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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys me again, the one with the needing converting thread.

I got that demo yesterday, and it is a fantastic bike! I wanted a 600 for the acceleration but I reckon the 300 just about crawls into the required acceleration! Not too fussed with top speed, but the fact I saw it happily get to it's top end made me smile!

Just a few Q's about this bike

1.Stalling issue (lol). This bike DIDN'T have it, BUT, I did notice it had a 2.2k idle rev count. To me this is BLOODY HIGH, isn't the manuals idle rev count 1.3k? Did this bike maybe have the issue and they've been tampering to fix it?

2.Clutch biting point was at the very very very end of the clutch. I could literally put it in 1st gear and let go, and it didn't stall! The revs just dropped a bit and it burbled as if wanting to stall but not quite. Again is this a tactic being used to stopping the stall?

3.Surface rust and furring off connections was bad, I mean seriously seriously bad, for a brand new demo bike with only 100 miles on it. Looked like the bike had a rash. I am a 7 day commuter and I ride in winter, I do not have the time to keep to a daily cleaning regimen like fairy sun riders. If I get a Ninja 300 and only wash it once every 3-4 weeks is it going to rust? My current YZF R125 can handle this with only slight furring issues which are taken care of every 3-4 week clean, however the kawis furring was like it was growing fungus out of every connection!

Other than that, a cracking bike! I am just very worried about the stalling issue. I know all other bikes have this issue with fuel injection but the kawi 300 seems to have it more-so than any other bike that has this problem.

Every forum with a stalling issue has 5-6 members with the issue. This forums stalling issue thread has about 100 people with the issue, which statistically is very telling. Maybe biased by the fact that the Ninja 300 is more popular than the ever bland and soulless CBR250.
 

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1. the bike when cold will idle around 2 grand. let it sit for about 2 minutes & it will warm up fully & revs will drop. in the owners manual it shows how to chnage the idea screw. the manual is in the DIY thread in my signature below


2.the clutch point is very near the end of the clutch release, quite normal on this bike, once you master clutchless shifting you wont need to worry about it

3. yes some rust has been known to appear on the exhaust & its all covered under warranty

not every bike has the stalling issue, its just the luck of the draw.

as for the stalling issue , i did read a thread the other day on a honda 250 site that was over 100 pages long about the issue, & still not resolved
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1. the bike when cold will idle around 2 grand. let it sit for about 2 minutes & it will warm up fully & revs will drop. in the owners manual it shows how to chnage the idea screw. the manual is in the DIY thread in my signature below


2.the clutch point is very near the end of the clutch release, quite normal on this bike, once you master clutchless shifting you wont need to worry about it

3. yes some rust has been known to appear on the exhaust & its all covered under warranty

not every bike has the stalling issue, its just the luck of the draw.

as for the stalling issue , i did read a thread the other day on a honda 250 site that was over 100 pages long about the issue, & still not resolved
After 1 hour of thrashing it at 13k revs it was still at 2.2k idle....:eek: How do you warm this beast up?

Hmmm, not too keen on clutchless shifting. As my mechanic once said "Clutchless shifting doesn't hurt the transmission or engine if done absolutely perfectly at correct rev ranges." The issue is I have tried clutchless shifting before, again, and again, and again, and all I get is RRRRRRGGKGKGKGKGKGKGGGGKKKLANK KLANK with really nasty lurching, which never improves ever, I literally blip the throttle so fast and shift so fast but it still isn't perfect. I think I'll just use a clutch, they put em on there for a reason I guess.

Glad it is all covered under warranty! Though after 2 years this may become pricey....
 

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ok so if after 1 hours it still idles at 2 grand, then read the manual & find the screw to wind down the idle. the owners manual is in the DIY thread in my signature.

clutchless shifting for me is 2nd nature now, been doing it for years on all kinds of motorcycles
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Only a demo so not fussed turning the Idle down. It was more that I noticed the idle was high that I suspected this demo bike may have the stall problem and the dealers purposefully put it to 2.2k to alleviate it?
 

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Have read that CBR250 issue, Honda is stating they know nothing. At least Kawasaki are admitting they realise a problem exists.

I am definitely tempted to buy this bike it must be said. A few drawbacks but every bike has them.

I think I will play conservatively and start saving money for a big deposit in March 2014. Mainly because March 2014 I have to renew my bikes tax, MOT, and insurance, so I am hoping to get either a decent private sale or P/X sale plus £1000 savings for a good 75-80% deposit, and then just do a 1 year finance plan.

I probably could afford it outright if I saved a little longer, but hey, getting it on finance boosts my credit history and I am sure Kawi will be doing a 0% finance deal next spring, all 4 companies eventually do them every spring/summer. Even if they don't, £800 ish at 2-3% isn't too bad anyway.

I have indeed been mostly converted! I will demo a 600 some time soon (Any of the 4) just to see what the acceleration is like, but I genuinely think the 300 is just about enough for commuting/fun weekends. I hope I don't get bored with it like my 125. I guess logically even if I do get bored with it, all a 600+ will do is make it more likely to lose my license or life lol.
 

