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So I was riding around 60 mph and my oil light come on and I lost power then it shut off I then got it started to get it off the road check the oil and it was low added 2 q and then it started it and it run okay but now it knocks on start up
 

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Welcome to the forum, Nighthawk.
Your post only contains a statement, and no question. Is there something you want to know, specifically?

First question that needs answering: why did it lose 2 quarts of oil?
Second question that needs answering: is the engine permanently damaged?
 

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Sorry new to this thing.. it was low on oil but it ran fine tell it lost power there was no oil leak or signs of one and the only thing now is there a knocking noise when start up and worsen I’m. It sure what it is
 

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THAT does not sound good at all! :cry:

You still haven't asked a question; is there something specific you want to know?
 

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If you want to know if there is any damage, change your oil and look at what comes out. If the rod bearing are toast you will see bronze-colored flakes in the oil.

This serves a PSA to any small Ninja owners - check your oil regularly.

The little Ninjas tend to use some, mostly through the crankcase ventilation system that vents into the airbox. Running at high RPMs on the hwy for extended amounts of time is when it's going to happen the most.
 

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Regrettably, this engine might be toast. 😢
The knocking could be cylinder wall warping or bottom end bearing failure. Going by your description in post #1, this may have been caused by the engine or parts of the engine overheating due to lack of lubrication.

HOWEVER, let's start with asking how you know that the bike needed 2 quarts of oil;
1) do you know & understand how to properly check for correct oil level?
2) when was the last time the bike was at correct oil level (how many days or miles ago?)?
2.5) what oil is in the engine?
3) how soon did you notice the 'oil light', and how soon afterward did the 'engine die'?
 

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Here is what it sounds like
That doesn't sound like a "knock" to me - more of a "tick".

Use a screwdriver as a stethoscope to determine the location. Typically a bottom-end issue has a deeper sound and slower pace.

That sounds more top-end related to me.

I'd still drain the oil and have a look for damaged bearing material.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Regrettably, this engine might be toast. 😢
The knocking could be cylinder wall warping or bottom end bearing failure. Going by your description in post #1, this may have been caused by the engine or parts of the engine overheating due to lack of lubrication.

HOWEVER, let's start with asking how you know that the bike needed 2 quarts of oil;
1) do you know & understand how to properly check for correct oil level?
2) when was the last time the bike was at correct oil level (how many days or miles ago?)?
2.5) what oil is in the engine?
3) how soon did you notice the 'oil light', and how soon afterward did the 'engine die'?
That doesn't sound like a "knock" to me - more of a "tick".

Use a screwdriver as a stethoscope to determine the location. Typically a bottom-end issue has a deeper sound and slower pace.

That sounds more top-end related to me.

I'd still drain the oil and have a look for damaged bearing material.
That doesn't sound like a "knock" to me - more of a "tick".

Use a screwdriver as a stethoscope to determine the location. Typically a bottom-end issue has a deeper sound and slower pace.

That sounds more top-end related to me.

I'd still drain the oil and have a look for damaged bearing material.
1 yes there was no oil in the eye glass and I used gas station oil to fill it i think it was 10w30
2 a month or so don’t take it out much it only has 13 k
3 the oil light come on after it dead and I restarted it no maybe like 5 min but there was no noise just loss of power
 

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1 yes there was no oil in the eye glass and I used gas station oil to fill it i think it was 10w30
2 a month or so don’t take it out much it only has 13 k
3 the oil light come on after it dead and I restarted it no maybe like 5 min but there was no noise just loss of power
I would definitely change the oil then. Regular automotive 10W-30 isn't a very good choice for a cycle engine.

If the oil light came on only after the engine quit running you may be fine. That's what it should do. The light comes on anytime there is no oil pressure.

If the light came on when it was running at higher RPMs most likely there will be significant damage.

191145...I get it...
 

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I am still not quite sure why there appears to have been sudden engine oil loss of 2 quarts. :unsure:

And just to be clear: with the bike in full upright position (not resting on its kickstand), the sight-glass should be about half full, or more accurately: between the low and high marks.

Could the oil pump rotor [assembly] be bad?
 

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Yeah if the engine stopped running due to low oil, there is almost certainly major damage. Most likely in the tight tolerance areas, like journal bearings, camshaft bearings, and maybe even the piston rings and walls. For those areas, oil films are part of the tolerance between the parts, and oil pressure is what keeps them from rubbing.

My N300 has almost 40,000 miles on it, 2014, and it's been through hell and back. But, its never been through extended running without oil. At this age, you gotta be religious with the oil changes.

In my experience, the 300 motor very very slowly consumes oil. I can make 3000 miles of riding (hard aggressive riding, track, and commuting) but the oil level will not stay full after all of that. So usually half way between changes, I gotta top it off. I change the oil often because I think I have more blowby than the average 300 engine, so the oil dirties a little quicker than most.

That said, when you do oil changes, you absolutely must make sure there are no leaks. Wet the filter O-ring when assembling, use a new crush washer on the drain bolt, check the drain bolt for metal shavings, most importantly, check the oil level before you ride, at least once per day of riding. For example, the cold start of the day I check.

If your oil leaks that fast for real, you need to find the leak. Take off the fairings and inspect, especially around the valve cover gasket.

I hate to agree, but something in there is shot, and it's going to need significant repairs. Costs of engine parts are insane for new ones, so if multiple bearings are shot, I'd just part the bike out and get your money back.

Good luck.

-Mike
 

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Here is what it sounds like

I experienced the same ticking sounds and similar oil issue. My ninja was low on oil - but well within spec and safe to ride.

However, I did start it up once and heard that noise - which to me sounds exactly like a Ducati dry clutch. I'm crossing my fingers the low oil level just screwed something up with the clutch, and maybe a clutch replacement is all you need.

Does pulling the clutch lever in vs letting it out affect the sound?
 
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