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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Still waiting for the pit bull stand and some other tools to come in next Wednesday). Until then I'm probably gonna put on another 100 miles. Should I just suck it up and sit the bike until I do the oil change or will it be OK if I change the oil at ~700 miles?
 

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It aint no biggie u can still keep riding just dont wait toooo lonnngg. I think an extra 100 miles wont hurt it
 

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You don't really need a center stand to do the oil change. Take off the bottom right side fairing, and everything is easily accessible. The only tool you're going to need is an oil filter wrench.
 

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^1 on the oil filter wrench. advanced auto had the perfect one.

i did my oil change without a stand. super easy
 

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You don't really need a center stand to do the oil change. Take off the bottom right side fairing, and everything is easily accessible. The only tool you're going to need is an oil filter wrench.
Or just stab it with the screw driver that comes with the bike.
 

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Or just stab it with the screw driver that comes with the bike.
I forgot about this method. How do you tighten the new filter though?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hmm interesting. Maybe I'll just go ahead and attempt the oil change w/o waiting for the stand. But I still gotta wait for the torque wrench and the oil filter wrench which should arrive tomorrow (I'm baffled at the fact that not all oil filters have a hole for screw drivers like the K&N filters do...).
 

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Hmm interesting. Maybe I'll just go ahead and attempt the oil change w/o waiting for the stand. But I still gotta wait for the torque wrench and the oil filter wrench which should arrive tomorrow (I'm baffled at the fact that not all oil filters have a hole for screw drivers like the K&N filters do...).
Really all you need is the tool's under the seat I have changed it 2 times now with just them.
 

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I am with fishdip on this one. You might be overcomplicating things. Take off the lower right fairing (and, this is only necessary to make things easy!) and then stab that filter with a screwdriver, take it off, drain the oil, replace the filter and re-fill with oil. Done. You shouldn't have to spend more than 30 minutes doing all of this, even if you have never done it before. Do a search in this forum for a simple how-to video someone else already posted. The whole video is less than 15 minutes!
 

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No need to remove the fairing...6" extension with a 3/8 drive, oil filter wrench/cap style, 1" socket and a 3/8 drive socket wrench. You can use a 1" socket or just plug straight into the cap as it will take a 3/8 driver.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PEN4/19902/N0066.oap?ck=Search_oil+filter+wrench_-1_3868&keyword=oil+filter+wrench

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GDW0/GM8253/N0748.oap?ck=Search_socket+u-joint!s!extension!s!adapter_-1_3868&keyword=socket+u-joint!s!extension!s!adapter

I picked up the 6" extension for 2 bucks at Orielly's in their bargain bin at checkout. No need to get a name brand.

This method works great and makes the easy oil change on these bikes even easier. No removal of nothin!
 

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Read up on oil changes of course...to get the most old oil out after the filter and drain plug are off, with the draing pan underneath, hold the bike upright. If you don't bump it or walk away, a 2 by 4 thickness is exactly the right thickness to put under the kickstand and still allow the bike to lean very slightly toward the stand. That's what I do. I do that too when I put the bike on the rear stand. It is so much easier that way. The bike should be warmed up...hot is better to get the old oil hot to get the most contaminants out before you remove the plug and filter, but watch your hands on the hot pipes. I would just buy a strap wrench filter remover, $7 or so. Your 1/2 inch socket ratchet fits right in the end and it that is a kinder way to remove the filter, plus you might need to tighten the filter a little more than hand tight...but not much more.
 

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So, yes, removing the fairing is NOT necessary, but it makes things a lot simpler. Plus, if you are like me, and want to use this opportunity to clean/wipe the pipes and the entire area inside the fairings, or if you happen to make a mess, removing the lower right one is the way to go.

I did my oil change yesterday. As others have suggested, I bought a filter wrench tool (bought the adjustable one) and used that to get the filter off. By removing the fairing, I was able to wipe down the entire oil pan area and ensure that not one drop of oil was left behind to smoke up. In fact, I actually made a bit of a mess by clumsily allowing the filter area to drip some oil on the pipes. If that happens to you, do not fear: use Simple Green to clean the area and all the oil will be gone. I used Simple Green to clean the exhaust pipes and oil pan area and then took my bike for a hard ride and not one whiff of smoke, and no drips.

I also went to full synthetic (Mobil 1 T4 Racing oil, Mobil 1 M-110 filter) and used the opportunity to thoroughly clean and wash the bike. All in all, I spent more than two hours doing all of this, but I am very OCD, so the wash took over an hour while I tried to reach every crevice to wipe/remove dust, dirt, grime, etc. Plus, I was taking it easy, drank two beers AND I am pretty sure I drained that sucker dry... I didn't just stand the bike upright, I leaned it quite a bit towards the right side, and the amount of oil that kept coming out was a lot. I would suggest doing that, if you are confident doing so and can do it safely.

Definitely do your own oil changes and get to know your machine. Paying someone to do it is not worth it. Even if you don't have a garage, this is an easy task. I did it in the parking lot of the building where I live. :eek: :D :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
w00t just did my first oil change...but I'm not sure if I did it right or not.

I removed the oil filter and with the bike tilted up-right by hand let the oil drain until nothing comes out. Then I put in 2.25qt (based on what's left in the 3rd bottle) of oil and rode the bike for a mile. Other than the burning smell from the oil drip on that pipe thing (below the oil filter), everything appears fine.

BUT reading that oil level thing...I can't see any oil level line :(
When I open the oil cap it looks bone dry in there.

Could I have put in too much oil? How can I tell? What happens if I put in too much oil and what should I do?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK I'm starting to really doubt the 2.3qt as recommended by the manual.

I put in a total of 2.65qt of Mobil-1 10W-40 oil and the level reads at exactly 1/2 between min/max. Here is how I measured it:

* Put bike on a pitbull rear stand
* Let it idle for 10 minutes to warm up (the oil level window goes empty)
* Shut off bike and oil starts to slow come back down and the oil level window starts to go up
* Let it cool for 5 minutes
* Oil level window reads 1/2 between min/max
* Let it cool for another 5 minutes
* Oil level window reads 1/2 between min/max

Nothing is leaking or anything. Let me know if I did anything wrong here. Judging from the looks of the oi level window everything looks fine to me.

I think the 2.3qt is probably MINIMUM required and will probably bring the oil level window up to the min line.

I would love to have some confirmation on whether anyone else had to put in more than 2.3qt of oil.

Thanks
 
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