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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been doing a lot of research on installing some green LEDs on my bike to make it glow, and could definitely use some help on working out a few issues.

1. Where is the easiest source of 12v that turns on and off with the bike?

2. I never use the pass function on my left bar, and want to use that switch to turn on and off the LED lights. Finding the wires for the switch isn't a problem but I have the issue that its a momentary switch and I need it to toggle on and off. I read that I can make a flip/flop circuit that I can wire it up to but have no idea how to do this.

If anyone can help me out on this, that would be great. I would prefer not to install any new switches even though it would be much easier which is why I am trying to utilize the unused pass switch.
 

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I don't really have much experience at all with the 300s wiring but maybe you could utilize the high beam switch, instead - if that makes it easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't really have much experience at all with the 300s wiring but maybe you could utilize the high beam switch, instead - if that makes it easier.
I thought about it, but I change between my high beams and regulars quite a bit and rock the button to give signals to the rider in front of me when we ride which is why I don't need the pass button for the same function.
 

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Most LED kits come with a button. I installed that button on the black plastic fairing that's in front of the gas tank.
 

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I have been doing a lot of research on installing some green LEDs on my bike to make it glow, and could definitely use some help on working out a few issues.

1. Where is the easiest source of 12v that turns on and off with the bike?

2. I never use the pass function on my left bar, and want to use that switch to turn on and off the LED lights. Finding the wires for the switch isn't a problem but I have the issue that its a momentary switch and I need it to toggle on and off. I read that I can make a flip/flop circuit that I can wire it up to but have no idea how to do this.

If anyone can help me out on this, that would be great. I would prefer not to install any new switches even though it would be much easier which is why I am trying to utilize the unused pass switch.
You could do it with electronics in a much smaller package, but you need to have electrical/soldering knowledge to do it. Here are some options which use relays.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=106633
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you, I am reading that thread now. I just checked with my multimeter and the lights draw 2amps if that matters here. I also realized I could just get one of these
and put it on the empty spot on my bars. The wires look a bit small for 2A current so I might need to rewire it since the switch is rated for 10A. I really would love to make it look as stock as possible though.

For the switched 12v lead should I just splice into an existing circuit like the low beam or license plate LED, or should I run a new circuit so I don't overload something?
 

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Any success?

I was reading your thread and I wanted to do the same thing on my 300. I don't want the lights to be able to turn on without the bike turning on, so hooking it up to the brights seems like a good idea. It is also nice not to have to add extra switches that makes the bike look ghetto. The only concern I am having is if it would draw too much amperage through the stock wires.
So any success?
 

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My lights have a wireless remote. I can imagine hooking up a latching relay or something to the passing button. I wouldn't connector it to a critical circuit like tail light or turn signal. Probably direct to battery. Might be useful since the 300 doesn't have flashers.
 

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Would you recommend just using the remote? The led glow kit comes with one, but I just fell uneasy not having a concrete part of the circuit that would not allow the circuit to engage while the bike is off.

Edit: I did just add a relay for my supertones, but I didn't have to splice any of the oem wires. I wouldn't want to harm a crucial wire on the bike.
 

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Would you recommend just using the remote? The led glow kit comes with one, but I just fell uneasy not having a concrete part of the circuit that would not allow the circuit to engage while the bike is off.
Unless you want the lights to automatically switch on and off with the bike all the time, the remote should be OK. I carry the remote in my jacket along with my garage remote.

You could always modify it later if you really want a switch. Oh, my controller does also have an on/off switch. I'm not sure if it defaults to off or not when it's switched.

What I really hate is how all the LED wires are twisted together with wire nuts. I've been trying to come up with some type of terminal strip or something to make it more convenient.
 

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I wired mine directly to battery with a waterproof switch. Mounted switch right by the left pass peg and works great. Low vis, cheap, and easy to install. For LEDs, switch and wires it cost me about $30 or so.
 
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when i had mine on my bike i did everything myself (I had a series of the led strips under my bike that were red) all together the cost breakdown was (this may help you)

LED Strips (2) $7
On/Off Switch $ .35
Extra Wire (I purchased about 2 feet) $ .20
I dont THINK I had to use resistors but if i did they were probably about $ .30

I had my switch under the passenger seat. Although if i were to do it again I would drill a hole on the black fairing that the dash sits on where I have my alarm LED and translogic dash button. To answer your first question, the best thing to wire it to (In my opinion) is the battery as long as you have an on/off switch, you may want it to turn on when you turn the key but I wouldn't just in case you ever get pulled over, you can probably talk your way out of ticket with the flick of a switch. To answer your second question, you should be able to rewire the passing light, but that would take a massive amount of labor (completely running the wiring across the bike to make it nice and soldering all of it to make it a quality job, as well as tearing apart the little box holding the indicators and everything). In the end if you ever try to sell the bike or something, then the buyer might not like it or want the passing light, plus it does come in handy when riding.

this was my setup (i forgot i had a picture on one of my threads haha)
 

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Thanks for all the replies. I ended up just buying the 10 piece LEDGLOW kit, and at the moment I don't mind the remote. I just enjoy the simplicity of the kit, and being able to change the colors for photos. You can get some really great looking shots at night with some long exposure times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I just saw this thread and realized it was my own.Here are some pics of the process I took and the finished pics!

Take Fairings off Bike:





The stock adhesive is shit, so I lined them with 3M autobody moulding tape. I also covered all connections and solder points with liquid tape:





I wired up the lights so each fairing piece has a seperate connection, so when I take stuff apart its as easy as disconnecting the one I want:





Forgot to show:
- I connected the main power connector to the batter on the negative terminal, and used an add-a-fuse for the positive. I then connected that into the spare 10A circuit that is attached to the side of the fuse box.
- All of this is turned on and off with this switch I bought from amazon
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Finished Pics:











During sunset, lights dont show as much in pic:








Pod filter:

 
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