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I finally hit the 1,000 mile mark and got me some mobil 1 4T synthetic oil. Specifically for sport bikes or so the company says. I have always switched my bikes over to the synthetic blend after the break in periods, don't know why, I think my uncle started me on it a while back when I was younger, he was a big race fan and had a couple muscle cars himself.
So can I get a couple of feedbacks, I know the oil battle will go on for centuries to come, but I'd like a few comments from you folks that have owned the bike for a few thousand miles, have you stayed dino or gone synth?
 

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I used to run synthetic in everything... I gave up on my cars, just not worth it for normal commuting in my opinion.

But I run full synthetic in my bikes only because they rev so high.. Either Amsoil or Mobile 1..

In my cars I just run the cheapest oil I can find, oil is oil in my opinion as long as it meets the typical standards... The filter is most important in my book.
 

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I'm doing a hard break-in so I plan on changing my oil at either 200 or 250 miles (111 miles atm), I've been thinking about dropping in fully synthetic oil when I do that oil change, any opinions? The guys at my dealership say 3,000 miles for fully synthetic, but I don't trust a thing they say (was buying some gloves since they give me a discount, and threw the question at them).

Planning on going with Mobil 1 SAE 10W-40 MX4T
 

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Doesn't matter what oil you choose. Just change it at the right interval every time without fail and your engine will be good. The synthetics can get more engine hours out them then conventional, but the cost trade-off usually makes the cheaper oils a better choice for cost savings.

Cheap oil every 3,000 miles and new factory filter = no worries.
 

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Doesn't matter what oil you choose. Just change it at the right interval every time without fail and your engine will be good. The synthetics can get more engine hours out them then conventional, but the cost trade-off usually makes the cheaper oils a better choice for cost savings.

Cheap oil every 3,000 miles and new factory filter = no worries.
I thought with this being a slipper clutch it does matter. No?

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I thought with this being a slipper clutch it does matter. No?

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Nope. Our bike uses a wet clutch (most bikes are, I think some BMWs aren't), so it uses oil from the transmission. You don't want to use oil that has special additives that reduce friction because it can make the clutch slip. Those type of oils are meant for cars though, so if you decide to use an oil that's not specifically designed for a motorcycle, just make sure it doesn't have any of those additives in it. Synthetic/non-synthetic/semi-synthetic isn't going to have any effect on the clutch.
 

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im at 3000 miles. at 2500 miles i put a bosch car filter on it 3323. i also made the switch to 5w40 rotella full synthetic.

1 gallon was 21 at my local walmart, filter was 11. next oilchange in 5000 miles

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-D3323-Distance-Performance-Filter/dp/B0034HNMQK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362522281&sr=1-2&keywords=bosch+3323
I know lots of guys are all for the Rotella and gone the life of the bike using nothing but it, I just cant buy into it personally, maybe someday..
 

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Bloody hell the price that you guys pay in the US for anything is ridiculous anyway, why wouldnt you run synthetic?

I dont wanna hear any of yous say that the price cant be justified..........21 dollars for 4 litres of Rotella synthetic?!?!?!? The cheapest for some synthetic oil around here would be well over 50 dollars. You guys are a bit spoilt with your prices me thinks, and need to move to Australia for a bit of a shock.

21 dollars for 4 litres of full synthetic...........:mad:
 

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Doesn't matter what oil you choose. Just change it at the right interval every time without fail and your engine will be good. The synthetics can get more engine hours out them then conventional, but the cost trade-off usually makes the cheaper oils a better choice for cost savings.

Cheap oil every 3,000 miles and new factory filter = no worries.
This is not true. It mater's a lot what oil you go with in regards to how you use the bike.
 

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I run motul ester synthetic in the bikes and either quaker 4x4 synthetic in my truck or royal purple
 

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On-going oil-change debate

. . .

Cheap oil every 3,000 miles and new factory filter = no worries.
"Cheap oil" for me being 2.6 quarts of the Kawi #K61021-202 at around $14 for the oil and $6 for the oil filter. Anytime I can perform my oil&filter change for $20, I'm doing it. . . every 2,500 miles. No need for snyth's here. (Buying oil by the case to save $ and to service two Ninjas).
 

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On-going oiling, take two

This is not true. It matter's a lot what oil you go with in regards to how you use the bike.
Also true. If you are going to ride aggressively, constant high-rev's, longer distance between changes - YES, you might just need synthetic. Through the years (quite a few), I have had no failures using the oil the manufacturer calls for, so I'll be using Kawasaki's 4 stroke oil as specified.
 

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Also true. If you are going to ride aggressively, constant high-rev's, longer distance between changes - YES, you might just need synthetic. Through the years (quite a few), I have had no failures using the oil the manufacturer calls for, so I'll be using Kawasaki's 4 stroke oil as specified.
Big difference in say kawa oil and cheap oil
 

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I have never run synthetics in any of my bikes or cars, high powered turbo RB30 vehicle included. I still run Valvoline XLD in that. I just change oil every 5000km as a maximum distance to ensure clean fresh oil.

One of the best well known people around my area for building hotty engines, swears by mineral oils and so do I frankly. The qualities of the oils are fantastic, and sure they do start to break down at certain temps and after certain periods of time, but you can buy 20 litres of mineral for the price of 4 litres of synthetic, change your oil 3 times as frequent and you have a better running and cleaner engine for it. And you still save cash.

But regardless of if you choose synthetic or mineral, they are both great and wont cause anything to wear prematurely. My only recommendation from building lots of motors is to pick an oil and stick with that oil, dont change it up every time you drop it out.
 
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