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Discussion Starter #1
Kinda tossed up on if I want to go full synthetic on the 300 or stay with the regular oil. I run full synthetic in the Scion which is why I ponder this but obviously this is a different world all together.

I priced it up and Kawasaki Full Synthetic is DOUBLE the cost per quart than the regular Kawasaki 10w-40.

Any opinions here?
 

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I quit running full synthetic in my cars, I dont keep them long enough to notice any benifits.. If engines have no problem making it to 100k with regular I decided to quit wasting my money haha...

But motorcycles is a different story.. With a high revving engine like this I want the best oil I can put in there so I do plan on running full synthetic :D

FYI, feel free NOT to use Kawasaki brand oil, just about everything else is a couple dollars cheaper than that, at least in my area..
 

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Ya, I kinda answered my own question after I posted. lol. :p

Gonna do full synthetic, I enjoy the full synthetic on my vehicles.

Hydro's celica is up to 150k with zero break downs and just regular maintenance.

We also have a toyota hunting truck banger that has 310k miles on it and starts up NO issues, also runs on full synthetic.

My scion is only up to 8560 miles so I cannot boast much on her besides the fact my xB is by far the most awesome vehicle I have owned, but she too, runs on full synthetic.

I swear by it.
 

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I use Rotella T6 full synthetic. It's 5W40 and has a JASO MA rating (meaning it is safe for motorcycles with wet clutches. Readily available at Walmart at $21 a gallon or less. Aprilia puts 5W40 full synthetic in the RSV and Tuono at the factory. My Vespa came with it in there too (the Italian brand AGIP, not Rotella T6). Lots of good synthetic oils out there though. I ride hard and we have very hot summers, so I need all the protection I can get. The advantages of synthetics you always hear is that they resist breakdown to heat better and last longer. Mobil, Shell, Castrol, Royal Purple, Amsoil, all put out synthetics for motorcycles. I don't know about the Kawa synthetic, but I'm sure it's good stuff too. I do my own oil changes obviously. I do use the OEM oil filters cause I get them as cheap or cheaper than Wix, Purolator, K&N, etc. when my local Kawa offers 50% discounts on parts. The move is toward synthetics. My Prius and Fiat both came with full synthetic oil. In the case of the Prius, the first oil change is at 10,000 miles. With a motorcycle though from what I've read, it's the filter that gives out first and may even become clogged early on, hence the early oil change. With the hard break-in the oil and filter get changed at 50 miles or less. That's what I did and put in the Rotella T6 at that time. Who know though? So much speculation except for the better characterisitics of synthetic compared to dino oil. That's not in dispute.
 

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I have 150k miles on my toyota camry... I run regular oil lol And only do routine maintenance. Engine wise. I have no touched it other than oil changes and spark pluggs and that stuff. Doesnt burn oil or leak... No loss of power at all, it doesnt feel liek an old engine. I see it lasting another 150k, and then i'll see then if it wants to go further haha but idk if i'll keep it that long.. its one **** f a car though! I use it liek atruck, literally, I tow duel axle trailers and stuff with it.

I ahve done a steering rack and a new catty on it and stuff like that, but engine wise. regular oil has done me no wrong =D Its 13 years old too.
 

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The way I know this bike will be wound, I would like to use full syn oil. I always heard that switching from dyno to syn will make your clutch slip though. Any truth to that? What is the process, just drain the dyno, then fill it with syn?
 

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if your clutch is slipping i think you will find you have more issues then just your oil, but everyone will point the finger at it cos that’s the easiest solution to find.

bike motorcycle oil for your motorcycle and car oil for your car and you will be just fine
 

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That is a fallacy. Regardless of dino or synthetic, one should simply look for oils that meet the JASO MA specification. This means the oil is compatible with wet clutches. There is nothing special to the procedure. Simply warm up the bike, remove the full cap, drain plug, and oil filter. Spin on a new filter, fill the engine with your oil of choice, and cap it. Run it for a bit to circulate the oil in to the dry filter, and then top it off again. Make sure the bike is level when doing the oil change or else you risk overfilling the crankcase.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ghost; I think it's fair to say oil type aside that Toyota/Scion is an AMAZING make of vehicle :p
 

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Semi Synthetic

I was keen as to ran full Synthetic in my 300 but was talked out of it by a mate who is a well known bike mechenic and races superbikes
he talked me into using lucus Semi Synthetic 10w40 its the same oil he uses in all his bikes.
He said that running full Synthetic in most bikes over time will make them Knocky and you get the same protection from semi Synthetic if you change the oil when recommended
but saying that everyone has there ideas
 

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As far as clutch slipping is concerned, the JASO MA rating means the oil is safe for wet clutches in motorcycles and will not cause slipping. It is a Japanese standard. Rotella T6 is JASO MA, along with many others. Like I said, many motorcycles use synthetic oil...come with it to begin with. Some oils only list API standards but will still be fine for a motorcycle. What oil CAN cause slippage? The high mileage oils that have the words "energy conserving" in the API circle on the back of the oil. It's the additives, not the oil itself apparently that causes wet clutch slippage.
 
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