Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forums banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm terrible in this regard as I have never really dont much maintenance to my motorcycle. I tend to just drop it off every year at a friends shop and tell him to replace what needs to be. So with that said.. What does everyone else do in terms of maintenance? What's a good schedule to follow for things like engine oil, brakes, spark plugs, battery, chain, sprocket, shaft drive, belt, etc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
Is it true that when your braking in the bike, you cannot go over 5000 rpm on the bike until the bike reaches 600 miles and then it gets an oil change to check how the brake in is coming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
523 Posts
There's no reason you can't exceed the recommended RPM, some people even recommend riding the bike hard right out of the gate, but yeah, the break-in procedure generally includes a period of riding at limited RPM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
first service isn't hard, most of the maintenance services are easy anyway, but does it void the warranty for not having it service @the authorised dealer?
I have Been told by me dealer no it doesn't, but apparently its alot easy to make claims on stuff like engine etc with the booked stamped off

and as cbzdel mentioned 5000km valve adjustment it gonna be the painful one
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I'm a complete newb when it comes to everything motorcycle. My first bike I bought earlier today, a brand new 2013 Ninja 300. I'm also pretty curious about the break in. The dealers also told me doing my own stuff won't void warranty. However they said that I shouldn't ride it hard (there was no specific rpm range mentioned) until after 600 miles and that on that marker to come back in for a full tune up. Every single other source I can find says otherwise. Most all of them saying that you should max throttle/low rpm it for the first 40/50 miles then oil change. then again till around 300. Their reasoning is that by the time you get to 50 miles riding that way there's a fair amount of metal flaking floating around in the oil and clogging up the filter in which case your motor switches to 'bypass' meaning it no longer filters at all, or very little. Is there any legitimacy to that? I'm only about 23 miles deep so I'm trying to figure the best way to go about it before I get to the point of no return.

I also wanted an option on distance. I bought this bike mostly for commuting. I have a fair bit of hwy driving I need to do. Should I not put it though the constant high speeds and roughness of the freeway and mountains untill after a certain point?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I'm a complete newb when it comes to everything motorcycle. My first bike I bought earlier today, a brand new 2013 Ninja 300. I'm also pretty curious about the break in. The dealers also told me doing my own stuff won't void warranty. However they said that I shouldn't ride it hard (there was no specific rpm range mentioned) until after 600 miles and that on that marker to come back in for a full tune up. Every single other source I can find says otherwise. Most all of them saying that you should max throttle/low rpm it for the first 40/50 miles then oil change. then again till around 300. Their reasoning is that by the time you get to 50 miles riding that way there's a fair amount of metal flaking floating around in the oil and clogging up the filter in which case your motor switches to 'bypass' meaning it no longer filters at all, or very little. Is there any legitimacy to that? I'm only about 23 miles deep so I'm trying to figure the best way to go about it before I get to the point of no return.

I also wanted an option on distance. I bought this bike mostly for commuting. I have a fair bit of hwy driving I need to do. Should I not put it though the constant high speeds and roughness of the freeway and mountains untill after a certain point?
Hi there, I have owned roughly 12 motorcycles over the course of my 42 years, been riding since 13 and got licensed at 14. I have always changed the oil at 50 miles then 150, then 300. You will be amazed at the amount of metal shavings trapped in there initially at the first oil change. You can NEVER go wrong with changing the oil and filter often.

As for the break in procedure, I have always varied my RPM's and run the bike through the rev range, max throttle every now and again followed by completely letting go of the throttle so it snaps back and let's the engine brake the bike back down to speed. This helps to really set the engine in good, just my personal opinion mind you, but I have never had an engine fail me yet.

Personally I have nothing against synthetic oils, I know people that swear by them, I like to use Rotella-T as it contains Zinc and that also helps with sealing the tiny scratches and such to the piston sleeve thereby maintaining compression. Again my two cents.

Don't thrash the bike, but do ride it aggressively and try not to stay in a certain RPM for prolonged periods.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,370 Posts
I also wanted an option on distance. I bought this bike mostly for commuting. I have a fair bit of hwy driving I need to do. Should I not put it though the constant high speeds and roughness of the freeway and mountains untill after a certain point?
ride it like you stole it right from word go.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

i have done this with ever new car/motorcycle i have owned, never had a drama yet
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
I've had several bike but never brand new. I've always heard the best way to break a bike in is to ride it like you stole it. Or ride it how you plan to ride all the time. If you baby it during break in, she won't perform optimal when you need it to.
Obviously redlining it with metal flakes floating in your oil is a bad idea but by no means should you try to stay under 3k / 4k RPMs. Just ride it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
It was recommended to me by my dealership to keep it under 6000 rpms until my first service at 600 miles. So far it hasn't accumulated any miles as it's been sitting in my garage until I can't take the MSF course next month! Lol

Sent from my SGH-T769 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
958 Posts
I had to ignore break in rules cause I bought my bike and almost immediately had to get on the interstate to get it home. What I did was ride it around a bit to get the engine hot, then did some break-in in the back of the dealership going to just below redline and off the throttle...in 1st gear so I wan't going very fast. Did this a couple dozen times, then hit the stop and go traffic of San Antonio, then onto the interstate. Changed the oil and filter with 45miles on it when I got home to full synthetic. Changed oil and filter again at 525 miles, but I have continued to ride the bike hard. It runs fine. I used to go by the book and those engines did fine too, so I can't say which is better. Really, you wouldn't expect a problem no matter how you ran the engine unless you didn't warm the bike up before riding hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
I've got about 25 miles on the ODO. I've rode hard, done some engine breaking, short shifting, roll-ons, etc... Every sort of riding situation I can thing of, I did it.
Just picked up a factory oil filter $11.99 to do the first oil change at around 35 - 40 miles. I'll do it again at about 150 miles then again at 500 miles.
I have never paid $12 for a filter as I usually go FRAM five dollar special all day. After about 500 miles, I'll go back to the fram filters though.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top