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2015 300 ABS
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68 Posts
I hate that kind of thing. Makes me think “jeez should I take the bolt back out and re-torque?” I did it once and it made the same racket so I guess it sounds like it’s normal and no need to replace. I didn’t remove the bolts but the threads on the bolt and in the nut looked perfectly fine
Yeah, I wouldn’t sweat it.
 

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Repairs from a low-side last summer on track. I actually got in there to find my front fork tubes got twisted in the clamps. I could see the stain from the galled aluminum clamp on the chrome fork tube. Nothing was bent, just tweaked. I got the fork tubes reinstalled and reset the upper and lower triple clamps so they are straight, and it looks good.

When I went down, my left bar hit the ground hard and got bent real hard. Forks, wheel, and frame never touched the ground, so there really wasn't a way for the forks to get actually bent.

Either way, fun stuff! I am probably going to try and reseat the motor in the mounts in case the frame has any tension in it, and I already got the back end off and made sure there was no damage. Should just be a case of needing new rearset and clip-on parts, a new clutch lever, new fluids in the bike, and some cheap fairings...

All in a day's work!
Oddly enough, my GSX-R just freaked out on the freeway yesterday on the way home. I was rolling into the throttle and instead of going, it bogged severely and FI light came on. Clutched in, and it went to idle, and then I turned the key off and coasted to a gas station. It started right back up with no FI light, and I was able to slowly ride home with no issues. I think an electrical plug on an injector came loose, but I'll have to investigate. Also all in a day's work! Garage full of bikes that need some love, haha.

-Mike
 

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Yeah I may just get a Monster Fairing set or something. The bike gets street driven most of its life, so I don't think I can quite do full track plastics. I think the Monster Fairings are like $500 a set, and I think I can live with that even if they fit a little dodgy or something. Won't feel as bad next track crash too lol.

Anyway yeah I got the front forks, wheel, brakes, and handlebars aligned. Looks good, forks pump smoothly, I think it's perfect. Put my rear wheel back on as well, cleaned those brakes also.

Once the funds are available, some new Woodcraft bits are on the docket, and I gotta find a lever, then I'll test drive. What fun!

-Mike
 

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2015 300 ABS
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Yeah I may just get a Monster Fairing set or something. The bike gets street driven most of its life, so I don't think I can quite do full track plastics. I think the Monster Fairings are like $500 a set, and I think I can live with that even if they fit a little dodgy or something. Won't feel as bad next track crash too lol.

Anyway yeah I got the front forks, wheel, brakes, and handlebars aligned. Looks good, forks pump smoothly, I think it's perfect. Put my rear wheel back on as well, cleaned those brakes also.

Once the funds are available, some new Woodcraft bits are on the docket, and I gotta find a lever, then I'll test drive. What fun!

-Mike
I see the fairings pop up now and again on FB Marketplace. Might be worth a look in your area.

Quick question: are you running aftermarket clipons?
 

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Indeed I am. Full Woodcraft suite on my 300, rearsets with the folding toe pegs and GP shift, standard bar length, no bar end sliders, vortex SB grips, and stock controls with Brembo 15RCS. Fantastic combination for the 300. Pretty pricey to get on there but man, so much more usable clearance at track lean angles, and more aggressive body position for sharper handling. Highly recommend.

-Mike
 

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Sounds like you’ve got it pretty hooked up. This bike I bought has the woodcraft clipons with 2.5” rise. I had purchased a motionpro Rev3 throttle kit to go with them (the throttle/cables that came on the bike were held together with duct tape and bubble gum!).

I’m finding it impossible to get the MP cables to route without a tremendous amount of binding. No matter which way I route them - still too tight. I find the design of the woodcraft risers to be in conflict with the Kawi top triple and brake MC. Hemmed in by some weird protrusions and angles. I really can’t position the bars, levers or grips exactly where I’d want them. Just wondering if you have any tricks that I’m missing. I might just need to settle with getting it “safe,” and not necessarily perfectly comfortable.

Sorry to highjack the thread jjmaine.
 

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I find the design of the woodcraft risers to be in conflict with the Kawi top triple and brake MC. Hemmed in by some weird protrusions and angles. I really can’t position the bars, levers or grips exactly where I’d want them. Just wondering if you have any tricks that I’m missing. I might just need to settle with getting it “safe,” and not necessarily perfectly comfortable.
You're right. The solution is not perfect. The woodcraft clip on's move the handles a bit forward and a bit down, but it feels not enough for me.
I have the WC clip on's with raisers, stock MC and stock throttle cables. Throttle cables don't get much in the way, but the brake line touches the cluster, the triple and the fairings (stock fairings on my bike) are on the way too.
I played with it until I found a compromise solution, but it's not the position that I'd like to have. I think to put them really low; you need to get rid of the stock cluster and cut the fairings. I saw more than one N300 like that.
Also, to get the clip on's a bit lower, I ended up rotating the levers a tad higher to raise the MC
 

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You're right. The solution is not perfect. The woodcraft clip on's move the handles a bit forward and a bit down, but it feels not enough for me.
I have the WC clip on's with raisers, stock MC and stock throttle cables. Throttle cables don't get much in the way, but the brake line touches the cluster, the triple and the fairings (stock fairings on my bike) are on the way too.
I played with it until I found a compromise solution, but it's not the position that I'd like to have. I think to put them really low; you need to get rid of the stock cluster and cut the fairings. I saw more than one N300 like that.
Also, to get the clip on's a bit lower, I ended up rotating the levers a tad higher to raise the MC
Sounds like it’s not just me. I thought I was possibly missing something obvious
I’m aware that every bike is different, and that there will always be compromises in setup. I’m just bummed that my experience has been ALL compromise, with very limited adjustability.

Since these expensive clipons were one of the few non-abused parts on this bike - I was sorta hoping for more luck :).

I have race fairings on the bike, and I don’t want the bars super low. So the position I’d prefer could be accommodated by the fairings, but the brake MC is already hitting clipon. This puts the levers at a higher position than I’d like. This wouldn’t bother me so much on the street - but for the track it’s not ideal. I’m only 5’10” - there would be zero chance of getting a decent arm-to-wrist geometry at the bars if I was any taller.

The only solution I can imagine is a set of zero-rise clipons that mount to the fork tubes above the triple, which would require changing the entire bike’s geometry. Not a viable solution.

I guess it’s time to accept and move on. Thanks for the feedback folks.
Scott
 
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