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As the title says, I’m getting a knocking sound that goes with the speed of the bike when coming to or leaving a full stop on the bike. I don’t know much about maintenance as I’m still learning but here are all the details:
•2013 Kawasaki Ninja 300. 7k miles
• noise, which sounds like a knock on wood or click, happens only after riding for about 5 minutes and only when coming to a complete stop or leaving a completr
•sound goes away after speeding up past 10-15 mph
•nothing feels loose or rattles
•chain and sprocket just replaced and tightened/lubed by mechanic
•can feel it in handlebars
•goes with speed of tires
•Doesn’t make sound when front tire is lifted off ground and hand spun
•no wiggle/give/movement when trying to move front tire to check for loose head bearing. Feels perfect.
•no other sound, resistance, wobbly feeling etc. that sound at that speed is literally the only symptom I’m having.

any help is appreciated guys. My bike is my only form of transportation right now
 

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What is the frequency of the knock/click: is this ONCE per ONE revolution of the wheel?

Could it be some debris/object/stone/imperfection/gouge on the front or back brake pads or brake rotor?
 

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did the sound start right after the new chain and sprocket install?
Even though it sounds like it's in the front, I would check the rear - specifically the chain.

Get the wheel up in the air and spin it. Check your chain slack at 4 positions. Chains and sprockets will sometimes wear unevenly, and the slack will change. You always find the tightest spot to set the slack.

An overly tight chain puts tension on the engine's countershaft, which can cause significant problems.

Just because a mechanic did the work doesn't guarantee it's right.

This video goes over adjustment -

 

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2017 here. Same issue. 2200 miles. oil and coolant levels good. Makes sound after 30 mins after summer riding. Worse when revs are low and accelerating. Sounds almost squeaky like plastic rubbing plastic but sounds internal. no loose fairing connections. gonna loosen chain for next ride but does not feel super tight.
 

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Check the right chain slack. 20 ∼ 30 mm (0.8 ∼ 1.2 in.)

Also check that the slack is the same at any position, otherwise the chain is stretched unevenly and should be replaced. Even though at 2200 miles is very unlikely.
 

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I was just experiencing this. Hearing a rattle of up front turned out to be my clutch lever assembly some how vibrating but also noticed this knock or clunk. the engine sounds smooth revved stationary. but like you when I take off from a line and shift I hear a clunk. So I just cleaned and adjusted chain slack and still heard it a little bit, maybe it needs to be even more loose? I thought it was making this noise because maybe the chain was too loose and knocking against the front sprockets on acceleration.

I feel like every how-to for adjusting chain slack measures from a different place. Some say measure from the tightest place then this gets posted on this forum https://www.kawasakininja300.com/attachments/chain-slack-png.82241/

I have 1inch of slack measured where that diagram says and don't notice any binding on my chain at 8500mi
 

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Just went back to the bike's manual. I think where I was getting confused is the wording of the suggestion:
"set the slack at the tightest spot."
Versus how the manual describes this:
"Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain is tightest. - Measure the vertical movement (chain slack) midway between the sprockets."

I was interpreting it as measuring the slack from the tightest point in the length of the chain, as opposed to the middle of the chain at the lowest point of hang/apex/trough of the chain slack curve. - so measuring closer to one sprocket or another rather than mid point.
 

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Just went back to the bike's manual. I think where I was getting confused is the wording of the suggestion:
"set the slack at the tightest spot."
Versus how the manual describes this:
"Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain is tightest. - Measure the vertical movement (chain slack) midway between the sprockets."

I was interpreting it as measuring the slack from the tightest point in the length of the chain, as opposed to the middle of the chain at the lowest point of hang/apex/trough of the chain slack curve. - so measuring closer to one sprocket or another rather than mid point.
Watch the video...
 
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