Gearing
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Top speed in each gear at the rev limiter;
1st=37 MPH
2nd=57
3rd=72
4th=88
5th=?
6th=?
I've confirmed the reading on the speedo now matched actual speed via GPS. I don't think there is much difference in RPM vs speedo reading except the speedo is actually correct with a +1 CS. ie, you weren't really going 70 MPH when it read 70 before.
1st=37 MPH
2nd=57
3rd=72
4th=88
5th=?
6th=?
I've confirmed the reading on the speedo now matched actual speed via GPS. I don't think there is much difference in RPM vs speedo reading except the speedo is actually correct with a +1 CS. ie, you weren't really going 70 MPH when it read 70 before.
8k RPM = 72 actual GPS confirmed MPH, 75 = about 8300 RPMs.
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I wonder what setup gets better fuel mileage.
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The +1 gear will def get better fuel mileage.
If your lowering the rpm, the engines not moving as fast, therefore not using as many combustion cycles.
less combustion cycles means less gas used.
however if your engine is working harder, then it will also use more fuel, but this setup by the reviews does nto seem to hurt take off or overall power at all, so acceleration should remain about the same amount of gas used if not a little less.
If your lowering the rpm, the engines not moving as fast, therefore not using as many combustion cycles.
less combustion cycles means less gas used.
however if your engine is working harder, then it will also use more fuel, but this setup by the reviews does nto seem to hurt take off or overall power at all, so acceleration should remain about the same amount of gas used if not a little less.
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If you want faster acceleration you will loose more gas than before at the same acceleration.. Now you peak acceleration will be slower but when you are cruising you will be using less gas for sure, plus you not have a higher top speed as well, who knows by how much yet though.. I dont have any local roads to test out top speed on haha..
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right, thats what i was saying lol
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It does seen like I shift out of first right away but I ride in a city with lots of stop and go. Do you guys notice it's any slower at the start? Do you have to feather the clutch more now?
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I dont know what anyone is saying, I am so tired this morning haha
It just makes first gear a little longer and more useful. You shouldn't have any trouble adjusting. It feels like the right gearing now, not too tall at all.
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Ok so the answer I was looking for was found today!!!
I installed my new sprocket, and gear position indicator.
Sprocket was JTF1539 15t
Installed nicely, had to tap it slightly, but not hard at all, VERY light.
works WONDERS!!! soooo much smoother, each gear is longer, no real loss in power or time to get up to speed at all, and is SMOOTHER!!! like butter!!! Jerkyness is all gone, downshifting coming to a stop, your normally be thrown forward a bit, now thats all but elimated, same with shifting out of first and all other gears, just wayyy smoother
LOVE IT!
reccomend it to anyone, first mod that should ever be done, dont knwo why I waited to do it.
I installed my new sprocket, and gear position indicator.
Sprocket was JTF1539 15t
Installed nicely, had to tap it slightly, but not hard at all, VERY light.
works WONDERS!!! soooo much smoother, each gear is longer, no real loss in power or time to get up to speed at all, and is SMOOTHER!!! like butter!!! Jerkyness is all gone, downshifting coming to a stop, your normally be thrown forward a bit, now thats all but elimated, same with shifting out of first and all other gears, just wayyy smoother
LOVE IT!
reccomend it to anyone, first mod that should ever be done, dont knwo why I waited to do it.
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595 Posts
Adjust chain to proper tension, tighten wheel. I gave the CS nut a few taps with the impact gun, you don't need to murder it and I'm sure there is a torque spec but i do alot of these and the lock washer gets bent over to retain it too. A large slip lock plier makes this easy, simply engage the lip and a flat on the opposite side of the nut and squeeze it flat along the nut using a new, fresh edge of the washer so it doesn't weaken and break off.
Reassemble the speedo sensor, recrimp the wire strap and the replace the shifter/cover.
Go ride it and tell me it isn't how the bike should be delivered!
