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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought the bike a few years ago from a guy who had just gotten it, laid it down on the left side and gave up on motorcycling. When I got it the left handlebar and shift pedal were bent so I replaced them. Now that I have the fairings off I notice that the front of the engine got tweaked toward the left in the rubber mounts.
I tried loosening that engine mount and tapping it back into alignment but it wouldn’t budge.
I wonder if I should just leave it as is )since I’ve put 6,000 miles on the bike and it doesn’t seem to be a problem) or taking the exhaust off so I can get a jack under the engine to loosen all of the engine bolts and re-tighten them in the sequence that the manual says.
Not sure if those rubber mounts are deformed and I’ll cause more issues by trying to fix it but the OCD in me thinks I can’t let it go because I know it isn’t as it should be lol.
Can that top mount be removed with the engine still in the bike so I can replace the dampers? If the entire engine has to come out then that will settle it for me. It can wait until it becomes an issue. What would you guys do?
Excuse any typo’s, the keyboard on my phone is tiny lol
Would it work to loosen all of the engine mount bolts without having a jack under the motor? I know it isn’t the right way to do it but I’m thinking that even if you bolt the motor with the engine supported, over time everything must fall down and rest on the bolts anyways?

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Sparky! I was hoping you would see this and comment as I recently saw your engine rebuild thread so I know you have experience taking the engine and installing it. Oh yes, the o-rings on the valve cover are dried out and also the cylinder head gasket has some cracks. I've ordered all new ones including the spark plug hole gaskets. Those gaskets under the valve cover bolts are $8 each lol. What a scam.
Do you think maybe my engine moved when I loosened the nut on that mount bolt? I never loosened the rear bolts. I tried getting my jack under there before I loosened it but couldn't get a good purchase with the exhaust on so it just wanted to move the entire bike on the stands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
From looking at my bike, it looks like it would be fairly easy to pop them top mounts off and replace those engine damper bushings? When I took the nut and large rubber/washer and looked at the end of the left bushing it was clear that the bottom is squished (from the weight of the engine). Also since many of the other rubber parts are dried on my bike.... Now would be the time for me to do it while it's apart and I've got plenty of time. And I know myself, it's going to eat at me all winter and I'll end up replacing them anyway lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did this same thing last winter with my dirtbike. By the time I was done I had replaced EVERY seal, bearing, wear item and the entire top end of the motor (piston, cam, cam chain, valves etc.). When I added everything up it made me sick lol I can't help myself, if I see something not quite right I'll have to fix it or get it fixed.
That's what I was thinking. Losen everything up and try to straighten it and if the mounts look okay I'll leave them for now.
FYI, the only place I could find new oem engine mounts for the Ninja 300 was Rocky Mtn. ATV. They had 4 in stock and I bought 2 of them. If you need some it may be worth getting them while you can as some new oem parts are getting harder to come by. Maybe some other place has them in stock but I couldn't find anywhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
And by the looks of it, if I leave both rear bolts tight and support the engine with a jack, I think I can unbolt the radiator and take those engine mounts right off and replace the dampers. I can let you know how it ends up going...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Will do. I can see how the little Ninja might get neglected if I had a big bike as well. Prices on used bikes in my area have been absurd the last year or two. I'd love to find an older 600 that needs some tlc for cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dang, I wish you could find a bike that cheap in my area. I'm sure the deals do come around but you have to be right on top of them before they sell.
Nice, get the 300 fixed up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It looks to me like I would be able to unbolt the radiator/fan and swing that out of the way (hanging by zip-ties) and then I could remove the mount that connects the engine to the triangle mounts? That should give the clearance to drop the triangle mounts out of the top of the frame? Of course I’ve never done it so I may be completely wrong. :)
Going to remove the exhaust today and both brake systems to disassemble/clean them.Still waiting on lots of stuff, gaskets etc.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was just getting ready to reply that I'll give it a try and see how it goes but I think I just got a better idea. Maybe I can just remove the mount off the engine and replace those dampers without taking the triangles off the bike. With the bolt removed and the inner mount gone, I think those dampers should tap out easy enough.
Anyway, first I'm going to try loosening all of the engine mount bolts and straighten the engine. If that works I'll probably wait until later to replace the dampers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So, after all of my waffling and faffing around, I loosend all of the engine mounts up and made sure the engine would wiggle happily in the frame with most of its weight resting on my jack. Tried fiddling with the top mount to see if it was out of line but it honestly seems fine and didn’t want to move even with the engine loose and floating. Like Sparky said, it very well could have came like that from the factory. I’m sure when they are assembling these they don’t stop and back up if something is a few mm’s off lol.
Anyway it seems happy so I torqued them all back up. My lower rear mount snapped and crackled as I torqued it so I might replace the bolt and nut just for peace of mind, they’re cheap. It snapped and crackle when I loosened it as well. Also the rubber dampers actually appear to be in fine shape so I’ll save the new ones I ordered until I need them.
It seems a useless waste of time but at least I can rest easy knowing I did what I could to make sure it was right. And the top rear engine bolt was not torqued correctly (not sure what it was but not even close to 51ft lbs.) so at the least I caught that.
Thanks everyone for the input!
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
There's nothing better than learning how to work on and fix your own bike. Then you know if something breaks you can fix it. No way I'm paying a shop to do something I can do at home. Nothing a few youtube vids and a quick chat on a forum can't fix.

Good to know about the crackling bolts. It made it hard to feel my torque wrench click but I got it. The nut would crack and then slip forward 1/4 turn. Jumped the hell out of me, I've never had that happen when tightening a bolt. Loosening I've had them crack loose with a loud snap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I hate that kind of thing. Makes me think “jeez should I take the bolt back out and re-torque?” I did it once and it made the same racket so I guess it sounds like it’s normal and no need to replace. I didn’t remove the bolts but the threads on the bolt and in the nut looked perfectly fine
 
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