[wendy]

I'm writing this because of the sheer amount of people asking the question.
Most people seem to decide on replacing the shift lever without trying to fix it first, but it can usually be done with minimal effort and or tools.
If your worried about aesthetics, how often do you or anyone you know crouch down and take a good hard look at how great your shift lever is? chances are no-one will notice a couple scratches especially when they're on the bottom!

First the removal: easy job that consists of one bolt, a nut, and separating the tie rod from the lever.
Tools> 6mm Allen wrench, 10mm box wrench for removal; and either 18mm and 19mm box end wrenches, or bench vice for bending your shift lever.

Loosen tie rod nut with 10mm wrench (counter-clockwise; The other end of the tie rod is threaded backwards so you can loosen both nuts and micro adjust the shift lever)

Then remove 6mm bolt, there are 2 washers on this bolt.

Turn the shift lever by hand(counter-clockwise), it shouldn't be tight after loosening the nut.

Box end wrench technique: Just push in opposite directions. The teeth on the wrenches should hold them in place while you bend it. Use a bench or you could bend it over a steel toe boot like I did.

Bench vice technique: Just tighten the vice and bend it back with your hand or you could combine the two techniques.

Clean off your bolt, shift lever sleeve and washers. Re-grease with your favorite waterproof grease (Bel-Ray ;D) and re-assemble with a drop of Loc-tite.

Hope this helps the masses, good luck!

Edit: Removing the lever ensures you don't break your rear set, it has happened to at least one forum member.

That's what I did! I bent it a few weeks back when trying to park it


~Wendy~

 

[SON1C]

Finally bent this back today but we took the whole assembly off didn't realize you could twist it off that joint

 

[Team_Green]

how do you get that little pivot joint off and back on?

 

[|_\ DVE /_|]

how do you get that little pivot joint off and back on?

Just leave it connected. You can bend it back without disconnecting it.

 

[AdamJH]

The pivot joints can be removed from the connecting rod by unscrewing them (one side is reverse threaded).
They are not sold as individual parts in the fiche, so I would assume they're not supposed to come apart from their mounted locations (it would be incredibly difficult to attach/detach them to/from anything seeing as how it's a greased bearing with no tool attachment surface).

 

[Nadds]

Really guys you need that lever to be strong and reliable , you spent thousands on a new bike right?, so bend the old one back fork out 20 smackos for a new one and keep the old fractured one in you kit for a spare

 

[GenCoupeNinja]

Anyone know the specs of the bolt that utilizes the Allen key? It fell out while riding

 

[AdamJH]

Really guys you need that lever to be strong and reliable , you spent thousands on a new bike right?, so bend the old one back fork out 20 smackos for a new one and keep the old fractured one in you kit for a spare

The lever is still very strong and reliable despite being bent, it's a complete waste of money to purchase a new one and possibly more money on shipping. I bought the "bargain bike" to save money, not shell it out carelessly.
Also, the lever is not "fractured" after bending. If it is, then you've bent it numerous times and probably need a whole new bike by then.

PS: it's a $40 part

 

[AdamJH]

Anyone know the specs of the bolt that utilizes the Allen key? It fell out while riding

Did you forget to Loctight it? Or was it factory error?

It's a specialty bolt, so you'll need to order a new one. Don't forget the Loctight (blue kind) next time, especially if you don't have a torque wrench. It's only like 2 bucks to secure hundreds of nuts & bolts.
http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com/oemparts/a/kaw/50edeab4f8700223001c8641/gear-change-mechanism
92154A, BOLT, 92154-1034

If it fell out because of factory error, call in that warranty!

 

[Markovitch]

I have replaced the shifter tie rod assembly, Part Number 39110, and adjusted the height of the shifter lever to accommodate my foot. The following YouTube videos were very helpful:
Gear Shift Lever Adjustment and MotoGp Conversion:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmtA9w_57Q

How to replace your shifter lever & tie-rod assembly on a 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250R:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW6hOAsoe8k

How to replace a shifter on a motorcycle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iNMt-_OOUc

How to Set Your Motorcycle Controls to Fit You
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twW0ClpyLKc

Sportbike Wrench-Adjusting Foot Controls:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOJZVRZ91EY

 

[OldSwede]

According to the Kawa manual, you shall remove shift lever and the pedal as a unit.
If you do that and getting the lever one spline wrong, you won't be able to upshift.
Check really careful on the line and dot indicating correct position.

