Posts by ghost3772
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934 Posts
Crap... I just ordered JT Sprockets JTF1539.15 15T Steel Front Sprocket....
Amazon said it would fit my bike, and that the one that the JT site told em to use. at least I think that how I interpreted it =(
Any ideas if this one'll work? or what the difference is?
Amazon said it would fit my bike, and that the one that the JT site told em to use. at least I think that how I interpreted it =(
Any ideas if this one'll work? or what the difference is?
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934 Posts
question guys... I am still confused... I ordered a JT1539 15t front sprocket. Manufacturer says it'll fit... on their web site... But on here it looks like everyone got the 565..?
the 565 is meant for the 650 engines far as i can tell. heres a list of applications.
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue
and heres the one for the 250
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/5201
and the 250r
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/942
so what did you install? did it fit? and am I wrong in the part I ordered before I start ripping my bike apart?
the 565 is meant for the 650 engines far as i can tell. heres a list of applications.
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue
and heres the one for the 250
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/5201
and the 250r
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/942
so what did you install? did it fit? and am I wrong in the part I ordered before I start ripping my bike apart?
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934 Posts
The +1 gear will def get better fuel mileage.
If your lowering the rpm, the engines not moving as fast, therefore not using as many combustion cycles.
less combustion cycles means less gas used.
however if your engine is working harder, then it will also use more fuel, but this setup by the reviews does nto seem to hurt take off or overall power at all, so acceleration should remain about the same amount of gas used if not a little less.
If your lowering the rpm, the engines not moving as fast, therefore not using as many combustion cycles.
less combustion cycles means less gas used.
however if your engine is working harder, then it will also use more fuel, but this setup by the reviews does nto seem to hurt take off or overall power at all, so acceleration should remain about the same amount of gas used if not a little less.
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934 Posts
right, thats what i was saying lol
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934 Posts
Ok so the answer I was looking for was found today!!!
I installed my new sprocket, and gear position indicator.
Sprocket was JTF1539 15t
Installed nicely, had to tap it slightly, but not hard at all, VERY light.
works WONDERS!!! soooo much smoother, each gear is longer, no real loss in power or time to get up to speed at all, and is SMOOTHER!!! like butter!!! Jerkyness is all gone, downshifting coming to a stop, your normally be thrown forward a bit, now thats all but elimated, same with shifting out of first and all other gears, just wayyy smoother
LOVE IT!
reccomend it to anyone, first mod that should ever be done, dont knwo why I waited to do it.
I installed my new sprocket, and gear position indicator.
Sprocket was JTF1539 15t
Installed nicely, had to tap it slightly, but not hard at all, VERY light.
works WONDERS!!! soooo much smoother, each gear is longer, no real loss in power or time to get up to speed at all, and is SMOOTHER!!! like butter!!! Jerkyness is all gone, downshifting coming to a stop, your normally be thrown forward a bit, now thats all but elimated, same with shifting out of first and all other gears, just wayyy smoother
LOVE IT!
reccomend it to anyone, first mod that should ever be done, dont knwo why I waited to do it.
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934 Posts
Its really not hard, you just have to make sure each side is the same, so your tire is not crooked. There are markings on there you can line up. just make sure everything is tight before you start the bike. your gonna need stands do to this mod anyways, or a rope the the ceiling to jack the bike up, but if its stable, star the bike up after your done, put in in gear and run through the gears, make sure the tire tracks straight. But dont be thrown off, the mud on the tire will make it look like its not tracking straight sometimes.
The chain should have no more than 1 inch of play from the top to the bottom, i believe, i like mine around 3/4 inch play, i like it a bit tighter for some reason, maybe because the bikes new, and the chain my stretch, idk. If you pull it up, then back down, measure the distance from the top stroke to the bottom, I do it by eye. because its pretty darn hard to mess up the chain tightness. you'll know if its too tight or too lose by looking at it and feeling it.
Its not a hard mod to do, once you get started you'll realize how easy it is.
Now given that, I do not know how much mechanical expertise you have... So you have 2 options, try it, and deal with the consequences later if you fail, or bring it to a shop and pay for it to be done.
Worst you can do is have it half apart and not figure out how to get the gear on or whatever and send it to a shop after giving up lol
You learn through experience, if you don't give it a shot, your never gonan gain the confidence and experience to do you own work in the future.
=D cheers man! If you get into it and have questions, pm me or post here, i may be able to help, its still fresh in my mind.
The chain should have no more than 1 inch of play from the top to the bottom, i believe, i like mine around 3/4 inch play, i like it a bit tighter for some reason, maybe because the bikes new, and the chain my stretch, idk. If you pull it up, then back down, measure the distance from the top stroke to the bottom, I do it by eye. because its pretty darn hard to mess up the chain tightness. you'll know if its too tight or too lose by looking at it and feeling it.
