolt so theres some extra bolt hanging out the back of the radiator.
attach the aluminium plate i have bolted to the airhorn already to the long bolt we now have installed thru the radiator mounting point.
the original horn can stay on the bike, but wont be used. you could save a tiny bit of weight if you remove it, but why bother, it wont make any difference.
the top of the aluminium plate i have already drilled a small 6.5mm hole in to it to slide over the new bolt and theres 2 nuts to hold it on, a nyloc and a standard nut, put the standard one on first, then the nylock just to be double sure it wont fall off.
im also toying with the idea of attaching a fishing line tether to it incase the aluminium plate breaks from vibration.
if i tether it, then when/if the plate brakes the horn will drop down slightly and not all the way down and past the fairing and drag on the road and might even cause me an accident.
the fishing line tether is used on the end of fishing lines to attach your hook to, usually made from some kind of wire.
im sorry im not all that knowledgeable about fishing but those who are will know what im talking about
put the tether on over the bolt, then put the aluminium plate on then the bolts so it will always be there attached solidly to the bike, do this at both ends of the plate where it attaches to bike and where it attaches to the airhorn.
i will have a chat to the dealer and get them to fit this to my bike rather then me do it, they need to pull my bike to bits to fit everything i rodered for it anyhow so no big dramas there.
i was going to write a small article on how to wire up a realy to run your airhorn but i did a quick google search and i found one instead
http://www.nathanielsalzman.com/diy/diy-stebel-nautilus-air-horn/
and the wiring diagram is exactly how i did it as well
always use a relay to power anything bigger then the stock horn, no matter if it a motorcycle or car, the stock wiring isnt built to carry the high current needed to drive airhorns like these.they are cheap and readily available at parts stores if one ever fails on your bike. a wise idea is to carry a spare with you anyhow.
one thing this diagram doesn’t show that it should is a fuse on the wire from the battery. it should always have a fuse attached to it, and put it on the wire so it is as close to the battery as possible.reason for this is so if you put the fuse at the end of the wire nearest the horn and the wire breaks before the fuse, you will have a live power cable floating around shorting out and causing grief. if you put the fuse at the wire that connects to the battery then that’s much smarter, not live wires floating round then, the fuse will blow and then go dead.
the wires that go to the stock horn get connect to the relay on port number 85 and 86
12 volt positive (+) goes to port 30 on the relay
it gets switched to port 87 on the relay, run that wire to the horn positive (+) side
