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Gearing

51793 Views 207 Replies 46 Participants Last post by  JTACKM, 
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I love the new wider ratio trans, much better than the old 250 in both spread and shift action precision. However, the gearing on the 300 is very low in first, and I was using second gear most of the time from a dead stop. Even with a passenger it was better than first which was more noise than action IMO.

On went a 2008-12 15t counter shaft sprocket, fit perfectly and suddenly I have a useable first gear! Nice mod, and I'm a guy who runs super short gears on everything I own. My Mustang has 4.56s and my KTM 950 SMR had a -2 front CS so I like my peppy gearing.

Another +, I think the speedo will be closer to actual speed now, stock it runs higher than actual speed. I'll verify that with a GPS ASAP but so far I'm convinced it is actually dong the speed it is reading.
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icon1k said:
thanks to old3? I posted about sprocket change long before him. sheesh old dudes get all the credit jj :)
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Check out the facts, Jack!

"I agree with earlier poster it should have had a 15 tooth sprocket
from the factory"

:D
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Nope.

Mine was done on the sidestand.

Ask if you need help.
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Rick said:
wilco. it's not like it's going to happen right today but when it gets here... it's something i'm looking forward to.

ps i don't have an impact gun or a torque wrench. are these essentials or can muscle power suffice?
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Depends on the muscles. Who opens the pickle jars at your house? Have them nearby, just in case... :D
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You might need a buddy to hold the rear brake down hard, engine in gear.
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What are the lock washers for?
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Yeah, you can just bend a different side but if you have it use it.
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Yes. Loosen the axel, loosen the adjusters, get the wheel fully forward and pull the chain off the rear sprocket AFTER you loosen the CS nut.

You are going to laugh at this after you finish.
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Come back if you need help, I think you'll be finished pretty easily though.
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No, it just makes your speedo correct and first gear gets a little longer, more useful. It drops RPM at every road speed but you won't really notice it as the speedo was off stock anyway.
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Rick said:
i'm just trying to do my homework. i know it's important to follow instructions exactly to the letter and then stop but it's also equally as easy to overthink those same instructions and get lost ;)

i was just doing my tool roundup and pre-prep so tomorrow when i awaken i can run to lowe's and get exactly what i need and get on with it. weather is supposed to be gorgeous tomorrow so the earlier i get it done and test-ridden the earlier i can experience the joys of a useable first gear.

you're in new jersey correct? my best friend lives in Mt. Laurel; if i'm ever up that way again, I'll be sure to PM you for a beer or something. your patience with me justifies that much at least =D
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What? I thought you'd be done by now! :eek: I'll look for you tomorrow, just sitting around rehabbing a knee injury. Mt Laurel isn't that close but if you come to NJ, be sure to PM me.
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Stock tools are good to use as sinker for flounder fishing.
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Glad you like it!

The 300 is a real peach of a motor, and it really shines in the midrange torque. With a tune and open pipe it revs to redline all the way with authority, but still has a really flat torque curve. If it was a "typical" 250/300 twin, it would need to rev high to make good power, and lower gearing is what gets you there despite low torque.

That's the reason the taller gears feel better all around, it gets to use the muscle in the mid more, not just blow thru it into the lack luster top end.
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jeffandrachel said:
And all I have left to do is similar to what I think you have already researched, the slip on is on with the view to knocking out the guts of that cat this weekend and then the K&N filter will be going in when that arrives along with the Fuel Moto Micro EFI tuner. Already mapped for the three different mods.

One quickie on the cat, did you cut at the front of the cat just after the bends of the headers or after the cat and did you hand saw or angle grinder cut?
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http://www.kawasakininja300.com/forum/12-ninja-300-appearance-modifications/719-what-header.html

Saw-z-all went thru it like butter, I'd use a big bandsaw if I had one handy. Pics in the thread above show a point of reference. It knocks out with minimal work.
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Rick said:
Also I left the bike in neutral was I not supposed to?

Sent from my LG-P999 using Motorcycle.com Free App
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Stick it in gear. If you have a heat gun, or hairdryer, blast it for a few minutes. I don't recall locktite but maybe there is some there. It won't hurt it to use some putting it back on but the locking washer will prevent loosening so if you don't have it don't sweat it.

You are turning it counter clockwise, right?
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Get it hot, the nut only if you can. Propane torch or the blow dryer.
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Another trick is to put a wooden rod across the swingarm, thru the wheel and let that hold it. Or steel, but pad it with rags to keep it from scratching anything.

Two people are better for this so one can fully press the brake.
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Did you put it in first gear too?
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Rick, ride it down to the service station closest to you and ask the mechanic to zap the nut. Tie the sensor out of the way. Then just snug it, ride it slowly home and get-er-done. I'm shocked you aren't finished already!
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Trying this alone is your problem I think. Block the wheel carefully so you don't damage anything and it should come off. Lefty loosey.
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Stick a broom handle in there and get it over with! Loosening the chain won't make a difference. The wheel has to stop turning so the force you are applying isn't lost as the sprocket turns.

Another trick might work, position the handle of the socket wrench so you can apply torque to it and get it at 9 O'clock, then wack it with a hammer. You have to zero out ant free motion, home made impact gun.
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