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2015 300 ABS
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Little late to the party - but I can confirm that leaving the back 2 bolts in and placing a jack under the front will allow you to loosen the front bolts. Actually, the rear bolts will hold it pretty well on their own.

But you’d need to lower the front end to fully remove the “triangle” mounts up front. IIRC, there may be rubber mounts on the inside and outside of the triangles??? I could be wrong about that.

I just came across some billet hard front mounts for the ex300 on Spears. Seems people like the more direct feel on the track. Might look into machining some next time I have the motor off for measurements. Curious if it would be a noticeable difference, or just a negligible change for the folks with deep pockets.
 

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Might work. But those triangle mounts need to come down quite a ways. I’m not sure if they will lower far enough with just the other part swung down. I was removing the whole engine every time - so I’m not positive.

Good luck. It’s not particularly difficult. Just annoying compared to other motors I’ve removed/installed.
 

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I can verify that the nuts and bolts on this bike snap and crackle more than any bike I’ve ever worked on. It was disconcerting at first. But after the first 472 times it happened, I have sorta become used to it :)

Well done checking the rubber mounts off the list. Why spend energy worrying about a possible issue when you can know for sure with very little effort. That’s why I’m only somewhat frustrated (but still frustrated!) with the issues I’ve had on this bike. I’ve now had my hands on almost every part of it. And by the time I’m done, I will rest assured that I was the one that tweaked, torqued and fixed the most crucial parts on the bike.
 

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There's nothing better than learning how to work on and fix your own bike. Then you know if something breaks you can fix it. No way I'm paying a shop to do something I can do at home. Nothing a few youtube vids and a quick chat on a forum can't fix.

Good to know about the crackling bolts. It made it hard to feel my torque wrench click but I got it. The nut would crack and then slip forward 1/4 turn. Jumped the hell out of me, I've never had that happen when tightening a bolt. Loosening I've had them crack loose with a loud snap.
I’m really not sure what the deal is. Because I cleaned all the bolts on a wire wheel before I reinstalled them. So there was no old loctite or gunk that should have caused the sounds. But it has been fairly constant on many bolts, of various sizes. Particularly the larger bolts. You should hear the internal bolts that cinch the head onto the jugs. That sound made me think I had cracked the block! :)
 

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I hate that kind of thing. Makes me think “jeez should I take the bolt back out and re-torque?” I did it once and it made the same racket so I guess it sounds like it’s normal and no need to replace. I didn’t remove the bolts but the threads on the bolt and in the nut looked perfectly fine
Yeah, I wouldn’t sweat it.
 

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Yeah I may just get a Monster Fairing set or something. The bike gets street driven most of its life, so I don't think I can quite do full track plastics. I think the Monster Fairings are like $500 a set, and I think I can live with that even if they fit a little dodgy or something. Won't feel as bad next track crash too lol.

Anyway yeah I got the front forks, wheel, brakes, and handlebars aligned. Looks good, forks pump smoothly, I think it's perfect. Put my rear wheel back on as well, cleaned those brakes also.

Once the funds are available, some new Woodcraft bits are on the docket, and I gotta find a lever, then I'll test drive. What fun!

-Mike
I see the fairings pop up now and again on FB Marketplace. Might be worth a look in your area.

Quick question: are you running aftermarket clipons?
 

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Sounds like you’ve got it pretty hooked up. This bike I bought has the woodcraft clipons with 2.5” rise. I had purchased a motionpro Rev3 throttle kit to go with them (the throttle/cables that came on the bike were held together with duct tape and bubble gum!).

I’m finding it impossible to get the MP cables to route without a tremendous amount of binding. No matter which way I route them - still too tight. I find the design of the woodcraft risers to be in conflict with the Kawi top triple and brake MC. Hemmed in by some weird protrusions and angles. I really can’t position the bars, levers or grips exactly where I’d want them. Just wondering if you have any tricks that I’m missing. I might just need to settle with getting it “safe,” and not necessarily perfectly comfortable.

Sorry to highjack the thread jjmaine.
 

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You're right. The solution is not perfect. The woodcraft clip on's move the handles a bit forward and a bit down, but it feels not enough for me.
I have the WC clip on's with raisers, stock MC and stock throttle cables. Throttle cables don't get much in the way, but the brake line touches the cluster, the triple and the fairings (stock fairings on my bike) are on the way too.
I played with it until I found a compromise solution, but it's not the position that I'd like to have. I think to put them really low; you need to get rid of the stock cluster and cut the fairings. I saw more than one N300 like that.
Also, to get the clip on's a bit lower, I ended up rotating the levers a tad higher to raise the MC
Sounds like it’s not just me. I thought I was possibly missing something obvious
I’m aware that every bike is different, and that there will always be compromises in setup. I’m just bummed that my experience has been ALL compromise, with very limited adjustability.

Since these expensive clipons were one of the few non-abused parts on this bike - I was sorta hoping for more luck :).

I have race fairings on the bike, and I don’t want the bars super low. So the position I’d prefer could be accommodated by the fairings, but the brake MC is already hitting clipon. This puts the levers at a higher position than I’d like. This wouldn’t bother me so much on the street - but for the track it’s not ideal. I’m only 5’10” - there would be zero chance of getting a decent arm-to-wrist geometry at the bars if I was any taller.

The only solution I can imagine is a set of zero-rise clipons that mount to the fork tubes above the triple, which would require changing the entire bike’s geometry. Not a viable solution.

I guess it’s time to accept and move on. Thanks for the feedback folks.
Scott
 
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