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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know of a reasonable switch/mount for me to hook up to my power commander to use as a launch limiter? I am thinking of taking apart the kill switch assembly and just installing a small switch in there to use. But I am open to ideas.
 

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Thought I'd add a little more to my last post as it's not very informative.

1) Electronic configuration, you'll need to see if your PCV is working properly and then enable launch control.

1.a) Connect your PCV to your computer and hit "get map" from your power commander software window. If your map comes up, you're good! If not, then update the firmware and re-install your map from the website or wherever you have one saved.

1.b) Open your PCV software again if necessary and select Power Commander Tools > configure > Feature Enables and Input Selections.

1.c) from this window look for "Launch Control", set to Switch Input 1 (or 2 if you have something installed on input 1) and select Configure.

1.d) From here, set the time delay for the limiter to arm, set your "Activate Switch Style to "Normally Open" and whatever RPM you're comfortable with (the limiter will actually go a little beyond what you set it at), then select OK > OK.

2) Now your "switch". Your switch will be the clutch switch, the only things necessary will be one single strand of wire and knowledge! 18g braided wire will do, it needs to be small enough to fit into the little holes on your PCV and strong enough not to break from a little bending, zip ties optional but nice.

NOTE: you can do this one of two ways, connect at the clutch lever or the wiring harness under the fuel tank. Under the fuel tank is better IMO.

2.a) Remove all fairings and tank from bike as necessary.

2.b) Locate the ground wire coming from your clutch lever. It is Black with a purple stripe. Cut it from the top of whichever plug you decide to use or remove the wire end from the harness and solder the new wire to the ground wires end cap and then replace in the harness (if you cut it, leave a couple inches extra hanging out of the harness so you can strip it and connect it to the new wire as well with a wire nut or clamp)

2.c) Connect your ground wire end to the new hookup wire you provided and rout it up to wherever you have your PCV located (preferably the same way your PCV wire is routed).

2.d) Strip about a 1/4" off the end of your hookup wire and loosen the closest screw to the PCV wire bundle (or the third screw if you have something installed in the first slot)

2.e) Insert your wire end into the hole corresponding to the screw you loosened and then tighten the screw. (you have to push through a rubber hole, you'll feel the wire slip in and then you'll feel the insulation hit the rubber hole. give it a good push ;) )

3) Test it out! turn the bike on, start it and rev the engine. The engine should rev normally. Then pull the clutch in and rev the bike, it should stop somewhere close to where you set it and act like you're red lining it.

3) if all is good button everything up and try it out on the road. Don't start too high, wouldn't want any accidents now.
If it doesn't work, then check your work.

Check that everything is working as you go along and if you have any questions please ask.

Disclaimer:
This is how it works on my bike, no guarantees it'll work on yours but I see no reason it shouldn't unless Kawa uses random wire colors
Also when I talked to the Power Commander people they told me to use the second hole instead of the first, needless to say, that doesn't work :rolleyes:
Trial and error is what got this working for me.

Sorry about my snarky first post.

!Edit:! When you cut your new wire into the middle of your clutches ground wire, connect everything back up or your clutch switch won't operate correctly for starting the bike in gear. hahah sorry about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Haha, yeah I got the power commander with ignition module. I got it all installed yesterday and got the bike running but today was the first day I rode it and I have to say WoW.... I am impressed.

But what I was asking is a handlebar mount switch, I decided to send Dynojet a e-mail about it and this is the response:

"Does the bike have a clutch switch that you can use?"

so your post answered my question
 

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There are some caveats i haven't figured out yet though. If you hook everything up it will work with the kickstand down but not when the kickstand is up. if you hook it up without the clutch switch then you can't start it in gear.
I'm still trying to figure it out so everything works together.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think I have it figured out, you'll need a diode in line with the ground wire to prevent voltage from the kick stand coming back up through the line going to the PCV.
I'll post again when I get it all together!
Wouldnt the diode also intefear with the clutch switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm still trying to figure out why even an upgraded ninja 300 would need launch control to begin with?
We have a 1/8th mile track down in florida known as the "House of Hook" I have yet to take my bike out but have seen a few people launch thier bikes too hard and were unable to make a solid pass, the launch limiter will allow you to be more consistant out of the hole allowing you to make solid passes and probably help you go a few rounds.

Also its bad ass sitting at a red light and making your bike two step.
 

