GSX-R Shock Install
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Got the shock today. Length was right, but forget it going together with the stock link arms. I got it in place by simply trimming the flap under the battery box. The upper bolt would need a pair of thin bushings as the GSXR uses a thinner bolt, no big deal. The lower clevis of the GSXR shock needed to be widened by about 1.5mm, again, easily done with a slow hand on the bench grinder. I bolted the thing in loosely and the two arms hit the lower spring area on the shock before they lined up. Darn it! Off by a good bit too.
Ah-ha!!!! I found out how to finish the shock install!!! .5" spacers on each side to move the dog bones out to clear the shock and 15/32" bolts that are 5" long. Found it on a thread at ninjette forums after a google search. I've already drilled the shock upper bushing and lower clevis, I'll be bolt shopping and hopefully bolting it back in over the next day or two.
Got it installed!
Lets see, drilled out the shock mount holes to 15/32", bought a pair of 120mm 12mm. fine thread bolts, 4- 9/16" nuts that are exactly 1/2" wide for use as dog bone spacers, 4 flat washers and it just about fell into place. I had to trim the plastic flap under the battery box, a trim with a long saw blade in the sawzall and no clearance issues at all for the reservoir and no rubbing!
The first test ride showed it was VERY firm. I spent about 45 seconds under the hood and took the rebound and hi speed comp from 1.5 to 3 turns out and it feels like the stock valving. Not bad for a minutes test ride and a second minute of tuning! I did a cold 20 minutes and it feels very good, it can only get better as I experiment with it, I haven't even touched the preload yet.
So, I'll play more with it and think the best thing besides all the adjustment will be just turning in some comp when I carry a passenger. We managed to bottom the stocker once in a G-out hit at 65 MPH. No harm and it was good enough but now I can tune for the extra weight.
Lets see, drilled out the shock mount holes to 15/32", bought a pair of 120mm 12mm. fine thread bolts, 4- 9/16" nuts that are exactly 1/2" wide for use as dog bone spacers, 4 flat washers and it just about fell into place. I had to trim the plastic flap under the battery box, a trim with a long saw blade in the sawzall and no clearance issues at all for the reservoir and no rubbing!
The first test ride showed it was VERY firm. I spent about 45 seconds under the hood and took the rebound and hi speed comp from 1.5 to 3 turns out and it feels like the stock valving. Not bad for a minutes test ride and a second minute of tuning! I did a cold 20 minutes and it feels very good, it can only get better as I experiment with it, I haven't even touched the preload yet.
So, I'll play more with it and think the best thing besides all the adjustment will be just turning in some comp when I carry a passenger. We managed to bottom the stocker once in a G-out hit at 65 MPH. No harm and it was good enough but now I can tune for the extra weight.
I copied & pasted my thread from another site to show this conversion. I've put well over 1000 miles on it now and it is awesome. The bike tracks better, it is firmer and more controlled. It is not more plush or gushy, as I prefer it to be firm and transmit alot of feel to me, I like to be connected to the road thru the bike.
It is completely adjustable, spring rates are available in a wide range if one needed, fully rebuildable and it can be revalved to suit the individual riders needs.
I am 210 and 6-01". The spring rate is within a tenth of a lb of the stock shock as I recall. It hit a good race sag number out of the box. I didn't have to adjust preload at all. I'll be trying more in the future...
The few spins of the adjusters I originally made have not been changed, though when the temps go up enough to get the tires sticky I'll experiment with them to really dial it in.
This mod leaves the forks feeling really inadequate, and they are! That is my next project in chassie tuning.
It is completely adjustable, spring rates are available in a wide range if one needed, fully rebuildable and it can be revalved to suit the individual riders needs.
I am 210 and 6-01". The spring rate is within a tenth of a lb of the stock shock as I recall. It hit a good race sag number out of the box. I didn't have to adjust preload at all. I'll be trying more in the future...
The few spins of the adjusters I originally made have not been changed, though when the temps go up enough to get the tires sticky I'll experiment with them to really dial it in.
This mod leaves the forks feeling really inadequate, and they are! That is my next project in chassie tuning.
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742 Posts
Here's a picture of mine.
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Exact same height. Eye to eye is identical. It is a no brainer, I sold my stock shock for $80 to a 250 guy. It is a better piece for him, if only slightly, and fresh, so he was happy. Why he didn't do this GSXR swap we may never know. Lots of riders believe that stock OEM is the only choice and the best one.
It paid for both of my shocks, the hardware and a couple of steamy cups of coffee so no complaints!
It paid for both of my shocks, the hardware and a couple of steamy cups of coffee so no complaints!
Na, but it is obvious. You identified the flap, right? Trim it at its base on the box. I was able to slide a long blade in a sawzall in from the side and trim it right off. Go slow, it is just plastic. A sharp knife/heat gun will probably do it in time too.
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2,942 Posts
would it be cleaner to notch around it or would that interfere with the adjustments? I cut cutting the entire flap off would just be easiest though haha..
I am picky for making things look factory... I can only imagine I will under cut it and file it down to a nice smooth edge hahha
I am picky for making things look factory... I can only imagine I will under cut it and file it down to a nice smooth edge hahha
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2,942 Posts
Gotcha, guess I just need to drop the shock into place and see whats up..
With the pod filter mod part of the undertail hangs out past the frame, so I will probably remove this section.. Its normally covered by the air box lid and the opposite side trim cover.
Wont know for sure until I get most of the bike back together though..
With the pod filter mod part of the undertail hangs out past the frame, so I will probably remove this section.. Its normally covered by the air box lid and the opposite side trim cover.
Wont know for sure until I get most of the bike back together though..
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