 

[W8lkinUSA]

Resurrection to provide a tip.

I low sided several months ago on a 74°F night with cold tires on a hard left turn at 25+ mph. Noobie move, but better slow than faster...

With the bike propped up on the sidewalk leaning towards me, I used the special big wrench in the tool bag and spent 30+ minutes and lots of sweat straightening it so I could ride home instead of calling roadside assistance.

 

[sharkbaitong]

I'm writing this because of the sheer amount of people asking the question.
Most people seem to decide on replacing the shift lever without trying to fix it first, but it can usually be done with minimal effort and or tools.
If your worried about aesthetics, how often do you or anyone you know crouch down and take a good hard look at how great your shift lever is? chances are no-one will notice a couple scratches especially when they're on the bottom!

First the removal: easy job that consists of one bolt, a nut, and separating the tie rod from the lever.
Tools> 6mm Allen wrench, 10mm box wrench for removal; and either 18mm and 19mm box end wrenches, or bench vice for bending your shift lever.

Loosen tie rod nut with 10mm wrench (counter-clockwise; The other end of the tie rod is threaded backwards so you can loosen both nuts and micro adjust the shift lever)

Then remove 6mm bolt, there are 2 washers on this bolt.

Turn the shift lever by hand(counter-clockwise), it shouldn't be tight after loosening the nut.

Box end wrench technique: Just push in opposite directions. The teeth on the wrenches should hold them in place while you bend it. Use a bench or you could bend it over a steel toe boot like I did.

Bench vice technique: Just tighten the vice and bend it back with your hand or you could combine the two techniques.

Clean off your bolt, shift lever sleeve and washers. Re-grease with your favorite waterproof grease (Bel-Ray ;D) and re-assemble with a drop of Loc-tite.

Hope this helps the masses, good luck!

Edit: Removing the lever ensures you don't break your rear set, it has happened to at least one forum member.

how come I can't see the pics. Just bent my lever today sucks

 

[Muilisx]

Just get a vice grip or something, and bend it back out. That's what I had to do on my 300 when I bent mine a little.

 

[sharkbaitong]

got the lever off today. didn't have a 18mm box wrench so I tried to bend it back my hand.. haha not strong enough. I may be looking into buying a folding shift lever that folds up when it hits the ground so it won't bend. Has anyone seen any made for 300 or bought any?

 

[moc.2007]

Hi Guys, I dropped my bike and bent the shift lever from 0mph (either in neutral or 1st gear), also broke the rearset bracket when I tried to bend the lever back.

I had ordered the bracket for $85 and not sure if I could re-use the shifter or order a new one for peace of mind....

The real problem that concerns me right now is that when I start the bike (with the shifter lever and rearset taken out), I have to kick the kickstand up, hold in the clutch lever to start it. Now that the bike started, the "Neutral" light ISN'T on, I let go of the clutch lever completely and the bike won't move at all (feel like it's in neutral but the light doesn't come on).

Maybe that would be fixed after putting new shift lever in and play around with it? Or is that a serious problem now?

 

[Kaustav]

Strange issue. Since you only dropped the bike it is unlikely you have a serious problem. How did you break the rearset? Were you using a hammer to straighten the shifter?

Regards,
Kaustav

 

[Woomba]

If you are in the middle of nowhere and need to bend the shift lever back you can use the box wrench in the too kit to bend it back. In my case, my bike was knocked over by someone backing into it...they ran btw *shakes fist*.

To bend it back I took the box wrench and slipped the end of the shifter through the wrench ring. This creates an isolated lever with a decent sized handle for good leverage. This isolation will only stress the metal on either side of the ring so you can choose exactly where the bend will occur. My on the spot fix was good enough that I've never bothered to fix it further

 

[moc.2007]

Strange issue. Since you only dropped the bike it is unlikely you have a serious problem. How did you break the rearset? Were you using a hammer to straighten the shifter?

Regards,
Kaustav

Yea, the bike only had 2900 miles on it. I used my hands to bend it back and the shifter broke off where it is bolted onto the bracket. I really hope that it just go back to normal after installing new parts

 

[Kaustav]

Yea, the bike only had 2900 miles on it. I used my hands to bend it back and the shifter broke off where it is bolted onto the bracket. I really hope that it just go back to normal after installing new parts

You must be incredibly strong. I am honestly shocked that you broke the rearset with your bare hands.
It should be Ok after new parts.

Regards,
Kaustav