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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought a bike, should I clean this chain or replace?

I spent about 5 seconds this morning cleaning a part of the chain and doing a before and after pic, imo if I do a deep cleaning and lubing it could be salvageable. What are some key indicators for replacing a chain and how do I know when you change out sprocket etc. The bike is a 2013 with 8.5k miles. Owner said he cleaned the chain over 3 weeks ago and its been raining lately so it could be mostly surface rust.

Should I completely clean the chain, lube it and then take photos and post it for a more accurate answer?


Thank you

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that rust doesn't look great...but how about any tight spots in the chain? When checking chain slack, and rotating the rear wheel around, do you have any really tight spots in the chain? I have a spot almost 2 inches long where it is almost impossible to bend or move the links (and starting to get some rust). Mine has ~14K miles..time for a new chain.

It's standard practice to replace your sprockets when replacing your chain, so you start out with new components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that rust doesn't look great...but how about any tight spots in the chain? When checking chain slack, and rotating the rear wheel around, do you have any really tight spots in the chain? I have a spot almost 2 inches long where it is almost impossible to bend or move the links (and starting to get some rust). Mine has ~14K miles..time for a new chain.

It's standard practice to replace your sprockets when replacing your chain, so you start out with new components.
The chain is really loose right now. I was going to see if I needed a new chain before tightening/aligning.

So, check if there are any stuck links and check chain slack difference between the loosest and tightest part of the chain when spinning the wheel? How many inches are acceptable?
 

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From the service manual:

Drive Chain Slack Inspection
NOTE
○Check the slack with the motorcycle setting on its sidestand.
○Clean the chain if it is dirty, and lubricate it if it appears
dry.
• Check the wheel alignment (see Wheel Alignment Inspection).
• Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain
is tightest.
• Measure the vertical movement (chain slack) [A] midway
between the sprockets.
If the chain slack exceeds the standard, adjust it.
Chain Slack
Standard: 20 ∼ 30 mm (0.8 ∼ 1.2 in.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I washed the whole bike, de-greased the chain, re-tightened the chain to about .8-1inch slack at the tightest section and re-lubricated. I believe I got all the surface rust off the chain. I'll post updated pictures in a few days. I didn't have enough time to test drive it but will in a few days. I also want to get an exact measurement of the tightest slack and the loosest slack in the chain and post the information.

Also is it normal for the top part of the chain to touch the chain guard near the smaller sprocket section of the chain guard?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
These are the pictures after I cleaned and lubed the chain. Should I replace or keep? I also included a picture which shows the condition of the O-rings.
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It looks good to me. You got nice pictures there!
The rear sprocket looks good too. Does it feel smooth? At 8.5k miles, if the bike was treated well, the chain should be fine. I replaced mine at 12k with some track riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think it feels smooth. Test drove it today and I don't hear the chain slapping any more 😂 it was super loose when I bought it. I also used the alignment tool to make sure the the chain is straight along the rear sprocket and the front sprocket.

Is the chain supposed to touch/glide over this plastic guide piece?
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