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We have a 1/8th mile track down in florida known as the "House of Hook" I have yet to take my bike out but have seen a few people launch thier bikes too hard and were unable to make a solid pass, the launch limiter will allow you to be more consistant out of the hole allowing you to make solid passes and probably help you go a few rounds.

Also its bad ass sitting at a red light and making your bike two step.
Just didn't think that even modified, this bike had the torque to necessitate all the work to install it and make it function properly. The bikes that start getting this as a function make 50-60 more torque and only weigh 40lbs more than our bike does. Just didn't see it possible to really mess up with a hard launch with this bike since you don't have to worry about power wheelies or breaking the back loose on a botched launch like super and hyper sports do.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just didn't think that even modified, this bike had the torque to necessitate all the work to install it and make it function properly. The bikes that start getting this as a function make 50-60 more torque and only weigh 40lbs more than our bike does. Just didn't see it possible to really mess up with a hard launch with this bike since you don't have to worry about power wheelies or breaking the back loose on a botched launch like super and hyper sports do.
True, but still drag racing comes down to consistancy. If I launch at 5k one pass then launch at 5.1k the next my end resault will be off by a few tenths, and in bracket racing a few tenths can cost you the race.
 

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IT will work with the sidestand up, just put it in gear, disengage the clutch and then pull it back in and then it will function. We need to see a reset of the input.

The kill switch from many dirtbikes works really good as the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
IT will work with the sidestand up, just put it in gear, disengage the clutch and then pull it back in and then it will function. We need to see a reset of the input.

The kill switch from many dirtbikes works really good as the switch.
Confirmed, This works kinda.

Edit:So I pulled out of my neighbor hood and got to the first straight stop I came to. I reset the connection like dynojet suggested and tested it, Everything was working great the bike was holding at 6k. I got set, pulled the throttle to 100% and released the clutch, The bike jumped then started popping again. The bike was stuck at 6k Lol.... I got home and tried changing the switch type to no avail.
 

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Wouldn't the diode also interfere with the clutch switch?
A normal diode will allow electricity to run in one direction with little to no resistance but give almost infinite resistance going in the opposite direction.

The clutch is a normally open switch while the the kickstand is closed when up. Since a voltage would be present with the kickstand up, it will send a signal to the PCV by running backwards up the clutch ground wire through to your PCV signal wire.
That is where the diode comes into play, only letting the flow of electricity go one way from the clutch ground wire downstream of your splice for the PCV but before the kickstand ground comes into play.



Don't have time to play with it today, but I'll probably have it done Tuesday with a full DIY including pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A normal diode will allow electricity to run in one direction with little to no resistance but give almost infinite resistance going in the opposite direction.

The clutch is a normally open switch while the the kickstand is closed when up. Since a voltage would be present with the kickstand up, it will send a signal to the PCV by running backwards up the clutch ground wire through to your PCV signal wire.
That is where the diode comes into play, only letting the flow of electricity go one way from the clutch ground wire downstream of your splice for the PCV but before the kickstand ground comes into play.



Don't have time to play with it today, but I'll probably have it done Tuesday with a full DIY including pictures.
You know what size diode we will need?
 

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You know what size diode we will need?
Sorry I'm going to have to put the project on hold for a LONG time, work calls and I will have no time to continue this any time soon :/

Anyway, diodes are rated to how much amps they can hold off in one direction. The other direction is pretty much no resistance so you could use any size really as long as it can hold back the few volts coming through (I haven't verified the amount of electricity coming through the circuit yet!)

Go to radio shack and I think the smallest one I saw was 1 or 2 amps here, that will be plenty enough! Just make sure it's blocking the electricity from downstream the PCV splice in. And the electricity should flow from the unmarked end to the marked end IE: unmarked end to clutch, marked end to ground side.

Also, "zener" diodes work completely different! Do not use one of those :p
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Got everything set up like your diagram and the bike does the same stuff as it did before

Okay dont need a diod, run your pcv wire off the black wire, it will register 4volts untill you pull the clutch in all the way, then it drops to .63. Got mine working now.
 

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Got everything set up like your diagram and the bike does the same stuff as it did before

Okay dont need a diod, run your pcv wire off the black wire, it will register 4volts untill you pull the clutch in all the way, then it drops to .63. Got mine working now.
You beat me to it! Thanks for investigating, works been taking up all my time lately and my friend still has not returned my multimeter....
 
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