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The idle typically comes from the dealer/factory pretty high. It probably makes taking off in 1st gear more reliable. My idle is about 1.3k and I give it a good amount of throttle or I'd probably stall. You can hear the bike struggle if you start letting out the throttle when your idle is low, and no I'm not dumping the clutch. Probably wouldn't happen all the time, but I guarantee it would stall every so often coming out of first like that.
 

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3.Surface rust and furring off connections was bad, I mean seriously seriously bad, for a brand new demo bike with only 100 miles on it. Looked like the bike had a rash. I am a 7 day commuter and I ride in winter, I do not have the time to keep to a daily cleaning regimen like fairy sun riders. If I get a Ninja 300 and only wash it once every 3-4 weeks is it going to rust? My current YZF R125 can handle this with only slight furring issues which are taken care of every 3-4 week clean, however the kawis furring was like it was growing fungus out of every connection!
What do you mean by "furring"? And what connections had fungus growing out of them???

If the bike looks like $hit they probably leave it outside.
I ride every day rain or shine and it gets left outside for 8 hours a day give or take and mine looks brand new only washing it after riding in the rain.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What do you mean by "furring"? And what connections had fungus growing out of them???

If the bike looks like $hit they probably leave it outside.
I ride every day rain or shine and it gets left outside for 8 hours a day give or take and mine looks brand new only washing it after riding in the rain.

Furring is where salt is coming out of connections like hoses, and bolts. It is a white crystalline looking substance. On my bike it looks like tiny white dots that rub off or wash off. On the Ninja 300 I demo'd they were literally like diamond cyrtsals you see on peoples engagement rings - on every single connector or bit of metal. The rust was everywhere, again, anything metal.

The dealer is nowhere near the sea and I have no idea where they store it, but plenty of room to store it inside.

I am fairly confident it was in that condition due to being a demo bike, though none of the others were like it :(.

I will definitely wait until 2014 and see what happens. If nothing serious to report occurs then I am definitely going to buy one.

I'd love for Yamaha to make a nice V twin 3-400 sports, but Yamaha are taking too long and would charge obscene amounts too. Or go for an R6. I just need to figure out whether £5k is best spent on a brand new Ninja 300 or a 2nd hand R6
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oh I know it is preventable with using products. It's just that I am used to a bike that can handle winter with no protection products and furr a tiny bit.

The only thing stopping me buying the 300 is a 600. For £5k in my country I can buy a very sweet used R6 with <10k miles. However I just now need to demo a 600 to see how comfortable they are power wise. Track wise piss easy, but if it is an everyday riding bike I don't want anything too powerful where im constantly twitching my wrist a small bit to get big changes.

If the 600's are just too powerful for me The kawi 300 is mine March 2014 when I should have the money by then! It is a fantastic bike and loved every second of the hour demo I had!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
remember the throttle on a motorcycle is proportional, its not an on/off switch, want less power, turn the throttle less

I know but that's my point. I want my ride to be easy. If I am forced to move the throttle 1-3mm because 4mm causes a power wheelie I will constantly be scared of it, and moving my wrists tiny fractions will be uncomfortable and cramping. If a 600 is TOO responsive I will get a 300. If a 600 isn't too responsive, bye bye kawi 300.
 

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I have a brand new gsxr 600 with slip on exhaust, pcv, and tune. Even in first gear it doesn't come up. It wants to, but it hasn't yet. Now if I launched really hard it would. The inline 4 has no balls at low end.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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I know but that's my point. I want my ride to be easy. If I am forced to move the throttle 1-3mm because 4mm causes a power wheelie I will constantly be scared of it, and moving my wrists tiny fractions will be uncomfortable and cramping. If a 600 is TOO responsive I will get a 300. If a 600 isn't too responsive, bye bye kawi 300.

the 636 & set the power mode to low

http://www.kawasaki.com.au/motorcycles/supersport/2013-ninja-zx-6r-636

but either way, your still going to need to learn throttle control no matter what bike you ride
 

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the 636 & set the power mode to low

http://www.kawasaki.com.au/motorcycles/supersport/2013-ninja-zx-6r-636

but either way, your still going to need to learn throttle control no matter what bike you ride

Power mode on a 636? That sounds pretty neat I must say!

Oh I have throttle control, but the bigger cc, the less forgiving it is. I want a bike I can make mistakes on and not be 40km in a ditch somewhere from where I sneezed lol (aka an R1 lol).

The Ninja 300 was really pleasant in that it gave me plenty of acceleration, but not so much that if I made a mistake I would be having tarmac for mains and desert.
 

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The only time you might worry about throttle control provided it is working right...and throw in clutch control too, is on a new bike the first time or two you ride it. No bike is so touchy that you will fly off the back...unless of course you are sitting upright in first gear and accidently twist the throttle, but with that short Ninja 300 1st gear, the bike could get away from you if you reved it up high accidently and popped the clutch accidently. What you worry about is lack of throttle response much more than too much throttle. Even with my Zero S which in Sport mode delivers 68 ft. lbs of torque instantly from zero rpms too much torque is not a problem. All it does is enable you to get ahead of everyone off the line and that's a good thing. Still you wouldn't take out a super sport without first learning the basics of clutch and throttle control and once you have that down, no problem with any bike really. I wouldn't hop on a new super sport without first carefully checking the throttle response and friction zone of the clutch though, but that takes about 10 seconds.
 
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