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Discussion Starter #1
After installing and torquing all back to factory specs the bike starts fine but after idling enough to warm up. or whatever.. the bike shuts off\slips out of gear. At times nearly launching bike off kickstand...

- With this said; if correctly trying to engage from N into 1st. the bike lunges forward as if the clutch dropped/fully engaged... with just a little push off the bike runs, shifts (normally not using slipper clutch itself but it works also) and go go gooooooes!!!

BUT yeah, it will not stop/idle correctly. Afraid to ride as is, need to fix it.

Any help would be a literal life saver as this was my daily driver...

ideas from my side, torque or springs might be off?
also, upon torquing the clutch bolts back in- the engine rotated a few times, is that enough to mess up timing?

Thanks and safe riding馃憡馃憡馃
 

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Are you proficient with adjusting your clutch cable and slack? Has this been adjusted to coincide with your clutch replacement? Do you have short pull levers? I'd bet that one or all of those are the issue.

A new clutch can bite a bit harder until you knock the edges off the new fibers, but your problem doesn't sound like that.

You said the bike shuts off and "slips out of gear" nearly launching off the kickstand. Do you mean shifts in to gear by itself? Bike popping in to gear by itself has nothing to do with the clutch.

No, you can't mess up timing by rotating the engine through the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you That! Soild answer and correct (I think) it was launching out of idle into 1st by itself, nearly dropping itself 馃槅 馃ぃ..

That is the issue. Cable..!

Picked up a new cable yesterday and ordered different levers.


My only concern is the amount of free play in the cable now that I've noticed it, an inch or more!! was riding yesterday w. A channel lock on the damn lever that had to be rotated 90掳 (clutch lever is setting straight up and positioned at far end of the clip-on) to get full disengagement... like wtf can a cable 馃檮 slack that much??
 

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No, 1 inch is way too much cable slack. Adjustments are explained in the vid and remember you can adjust it at the top and the bottom to get it dialed right in. Do as much as you can on the bottom adjustment, the top is kind of for minute adjustments here and there as the days go by. You're looking for about 1/8" slack. With 1" it's not fully disengaging the clutch. So when you pull the clutch it's almost as if you're not pulling the lever.

I realize it's not an N300 in the vid, but the adjustments are identical.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No, 1 inch is way too much cable slack. Adjustments are explained in the vid and remember you can adjust it at the top and the bottom to get it dialed right in. Do as much as you can on the bottom adjustment, the top is kind of for minute adjustments here and there as the days go by. You're looking for about 1/8" slack. With 1" it's not fully disengaging the clutch. So when you pull the clutch it's almost as if you're not pulling the lever.

I realize it's not an N300 in the vid, but the adjustments are identical.
Thank you SO much for the help...

This is more than will be fixed by simple lever swaps or standard cable slack adjustment... will keep trying and report back.

What i'm thinking is the catch/swing bolt mechanism that connects the engine to the clutch cable is some how off.

is that possible?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah just installed new cable and compared leanth and the oem didn't stretch.. sometime major went wrong.
Ugh, Guess the catching mechanism is off inside the engine?
 

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I think I know what could have happened.

In the clutch cover, there is that shaft that the clutch cable connects to. The way you remove it is by rotating it 180 degrees in the direction the cable would normally prevent it from moving. Normally, it will not slide out of the clutch cover. Take the clutch cover off and ensure this shaft is seated right, moving freely, and is not incorrectly installed 180 degrees off. To be clear, this is part number 13102 I am referring to, it is also where the clutch cable connects to the motorcycle on the other end from the lever. This is also the piece that pulls the clutch pack apart when you pull the lever.

Hope this helps. When I did my clutch swap at 30k, I remember opening it back up before running the bike to ensure I installed it correctly. This would lead to the inch of slack you mentioned as well if that shaft was installed wrong.

I hope this helps. Post a picture of your clutch cover if you are unsure, the problem should be visibly obvious.

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think I know what could have happened.

In the clutch cover, there is that shaft that the clutch cable connects to. The way you remove it is by rotating it 180 degrees in the direction the cable would normally prevent it from moving. Normally, it will not slide out of the clutch cover. Take the clutch cover off and ensure this shaft is seated right, moving freely, and is not incorrectly installed 180 degrees off. To be clear, this is part number 13102 I am referring to, it is also where the clutch cable connects to the motorcycle on the other end from the lever. This is also the piece that pulls the clutch pack apart when you pull the lever.

Hope this helps. When I did my clutch swap at 30k, I remember opening it back up before running the bike to ensure I installed it correctly. This would lead to the inch of slack you mentioned as well if that shaft was installed wrong.

I hope this helps. Post a picture of your clutch cover if you are unsure, the problem should be visibly obvious.

-Mike
thanks, that is what i think also... fk

lol, just wanted to CHECK before ripping her back open.

thanks you're the best!
safe riding...

will post again after i get her running so u know. ty peace
 
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