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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Idk if it's just me or what, but for the life of me I cannot find much in the way of aftermarket rear sets, or much of anything else for that matter, for my 300. About the only ones I have found are the Vortex and I would like to get some feedback on them or some others. I wasn't in a rush to do anything to my bike, that is until it became necessity after laying it down. :eek: Anything would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its always good to do a forum search for these types of things before making a new thread mate :D

I simply typed in Vortex to the search:

http://www.kawasakininja300.com/forum/12-ninja-300-appearance-modifications/860-vortex-rearsets.html

There is a bit of info here, I hope you find what your looking for!! ;)
I appreciate it boss. I did look a bit prior to posting, but I'm new to forums and got frustrated looking. I did find some stuff on them, but I wanted to be sure of the fact that I could use them on the 300. But thank you for the help.
 

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Vortex rear sets+brackets work for this bike but will require a new brake light actuator to be spliced in. Apparently, fabricating the metal tang to connect the spring is too much for after market companies to do. :)

I personally wouldn't be in a hurry to think that you will be laying the bike down. While statistically everyone crashes their bike at least once in their life, there are those who have been riding for 40+ years who's bikes and themselves have never been down. It's a known popular bike with good reviews all around. You can sleep safe knowing that there will be plenty of after market companies out there that will be doing what they can to profit off of this.

Safe riding and welcome to the forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Vortex rear sets+brackets work for this bike but will require a new brake light actuator to be spliced in. Apparently, fabricating the metal tang to connect the spring is too much for after market companies to do. :)

I personally wouldn't be in a hurry to think that you will be laying the bike down. While statistically everyone crashes their bike at least once in their life, there are those who have been riding for 40+ years who's bikes and themselves have never been down. It's a known popular bike with good reviews all around. You can sleep safe knowing that there will be plenty of after market companies out there that will be doing what they can to profit off of this.

Safe riding and welcome to the forums.
And now I'm officially lost... ;) If it's not too much trouble, could you pm me so that I could better understand the brake light actuator splicing? Thank you.
 

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For the brake light, Vortex makes a replacement banjo bolt with a pressure switch built into it. As for the Vortex rearsets themselves. I use them on both my 250 and my 300. They're expensive compared to some of the other brands out there, but worth every penny. I won't use any other brand. Get the Vortex rearsets. You won't be disappointed.

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Discussion Starter #8
For the brake light, Vortex makes a replacement banjo bolt with a pressure switch built into it. As for the Vortex rearsets themselves. I use them on both my 250 and my 300. They're expensive compared to some of the other brands out there, but worth every penny. I won't use any other brand. Get the Vortex rearsets. You won't be disappointed.

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I am definitely gonna go with them. I saw them in your thread about them and I like the way they look on yours. Thanks man.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Again, thanks all for the help. I have done some digging and I now understand what must be done to retain rear brake light functionality. The only thing that is still keeping me from ordering the in line pressure switch is the 10mm x 1.25 or 10mm x 1.00 thread pitch.
 

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For the brake light, Vortex makes a replacement banjo bolt with a pressure switch built into it. As for the Vortex rearsets themselves. I use them on both my 250 and my 300. They're expensive compared to some of the other brands out there, but worth every penny. I won't use any other brand. Get the Vortex rearsets. You won't be disappointed.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Any word on conflict with the kickstand loop and the vortex rear sets?

This has kept me away from them for now, is it an issue for most? Can it be avoided?

Also, do the rear sets allow for a greater or lesser lean angle? I.e. would they scrape before the stock ones would?
 

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Any word on conflict with the kickstand loop and the vortex rear sets?

This has kept me away from them for now, is it an issue for most? Can it be avoided?

Also, do the rear sets allow for a greater or lesser lean angle? I.e. would they scrape before the stock ones would?
They don't interfere with the kickstand switch at all. They're completely seperate circuits. The rearsets move the pegs up and back. So they allow more lean angle.
 

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They don't interfere with the kickstand switch at all. They're completely seperate circuits. The rearsets move the pegs up and back. So they allow more lean angle.
Thanks! But I meant the loop on the kickstand that you use to catch your foot on and lower it.

I heard some people had to grind it off since it was interfering with the shifter?
 

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Thanks! But I meant the loop on the kickstand that you use to catch your foot on and lower it.

I heard some people had to grind it off since it was interfering with the shifter?
I see. I didn't have any problem with that.
 

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Okay, so I have the Vortex rearsets and I've been riding around without a brake light for the rear brake pedal but I just bought the inline pressure switch from Vortex to fix that. Sadly, their instructions leave much to be desired. It simply says to cut the old switch off and splice this one in, but where am I supposed to splice it? There's just the banjo bolt and two wires that are covered almost the entire way up that have green tips looking like they go into something on the end. They don't look like crimpers, but rather plugs, just weird ones. I can provide pics if needed, I just need some help with this one!
 

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You've got to cut the stock break lines, and expose\strip enough of the wires to mix it with the banjo pretty switch lines. Soldering is the best connection, but I'm pretty sure I just twisted the wires together, and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Not the best solution, but it still seems to work.

Are the little plugs crushables? I think they were. I think you can twist the brake light lines enough so you can insert them into those metal things. Crush them to hold the wires together and wrap and then tuck out of the way. There is a little plastic clip down there that I used to organize the wires.
 
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