The adjusting the chain part, is that something a noob should be doing? I really want to do this mod, but unbolting my tire sounds scary if i dont get it back on right. Am I reading to much into it?
Well, are you handy at all? You need to loosen the wheel and push it forward in the adjustment range to pop the chain off the rear and then front sprockets. It doesn't need to come all the way out, you just need to loosen the axel nut.
Chain adjustment is one of the most basic things you'll need to learn or you will have alot of down time and many$ spent at the mechanics.
Do you have a friend who works on their own bikes? If not, meet some!
Chain adjustment is one of the most basic things you'll need to learn or you will have alot of down time and many$ spent at the mechanics.
Do you have a friend who works on their own bikes? If not, meet some!
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934 Posts
Its really not hard, you just have to make sure each side is the same, so your tire is not crooked. There are markings on there you can line up. just make sure everything is tight before you start the bike. your gonna need stands do to this mod anyways, or a rope the the ceiling to jack the bike up, but if its stable, star the bike up after your done, put in in gear and run through the gears, make sure the tire tracks straight. But dont be thrown off, the mud on the tire will make it look like its not tracking straight sometimes.
The chain should have no more than 1 inch of play from the top to the bottom, i believe, i like mine around 3/4 inch play, i like it a bit tighter for some reason, maybe because the bikes new, and the chain my stretch, idk. If you pull it up, then back down, measure the distance from the top stroke to the bottom, I do it by eye. because its pretty darn hard to mess up the chain tightness. you'll know if its too tight or too lose by looking at it and feeling it.
Its not a hard mod to do, once you get started you'll realize how easy it is.
Now given that, I do not know how much mechanical expertise you have... So you have 2 options, try it, and deal with the consequences later if you fail, or bring it to a shop and pay for it to be done.
Worst you can do is have it half apart and not figure out how to get the gear on or whatever and send it to a shop after giving up lol
You learn through experience, if you don't give it a shot, your never gonan gain the confidence and experience to do you own work in the future.
=D cheers man! If you get into it and have questions, pm me or post here, i may be able to help, its still fresh in my mind.
The chain should have no more than 1 inch of play from the top to the bottom, i believe, i like mine around 3/4 inch play, i like it a bit tighter for some reason, maybe because the bikes new, and the chain my stretch, idk. If you pull it up, then back down, measure the distance from the top stroke to the bottom, I do it by eye. because its pretty darn hard to mess up the chain tightness. you'll know if its too tight or too lose by looking at it and feeling it.
Its not a hard mod to do, once you get started you'll realize how easy it is.
Now given that, I do not know how much mechanical expertise you have... So you have 2 options, try it, and deal with the consequences later if you fail, or bring it to a shop and pay for it to be done.
Worst you can do is have it half apart and not figure out how to get the gear on or whatever and send it to a shop after giving up lol
You learn through experience, if you don't give it a shot, your never gonan gain the confidence and experience to do you own work in the future.
=D cheers man! If you get into it and have questions, pm me or post here, i may be able to help, its still fresh in my mind.
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595 Posts
I'm by no means a mechanic or anything, but I'm not mechanically challenged either. so it looks like I just loosen the nut on the left side and remove the kotter pin and loosen the nut on the right side and move tire as needed. I see the little marker thing there as well to check and make sure each side is lined up right.
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kind of.
You take the cotter pin out of the rear tire bolt on the right. loosen the nut, you don't need to remove it. take off the rear 2 buts on both sides of the frame, that is the part that sets your chain tightness and how straight the wheel tracks. It looks liek 2 nuts on a bolt sticking out of the back. one nut locks the other in place. remove thsoe and the black plate that seals the rear of the frame.
you can now slide the tire forward a bit too loosen the chain off the sprocket.
To get to the sprocket, just take off the gear shifter entirely, you have to back that screw out completely, you'll see why. And mark where your shifter is with a marker or white out on the grooved section so when you reassemble it you know where your shifter was. and you dont feel wierd about shifting once your reassemble it and realise its moved lol
Take off the plastic pannel cover
Take off the metalcover in front of the sprocket.
