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Discussion Starter #1
Been doing some research on front suspension..

Trying to decide what to do.. From what I have read on the 250R boards there are the following mods:

-heavier fork oil
-new springs
-emulators
-pre-load adjusters

-or- as a few did a complete front end swap from another bike.

Now I have a set of pre-load adjusters, I am just waiting on installing them thinking do I want to do anything else.

The bike is NOT a track bike, might go a time or two but really its a commuter / weekend fun bike.

I am trying to see what I could gain from any of the above noted mods, I really dont even know what any other them do other than the pre-load adjusters.

All I know is that I have a stock 250R with 4000 miles and the front end is softer than a sponge! It seems like the front end drops a 6" when I hit the brakes :mad: I just dont want the 300 to end up like this!
 

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Heavier oil will stiffen up the front forks. If you feel they are too squishy and flex too much, heavier oil will help that.

Generally those who want a stiffer front fork would be those who do aggressive riding.

I honestly don't know much about forks myself. Always used stock stuff in my bigger bikes, but I keep reading its recommended to go heavier and use different springs if you plan on tracking it or do aggressive twisty riding. For some reason, I feel like Peanut could shed some light here. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I am not an agressive rider my any means but I feel for even harder street riding the front fork is way to soft!

Peanut was the one person I wanted to answer the thread haha :) I though other people could benifit from his answers so I did not want to just PM him haha!!

It just worries me that on my stock 250R after 4000 miles the forks are FAR to soft.. I would rather mod my 300 now if I could prevent this from happening in the next year when I hit the 4000 mile mark..
 

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Stiffer springs and emulators will fix the nose dive problem. It worked great on my 250. The 300 doesn't seem to have the same problem yet, but if it develops then ill put in emulators and a stiffer spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Because I am a suspension newbie can anyone give me the differences between stiff springs and emulators?

If I only did one which one? Is it pointless to do one and not the other? Or do you need to do the two together to make a difference?

I just don't know what is overkill for my riding style and what is not even worth messing with..

I think what I want to fix the most it the crazy bounce I get when hitting bumps in corners.. My bigger bikes never had this problem, but hitting a bump on the 250R/300 around a corner I feel like the bike is going to bottom out and then on the rebound I feel like I am going to fly off the bike.. (sort of exaggerated but you get the point haha)
 

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Do the emulators combined with preload adjusters if you're looking to it yourself.

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Discussion Starter #8
I have read some bad reviews on progressive springs for daily rider motorcycles.. Maybe someone can give me some info proving that wrong?
 

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My complaint is the forks hydro locking, or packing in high speed compressions. They can't flow oil fast enough so they just stop and don't extend before the next hit.

Emulators should fix this as they replace the damper function and you drill out the damper holes to let oil pass at a greater rate.

You should measure your "race sag" front and rear. Get a baseline and experiment with more preload when you get the adjusters in them. Depending on where your sag is, you determine spring rate.

To measure race sag, get a helper. Extend the suspension all the way and measure at a repeatable point the distance, (in mm typically) from the axle to the triple, for example. Now, in your riding gear, sit on the bike in a neutral position, bounce it a few times and balance on a toe or have another helper balance the bike at the bar while your weight compresses the suspension. Repeat the measurement and subtract it from the first.

This is your race sag. Bike sag is the same process but you measure the bike with only its weight on it.

We can then start working on a good sag number, generally 1/3 of total suspension travel is a good baseline. i.e. 12" travel, race sag of 4"

The 300 has 5.2" rear wheel travel so 1.7333 or 1-3/4" is close enough. I'm at 1.5" but have a GSXR shock and thats another story.

Front is 4.7" so 1.56" of race sag is a starting point.

I haven't measured my front as i felt it was OK, I'll do it later.

I find the stock "valving" decent except on the repetetive stuttery stuff. High speed compression, which is not the bike speed but the speed of the suspension contraction.

210 lbs and aggressive street rider on busted roads.
 

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My complaint is the forks hydro locking, or packing in high speed compressions. They can't flow oil fast enough so they just stop and don't extend before the next hit.

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Wouldn't heavier oil make this worse?

When you start changing up the front does anything need to be done to the rear to maintain the balance?
 

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Wouldn't heavier oil make this worse?

When you start changing up the front does anything need to be done to the rear to maintain the balance?

Yes, it should. If you ride on very smooth roads then it would just slow down the action both on compression and rebound. For my issue it will not help. NJ-NY roads are pretty beat.

The balance depends on the factory settings. Assuming they are well balanced, and your weight is on the target they were built for, then ideally you match the changes. Rider preference plays a role too.
 

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I'm looking at Rincor intiminators, close to the Race Tech Emulators but with a neat little valve which is supposed to add low speed compression over the base valving. I sent them an email to see if they have a set for the 37mm forks, they list one for the pre-08 but it says it is a 39mm valve???

I'll follow up, install is less involved too, dump oil, pull out the fork spring, drop them in, refill with 5w and reassemble. Couldn't be much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Can anyone explain springs vs emulators, from my readings on the 250r forums springs are cheaper and easier and provide much change... I still have yet to install my preloads, thinking do it once and do it right..
 

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Springs are the force that supports your weight, and the bike. The damping controls that force when the springs are compressed or rebounding, (expanding back to their resting state with the weight on them).

More spring rate has already been added to the 300 over the 250 from what I've read. Adding preload increases your ride height.

You need to find your race sag on the front/rear and decide where you want it to be. I'm not feeling a spring rate problem. I have a damping problem. My forks can't rebound fast enough to get open enough to absorb another sharp hit, so they stop moving basically. I need to increase the flow of oil, but still want it controlled and to get that you need something more sophisticated than a damper rod.

The damper rod is just a tube with a few holes in it and the oil flows out those holes. It restricts the flow to slow the compression and rebound of the spring. It is very, very limited in its abilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Gotcha, I understand and completely agree with at what you see as a problem..

What did you find out about the Ricor intiminators?? Is it a type when they listed it as fitting 2008 and older?? If it fits 2008 it should fit anything up to 2012, and additionally now the 300..
 

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Gotcha, I understand and completely agree with at what you see as a problem..

What did you find out about the Ricor intiminators?? Is it a type when they listed it as fitting 2008 and older?? If it fits 2008 it should fit anything up to 2012, and additionally now the 300..

The pre 08 250 had 36mm tubes. I sent them an email, let me see if I can call them right now...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Keep us posted I read good things about the Ricor Intiminators, and they are very reasonably priced as well :D
 

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No answer on the phone. I'll keep trying to get the info. With our forks, adding just about any devive to control oil flow will be better IMO.

Another route is a conversion internally to true catridge forks. There are a few companies that do this but it gets $$$.
 

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I'm scared to touch my suspension as improper suspension can cause tank slap.


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