Its not a hard mod to do, once you get started you'll realize how easy it is.
Now given that, I do not know how much mechanical expertise you have... So you have 2 options, try it, and deal with the consequences later if you fail, or bring it to a shop and pay for it to be done.
Worst you can do is have it half apart and not figure out how to get the gear on or whatever and send it to a shop after giving up lol
You learn through experience, if you don't give it a shot, your never gonan gain the confidence and experience to do you own work in the future.
=D cheers man! If you get into it and have questions, pm me or post here, i may be able to help, its still fresh in my mind.
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934 Posts
kind of.
You take the cotter pin out of the rear tire bolt on the right. loosen the nut, you don't need to remove it. take off the rear 2 buts on both sides of the frame, that is the part that sets your chain tightness and how straight the wheel tracks. It looks liek 2 nuts on a bolt sticking out of the back. one nut locks the other in place. remove thsoe and the black plate that seals the rear of the frame.
you can now slide the tire forward a bit too loosen the chain off the sprocket.
To get to the sprocket, just take off the gear shifter entirely, you have to back that screw out completely, you'll see why. And mark where your shifter is with a marker or white out on the grooved section so when you reassemble it you know where your shifter was. and you dont feel wierd about shifting once your reassemble it and realise its moved lol
Take off the plastic pannel cover
Take off the metalcover in front of the sprocket.
Bend the tab back off the nut holding the sprocket on with a screwdriver, hold the rear wheel so it doesnt move, helps alot.
take an impact gun or a breaker bar to the bolt holding the sprocket in place, again, hod the tire so it doesnt go anywhere, or have a friend hold it for you.
I found that leaving the chain on and sliding the sprocket off is easier than trying to fish the heavy chain over the gear. also there isn't much slack to play with.
Put the new sprocket on the chain, then line up the sprocket with the grooves on the shaft, and slide it on, you'll need to tap it on lightly, use a small rod and a hammer while holding it. easier than it sounds.
reassemble everything, tighten your chain to the proper tension, make sure EVERYTHING is on there and tight, and the cotter pin is in the rear axle nut.
Enjoy!
If you want, set up a video camera, or take lots of photo's of how things looked before you took them off, so you know how things go back on. Better safe than sorry, learned that the hard way quite a few times lol
Not sure if I missed anything... but thats what i recall doing, I also had my fairings off becuse I was installing the gear shift indicator.. so i may be confusing what i did for that and what i did for the shifter. but i dont think any plastics have to come off to install the sprocket.
You take the cotter pin out of the rear tire bolt on the right. loosen the nut, you don't need to remove it. take off the rear 2 buts on both sides of the frame, that is the part that sets your chain tightness and how straight the wheel tracks. It looks liek 2 nuts on a bolt sticking out of the back. one nut locks the other in place. remove thsoe and the black plate that seals the rear of the frame.
you can now slide the tire forward a bit too loosen the chain off the sprocket.
To get to the sprocket, just take off the gear shifter entirely, you have to back that screw out completely, you'll see why. And mark where your shifter is with a marker or white out on the grooved section so when you reassemble it you know where your shifter was. and you dont feel wierd about shifting once your reassemble it and realise its moved lol
Take off the plastic pannel cover
Take off the metalcover in front of the sprocket.
Bend the tab back off the nut holding the sprocket on with a screwdriver, hold the rear wheel so it doesnt move, helps alot.
take an impact gun or a breaker bar to the bolt holding the sprocket in place, again, hod the tire so it doesnt go anywhere, or have a friend hold it for you.
I found that leaving the chain on and sliding the sprocket off is easier than trying to fish the heavy chain over the gear. also there isn't much slack to play with.
Put the new sprocket on the chain, then line up the sprocket with the grooves on the shaft, and slide it on, you'll need to tap it on lightly, use a small rod and a hammer while holding it. easier than it sounds.
reassemble everything, tighten your chain to the proper tension, make sure EVERYTHING is on there and tight, and the cotter pin is in the rear axle nut.
Enjoy!
If you want, set up a video camera, or take lots of photo's of how things looked before you took them off, so you know how things go back on. Better safe than sorry, learned that the hard way quite a few times lol
Not sure if I missed anything... but thats what i recall doing, I also had my fairings off becuse I was installing the gear shift indicator.. so i may be confusing what i did for that and what i did for the shifter. but i dont think any plastics have to come off to install the sprocket.
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934 Posts
why would you need to take the brake pads off???
And one more word of advice, is wear gloves unless you dont mind grease on your hands! lol
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934 Posts
its not tapping it on hard.. its just fitting snug, thats all, its not a BANG BANG!!! kind of tap..
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934 Posts
man why are you still posting on this forum???
remember what happens at 88.8 Mph???
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HUH? whats this even mean??? lol maybe this just went over my head.. i've had my bike up to 95 mph... no prob!!!
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