Bend the tab back off the nut holding the sprocket on with a screwdriver, hold the rear wheel so it doesnt move, helps alot.
take an impact gun or a breaker bar to the bolt holding the sprocket in place, again, hod the tire so it doesnt go anywhere, or have a friend hold it for you.
I found that leaving the chain on and sliding the sprocket off is easier than trying to fish the heavy chain over the gear. also there isn't much slack to play with.
Put the new sprocket on the chain, then line up the sprocket with the grooves on the shaft, and slide it on, you'll need to tap it on lightly, use a small rod and a hammer while holding it. easier than it sounds.
reassemble everything, tighten your chain to the proper tension, make sure EVERYTHING is on there and tight, and the cotter pin is in the rear axle nut.
Enjoy!
If you want, set up a video camera, or take lots of photo's of how things looked before you took them off, so you know how things go back on. Better safe than sorry, learned that the hard way quite a few times lol
Not sure if I missed anything... but thats what i recall doing, I also had my fairings off becuse I was installing the gear shift indicator.. so i may be confusing what i did for that and what i did for the shifter. but i dont think any plastics have to come off to install the sprocket.
You take the cotter pin out of the rear tire bolt on the right. loosen the nut, you don't need to remove it. take off the rear 2 buts on both sides of the frame, that is the part that sets your chain tightness and how straight the wheel tracks. It looks liek 2 nuts on a bolt sticking out of the back. one nut locks the other in place. remove thsoe and the black plate that seals the rear of the frame.
you can now slide the tire forward a bit too loosen the chain off the sprocket.
To get to the sprocket, just take off the gear shifter entirely, you have to back that screw out completely, you'll see why. And mark where your shifter is with a marker or white out on the grooved section so when you reassemble it you know where your shifter was. and you dont feel wierd about shifting once your reassemble it and realise its moved lol
Take off the plastic pannel cover
Take off the metalcover in front of the sprocket.
Bend the tab back off the nut holding the sprocket on with a screwdriver, hold the rear wheel so it doesnt move, helps alot.
take an impact gun or a breaker bar to the bolt holding the sprocket in place, again, hod the tire so it doesnt go anywhere, or have a friend hold it for you.
I found that leaving the chain on and sliding the sprocket off is easier than trying to fish the heavy chain over the gear. also there isn't much slack to play with.
Put the new sprocket on the chain, then line up the sprocket with the grooves on the shaft, and slide it on, you'll need to tap it on lightly, use a small rod and a hammer while holding it. easier than it sounds.
reassemble everything, tighten your chain to the proper tension, make sure EVERYTHING is on there and tight, and the cotter pin is in the rear axle nut.
Enjoy!
If you want, set up a video camera, or take lots of photo's of how things looked before you took them off, so you know how things go back on. Better safe than sorry, learned that the hard way quite a few times lol
Not sure if I missed anything... but thats what i recall doing, I also had my fairings off becuse I was installing the gear shift indicator.. so i may be confusing what i did for that and what i did for the shifter. but i dont think any plastics have to come off to install the sprocket.
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595 Posts
thanks, i'll be sure to re-read when my sprocket gets here...
The chain adjustment procedure is the the stock manual. You just need to get the chain to its loosest point to drop it off the rear sprocket to give you room up front.
It is easier than it sounds and just post up for help if you need it.
Another tip to make the wheel easier to move is to compress the rear caliper with your knee to loosen the brake pads. Just be sure to go slow and then pump it up when you are finished or there will be no brake when you need it!
It is easier than it sounds and just post up for help if you need it.
Another tip to make the wheel easier to move is to compress the rear caliper with your knee to loosen the brake pads. Just be sure to go slow and then pump it up when you are finished or there will be no brake when you need it!
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why would you need to take the brake pads off???
And one more word of advice, is wear gloves unless you dont mind grease on your hands! lol
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